-
Posts
3731 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Supra Articles
Gallery
Everything posted by SimonB
-
Vin plate numbers/ details+ white UK spec
SimonB replied to Whitesupraboy2's topic in mkiv Technical
Have you tried the Toyota bodyshop in New Milton (Balmer Lawn)? I wouldn't use them for the repair 'cause they're bloody expensive, but they would be able to get you a touch up thingy. -
Vin plate numbers/ details+ white UK spec
SimonB replied to Whitesupraboy2's topic in mkiv Technical
Bah, Tim beat me to it! -
Vin plate numbers/ details+ white UK spec
SimonB replied to Whitesupraboy2's topic in mkiv Technical
Yep, it's the New Zealand site. -
Ok, first post edited with stuff so far. We could do with some of the blanks filling in for sizes and offsets (the offsets for the Volk stuff came from the MVP website).
-
Ok, following the thread in chitchat asking for stuff to add to the resources bit of the site, I thought it would be a good idea to come up with a list of wheels with sizes, offsets, etc that are known to fit over UK brakes (i.e. someone has fitted them!). People are always saying it depends on the shape of the spokes not just the offset and that you need to try them or find someone that has. So, people with aftermarket alloys over UK brakes, post the details here... NOTE: Supra wheel fitment is as follows: PCD: 114.3mm Hub center bore size: 60mm Studs: 5 Wheel Size Offset ------------------------------------------------------- Standard 17" Toyota 17 x 8 front 50 17 x 9.5 rear 50 AME Modelart 18 x 9 48 18 x 10.5 50 Azev type LS 18 x 8.5 front 18 x 10 rear Azev type M 18 x 8.5 front 45 18 x 10 rear 45 BBS LM ? Blitz 03 18 x 9 front 18 x 10 rear Blitz Z1 technospeeds 18 x 9 front 41 18 x 10 rear 18 x 8 front 41 18 x 9 rear 45 (to be confirmed) 19 x 9 front 41 19 x 10 rear Blitz Z2 technospeeds 18 x 9 front 18 x 10 rear Highjoin 147s Kahn RS-S KEI Racing D1 18 x 8.5 front 18 x 9.5 rear Lexus GS300 sport 18 x 8.5 front 40 (AM 2813) 18 x 10 rear 40 a.k.a. TTE Grand Stand Longchamp XR4 17 x 8.5 front 32 17 x 9.5 rear 38 Racing Hart C4 18 x 8.5 front 18 x 10 rear Racing Hart CR 18 x 8.5 front 18 x 10 rear 19 x 8.5 front 19 x 10 rear Racing Hart CX 18 x 8.5 front 18 x 10 rear Speedline 1908's (magnesium) SSR Decolte Evolution Veilside Evolutions Volk AV3 18 x 9 front 45 18 x 10 rear 44 19 x 8.5 front 39 19 x 9.5 rear 39 Volk Gram Light 57 Pro 18 x 9 front 40 18 x 10 rear 48 Volk GTC (face 1) 18 x 9 front 42 18 x 10 rear 43 19 x 8.5 front 39 19 x 9.5 rear 34 Volk GTC (face 2) 19 x 8.5 front 43 19 x 9.5 rear 37 Volk GT7 18 x 9 front 43 18 x 10 rear 44 19 x 8.5 front 46 19 x 10 rear 40 Volk GT-N / GT-P 18 x 9 front 37 18 x 10 rear 43 Volk GTU 18 x 9 front 18 x 10 rear Volk IIIs 18 x 9 front 18 x 10 rear Volk LE37T 18 x 8.5 front 40 18 x 9.5 rear 40 Volk SE37A 18 x 8.5 front 33 or 38 18 x 9.5 rear 38 or 45 Volk SE37K 18 x 8.5 front 40 18 x 9.5 rear 40 Volk SF Challenge 18 x 9 front 34 18 x 10 rear 42 19 x 8.5 front 34 19 x 9.5 rear 40 Volk SF Winning 18 x 9 front 34 18 x 10 rear 42 19 x 8.5 front 38 19 x 9.5 rear 42 Volk TE37 17 x 9 front 40 17 x 10 rear 40 18 x 8.5 front 40 18 x 9.5 rear 40 19 x 8.5 front 43 19 x 9.5 rear 43 Wheel Mania Pacific 19 x ? ? 19 x ? ? Wheel Mania Vortex 18 x 8 front ? 18 x 9 rear ?
-
Yep, me too, on the 17:30 return!
-
Yeah, me too!
-
Can't you also do things like change the boost curve with rpm with an electronic controller? That's an advantage (I think!).
-
Well, I've got a Blitz one. Can't say I noticed any real difference from the stock one, but it was only a little bit more expensive and should last longer.
-
Well, it can only raise boost, not lower it below what it would otherwise be (much), so if you were boosting to 1.4bar without it you could well get the same boost with it switched on (unless you turn it up even higher). As for 0.9 BAR with no cats, that does sound low. Do you have a standard exhaust - that's pretty restrictive I believe ? Maybe your restrictor ring is a bit too small? I presume this was in a reasonably high gear, not just 1st and 2nd?
-
Well, I dunno about the rest, but I have a ETTC switch too, and mine also boosts like crazy when in TTC mode compared to sequential, so that sounds normal.
-
You do get charged duty and VAT on the postage too, that's how it works.
-
Don't forget you've got the back seats to put luggage on as well. I've managed luggage for two people for 3 weeks, plus Le Mans tents and other camping stuff (i.e. the all important beer fridge) no problem. In fact there was room left for two or three crates of beer on the way back too
-
Don't worry about it, it's perfectly normal. Just enjoy driving your car...
-
You could try asking Turbo Dynamics in Christchurch if they know of anyone. They don't fit stuff themselves, but they do hybrids etc, so may know of someone. There's always Triton by the airport who are very good for mechanical stuff, but I doubt they've done anything quite like that before. I think there's a place by Thruxton race circuit that has a rolling road and does mapping etc, but I don't know anything about them really.
-
S.E.M- March *FIRST POST WILL BE KEPT UP TO DATE*
SimonB replied to Supragal's topic in National Events
Don't think I'm going to make this one. Don't really want to stress out my clutch which is on its last legs. New one doesn't get put on until next Thursday! Might change my mind though, you never know... -
Have to say, the instructions that came with my Blitz were terrible. The pictures were photocopied, and you couldn't make them out at all. I used the Greddy instructions, they are pretty much the same apart from the location of the power steering cooler. Monkeymark has some photos on his website here.
-
The "in front of the rad tray" that goes between the front of the under engine tray and the bumper is the one I meant.
-
Well I'd go for the Blitz, because I have one! It's bigger than everything apart from the Greddy 4 row, and comes with all the bits you need, power steering cooler, smaller header tank, alu hard pipes etc. Only snags are the pipes don't come polished, so you have to do that if you want to, and I found it a bit of a sod to get the drivers side pipe through the hole in the wing and connected up.
-
"Track and Race Cars" is the one Chris means I think. I bought it this month, it's pretty good. I don't know if it's the same people that did C&CC, but it's pretty similar.
-
For you guys that have an aftermarket front bumper, what have you done about the front undertray? I can't see how you can keep it as it bolts to the bumper, have you had a custom one made or what?
-
If you want someone to do the fitting, then I'd recommend Triton motor services, who are on the industrial estate by the airport. They are a jap specialist, and very good. As for the clutch, you could try getting an upated one from the States from someone like MVP or from one of the dealers on here like Envy. It's a bit of a minefield as there's loads of different types. I think you should be able to get a RPS one or something for around £300 (maybe less from the States).
-
0.5 BAR on the first turbo sounds about right. Boost will depend on engine load, so you won't get so much if you floor it in second as if you floor it in 4th or 5th. With the engine warm or cold (makes no difference) and idling, you will get negative boost as the engine is sucking air in rather than it being forced in. Can't remember exactly what reading I get. Aftermarket gauges are usually pretty accurate I think. If you really have only 0.6 BAR at WOT in a high gear you probably have a boost leak somewhere in one of your hoses.
-
If you're talking about the built in boost gauge on the facelift (>96), then the gauge only goes up to about 0.5 BAR or so, so it will basically go off the scale at anything resembling full throttle. If you're talking about an aftermarket gauge that you can actually get some values off, stock boost with both turbos online is about 0.75 BAR.
-
The problem with that is that it will also result in the whole car seeing a converted signal. That will mean the speed sensitive power steering will be too light (it thinks you're going slower than you are so gives too much assistance). Also the air con fan will blow slightly too hard as you speed up, again because it thinks you are going slower than you are. Also, technically, the car not delimited by this, just limited to 180mph rather than 180kph . I would use one of Pete's convertors http://www.trlperformance.com, as they have a mph output that you wire up as above, plus a kph signal and a clamped kph signal for delimiting. That means if you wire it up correctly your steering, cruise control etc will work as intended (the steering is much better with the correct amount of assistance).