SimonB

I've posted this up before, but my original Jap handbook (for a facelift RZ) says 2.3 kg/cm2 all round, which is 33psi. I don't know why it should be different to everyone else's but I guess it is seeing as everyone else says 36psi is standard. Maybe the RZ is lighter? http://www.simons-house.freeserve.co.uk/tirepressures.jpg

Good stuff. We'll have to find something else to take the piss out of you for now you're not stuck at 112mph won't we? Shouldn't be too hard...

The South Bend pressure plate isn't too much stiffer than stock. I've got a south bend full kevlar sprung clutch, and RPS flywheel. The clutch is a 6 puck job, so you do get a bit of judder sometimes as it engages as some of the pucks grab before others if you see what I mean. It tends to do that more when it's hot, and if you don't use many revs when pulling away. Mostly it's fine though, the pedal pressure is pretty much exactly like stock. The amount of rattle I get at idle varies, sometimes it doesn't rattle at all, sometimes it rattles quite a lot. It seems to rattle more when hot though. I also get a rattle when I accelerate in a high gear at low revs which I find more annoying than the idle rattle, but It doesn't bother me too much and I much prefer the engine response with the lightened flywheel. This link has been posted before I think, and has some useful info on different clutches.

Ok, still none the wiser about this, can't think what could be the problem, but here's some links that might help. First of all, terminals on the ECU. Although that looks OK. Here's the position of the speed sensor:- Here's the wiring for the odo etc. And here is the ECU where the speed signal goes in. There is a second speed signal that goes into the ECU, but it is used by the auto transmission to figure out what gear to use. I suppose it's possible the ECU could be deciding the first speed signal is knackered and falling back on the second one? Seems unlikely though.

Yep, I'm in for the Bournemouth massif! Bournemouth Massif SimonB Dangerous Brain Since wsb has chickened out we'll have to call on super sub Tim!

It's the solar sensor for the air con. See this thread...

Hee hee, watched the big vid now, good stuff. Love that X5 bit. If you look when I come past at high speed at one point you can really see my front bumper bowing out at the bottom where I didn't have the front undertray on. Aerodynamics (of lack of) in action! Just waiting for the Kev/Rosie vid now then. Come on guys, get it sorted! I'm looking forward to that bit where we were trying to find some petrol and poor old CJ was getting all stressed . Oh and surely there's some Nurspec tunnel sound footage in there somewhere too .

Yeah, but he was slating Bomex USA's customer service not the actual product wasn't he? Think I must be the only person that doesn't like the Bomex front. Looks far too fussy for me.

Have you seen this Brian, it has a list of parts at the end...

Yep, on the rear.

Have a look here , it's the electrical manual (from the US so there may be some differences, but mostly the same). I think it has NA and TT stuff in so you should be able to see what the differences are.

Charming! I miss a couple of meets while the car's in the bodyshop and I'm yesterday's news . For some reason I've never actually been karting, so I'm bound to be crap.

You forgot about me Steve, I'm hurt now... Up for this, as long as it's a weekend that I'm not booked up already for 1. Steve W2 2. Dangerous Brain 3. The Real Brains 4. WSB2 w/end 5. SimonB w/end 6. Elliot - w/end or wd/eve 7. James (Elliot's mate) CBR600 - w/end or wd/eve

Well unless your clamps are different from mine, you just squeeze the tab bits together with a pair of pliers and wiggle the clamp off down the hose.

UK brakes are approx £170 for a pair of front disks from Toyota, £70 for the pads, don't know about jap ones though.

Right, that's it, I'm not racing you again the next time we go to the nurburgring!

Yeah, I had to do that with mine. Didn't make any brackets though, just used a few bits of aluminium pipe to make spacers for the top mounts with longer bolts and flipped the bottom bracket upside down and used another spacer.

If you've got to change all the discs and pads, would it not be worth upgrading to UK brakes at the same time?

Part number 51420-14010 according to the EPC, it's the no.2 undertray (assuming you're talking about the front one that attaches to the front bumper). I think they're around £100+VAT.

Still haven't got my car back from the bodyshop yet, so no show for me...

255 40 on the stock 17" wheels.

When I last changed mine they were £170 for a pair of front discs and £70 for the pads from Toyota (inc VAT). The right and left discs are not the same, and are slightly different prices for some reason. That was about 18 months ago. I'd get them from Toyota, be suprised if Halfords would have them.

The skirts were definitely options you could specify when you bought it, I guess the leather was too.

The ECU gets power all the time from a permanent live as well as a switched feed from the ignition, pulling the fuse cuts off the permanent feed.

Doesn't look like I can make this one, the Supe is in the bodyshop at the moment for nose + skirts fitting, and I don't think they'll have finished by the weekend . Somehow I don't think turning up in my Mum's 1.2 Clio which I'm borrowing will quite do it. Although I suppose at least wsb2 and DangerousBrain could overtake me then...:flame Dev