SimonB

Aren't those Lexus sport wheels that everyone is always after magnesium? If you can get any that is.

Welcome from another of the Bournemouth posse! You need to get yourself along to the Fleet services meet on the 8th Feb, see the thread in the gatherings section p.s. Let's have some details of your new one then...

Could always get the ferry from Poole Tim. It's a four hour crossing though, and a longer drive the other end too. Plus last time I went on it I had to put up with a couple of "entertainers" doing Chris DeBurgh covers on a keyboard in the bar for two hours...

Seconded.

But the RLTC has flashable memory which is sensitive to this kind of thing whereas the ECU doesn't. As for the disconnected battery thing, the point of a jump start is to provide enough power from the donor car to start yours, not to charge the battery up enough to start your car on its own. Once it's running your car is generating enough power to charge your flat battery up. If you disconnected your battery you would then have to put enough charge in it to start your car, which would take ages.

I think people get a bit too paranoid about this. I can't see what the difference is between using a booster bettery and jump leads from another car. I've jumped my car three times now (having no other choice). The last time it did appear to scramble one of the RLTC settings, but I can't see how it can damage your ECU. It's fused after all. Just use some heavy duty leads (mine are Halfords heavy duty ones and can easily handle the current), and connect the negative lead on to the chassis rather than the -ve battery terminal directly like the instructions tell you.

If you're only taking one out, I would make it the first one, as it's the most restrictive and nearest the engine so likely to produce the most benefits. Mine hits just over 1.1bar of boost with just no.1 out. It passed it's MOT with only no.2 left in, so no worries there.

Buggered if I know mate...

If you fit one of Pete's convertors properly, the other advantage is that the progressive power steering will have the correct amount of assistance, which really makes the car feel a lot better. If your steering is a bit light that'll be the cause. It should be nicely weighted. It's pretty easy to fit as long as you can solder. Only tricky bit is connecting the wire in to the ECU loom (this is needed to delimit the car without mucking up the power steering), because it's awkward to get to. Oh, and if you have a facelift car the wires you have to connect are different colours. I think Pete's got facelift instructions too though if you ask him. I don't mind giving any of you local boys a hand if you need it either

Nah, that's someone else I think. You would have heard lust2luv rather than seen him - he's got an NA with a very very loud exhaust Here's the link to the big thread about it if you're really bored...

Well like Termy said, they messed up the club spaces, and they way they had the roads laid out you couldnt get to the club areas without queuing up for hours in the main queue for the dragstrip. There were far too many people trying to run, so as a result it took a good couple of hours to get in. Then because we were parked about 5 deep there was much shuffling of cars to let people at the back out etc. Highlight of the day was when lust2luv locked himself out of his car while demonstrating how to wind his windows up from outside with the keys in the ignition and drew a massive crowd while we all tried to break in with a coathanger.

Don't mind us Mr Deano, just some bad experiences at the Japanese Performance show this year - the organisation was terrible. Not that wer'e bitter and twisted about it of course...

Hey, don't forget the suberbly organised road layout and knowledgeable marshals that will direct you down the queue for the dragstrip to get to your display area, thus enabling you to experience the thrill and tension of the queue for an hour before being able to turn off and actually park up...

Just thought I'd update this with what it finally cost for my Blitz FMIC from Takakaira in Jap. Total was £891.15 all in. There's a thread in the members only section with details...

Finally getting round to putting my name down... 1. Supragal 2. Rob_B 3. leett 4. Trig (Oxy's Bitch ) 5. #1 Adam 6. HISUPE (Fars Biatch ) 7. paul_y3k 8. Oxygene (HISUPES biatch) 9. JamesArup 10. Millhouse + Re-upholstering Dudes 11. Green Supra (Millhouses Biatch) 12. Amazing grace 13. Scooter 14. reno 15. Batgirl 16. Mad Ad 17. Dangerous brain 18. John K (pencilled) 19. WSB2 (pencilled) 20. Mr T 21. Timwildman (keepin the Bournemouth massive real)(WTF) 22. Nick 23. Spyda 25. F A R (Trigs beyatch) 26. Ian C 27. Jive 28. Jamin 29. SimonB

How about an EManage? Probably not 10 people who want one though I suppose...

I'm sure there's a lot of people with both cats out, running 18psi or whatever that want some sort of safety net way of getting a bit more fuel at high boost past the end of the stock fuel map, as a stop gap until they upgrade further with bigger injectors/fuel computers etc with all the associated costs. What's the best way of doing this? Fuel pump alone, pump + FSE, or don't bother? The conclusion I'm coming too reading all this is that there's no substitute for getting on a rolling road and checking what's going on with the fueling, which I think is what I'll do after fitting my Walbro, FMIC & taking the 2nd cat out.

I drove back almost past the 'ring last year on my way back from my Europe trip, but I stopped off in Brussels so I'm not sure on the times. Bit longer than 4 hours I'd say. Most insurance includes cover in Europe these days, you just have to tell them when you're going. If you're in the AA, breakdown cover will cost you £34 for up to 24 days . RAC is much the same. In theory if you are driving at night you should have headlight convertors, but I drove 3000miles and never bothered. Well actually I did buy some, but couldn't figure out where to stick them . Also in theory in Germany + Beligium you are supposed to carry a first aid kit, warning triangle and fire extinguisher. Oh, and whatever you do DO NOT take a radar detector or anything that looks like one into France. They will literally rip your car to bits to remove it and confiscate it. Driving over there is so much better than here though. I just bought tunnel tickets to go to Le Mans this year - they were £113 return, but they were doing a special offer at the time which has now finished. If you join the points plus scheme you get 10% off (but it costs to join).

Now that is tempting...

Well, the Blitz Supra held the production car lap record there for a while, so I guess they were trying to cash in on the publicity. Everyone should know about the 'ring, or more specifically, the Nordschleife. It's one of the most famous circuits in the world. They held GPs there until it got too dangerous and they switched to the new circuit. It's 22km long, and probably the most demanding circuit ever. Most car manufacturers (pretty much all sports car manufacturers) test there, and you can drive round it yourself. There's talk of them imposing speed limits on the ring soon by the way, so everyone that hasn't driven it (including me!) should soon

Well it's short for Nurburgring, so Nur...

You're not going to get any more stopping power, after all the stock ones are easily ably to lock the wheels and cause the ABS to cut in, so you can't stop any faster than that. What you might get is better fade resistance as you say, but unless you're doing long sessions round a track the stock ones aren't going to fade IMHO.

I think the general concensus is that you can't do much better than the stock ones.

Don't hold back Dude, say what you mean... Anyway I don't like the F&F one at all, it looks like someone's got a drill and some fibreglass and started randomly drilling holes in it and sticking slats on. Way too fussy. Decisions decisions...

Could be spark plugs if you haven't put colder grade ones in.