SimonB

You can hire helmets from race control, but they only have a few, so it's worth phoning them up and reserving one I reckon. If you think you might do more trackdays in the future just buy a bike helmet, but make sure it's BS6658 Type A approved (small blue label on the back). Mine cost about £80 IIRC. About the only place I've found that does track day insurance is Competition Car Insurance. It's not that cheap for a full day's cover, plus it only covers the "rolling chassis", so not your engine if you completely stuff it. Dunno how much for just a couple of sessions, I'm going to give them a ring sometime. They normally have various options depending on what you want the total covered to be and how big an excess you want. You can insure for less than the car's value though, so you can insure for max cover £6000 say and that's the max they will pay out. The no is 0115 941 5255 You could try phoning your insurance company but they are very unlikely to be any use.

As I understand it that is what happens. After all, the stock ECU isn't going to have any fuel maps after the fuel cut limit is it? With the Emanage you should be able to use it as a fuel cut remover and then add extra fuel using the injector map above 1 bar (provided they aren't at max duty cycle) I think.

I managed two adults, tents & camping gear (including small fridge!), luggage for two and a half weeks, laptop & power invertor (for satnav). Even had enough room for some beer on the way back!

Yes, I agree. On point 2 I would say almost certainly not. My view on warranties is that they are usually not worth the paper they're written on. I expect if it wasn't specifically excluded they would claim it was an item "subject to periodic replacement" or something. I'd want to read the small print very carefully and phone up and check first.

If you don't, you should do! June 27th gets my vote.

1. Yes, but only about 3 on the ring road around Paris. Whatever you do, don't take a speed camera detector with you - they are illegal in France, and if you get stopped and they see anything that looks suspicous they will take you car to bits in order to rip it out and confiscate it. 2. Not sure but I don't think so. They seem to use bike cops with speed guns. 3. I heard this, but to be honest I think it's only a few places, if at all. Some stretches you don't take a ticket at the beginning you just pay at the end anyway. It doesn't happed automatically anyway, it would have to be the police camped out at the toll booths. 4. You can get 98 octane anywhere in France. They don't have Optimax, it's called something else. All the pumps have 95 Sans Plomb and 98 Sans Plomb (unleaded) written on. Probably best not to go too mad, they can arrest you and sling you in jail if you're going more than 125mph for having an offensive weapon or something. There are some great N roads in France too. Big long straights with three lanes (i.e. shared overtaking lane). There are 30mph limits through the towns (which you should stick to because that's where any speed traps will be) and national limit on the rest. Really great driving roads as long as you have someone in the passenger seat to say "yes" or "no" to overtaking opportunities...

Blitz LM too, that's what I've got.

Me neither, but you always seem to get the same old myths about imports such as: They all have small brakes You never get any service history etc The parts are more expensive and you can't get them anywhere They've all been stolen and shipped via Dubai or somewhere! You can't check the milage They're less powerful than the UKs etc etc. None of this is true, if you have a deregistration certificate from Japan etc they are less likely to be dodgy than any UK car thanks to the extra checks that go on in Japan before export and by the DVLA etc before they register it (i.e. with Interpol). As far as service history goes, a set of dealer stamps in a book is enough for me.

Don't mind where we meet, as long as it doesn't have any big speed bumps to take my new front off!

13th June is the weekend of the Le Mans 24hr, so you might find a few people going to that (like me )

Hi. First of all, there is no comparison between the FTO and a Supra (even an NA ). The Supra is a far faster car in all ways. You will almost certainly find that the insurance on a NA will be quite a lot more than a UK spec TT, because they are all imports and the insurance companies cane you for some reason. Get a few quotes from some of the specialists, and don't assume a TT will be hugely more expensive to insure. I get around 19mpg from everyday driving with a TT. NA is not that much more economical, but doesn't need Optimax so you save a bit there. More like £200 if you shop around and go to somewhere like Micheldever (that's for Goodyear F1s on the 17s). Oil change is easy enough apart from the fact that the filter is a sod to get to. There's www.mkiv.com, the USA site. Also www.mkiv.co.nz has info on the specs and so on.

Volk Challenges aren't they ? I really like those too.

Actually, only the VVTI has an electronic throttle. The traction control works by a motor controlling an extra butterfly in the throttle body, in front of the main throttle one.

Worth stating again that ALL facelift Jspec RZ have big brakes & wheels, plus they were optional on other models. The facelift RZ also has Recaro seats as standard, which are far superior to the normal seat (despite having a really horrible pattern fabric . It's also not true to say that you only get a service history etc with a UK car. I have a full service history (Ok, so it's in Japanese!). The main reason I bought a Jspec was because I wanted a facelift car. As Tim said, if you want the VVTI engine you also have to buy a Jspec.

You'd be suprised how close the running costs are. The NA isn't that much more economical, and maintenance costs should be the same. There's no more reason for turbos to go wrong than any other mechanical part - they were designed to last the lifetime of the car if looked after properly. Of course if you up the boost you'll stress them out more. From what NA owners say the insurance isn't that much cheaper either - get some quotes from some of the specialists.

Yeah, you just need to browse Supraforums to see how annoying sig pictures can be!

Cheers Syed, guess it's not as awkward as it first looks. Just got to find the time now...

Well I reused the shims etc when I did mine. Very easy job (as long as the pins haven't corroded). Just put some copper grease on the back of the pads/shims before putting the new ones in to stop them squeeling.

I would think that would be due to the zero viscosity rather than the fact that it's synthetic. You can get fully synth oils with a higher viscosity than that (i.e. Valvoline 5w50).

Sounds dodgy to me. Why would Automatic Transmission Fluid be suitable for a manual? I changed mine about a year ago and got V160 no problem. Well actually it was a problem because Toyota ordered the wrong stuff, couldn't find it on their computer and I had to tell them the part number, but that's pretty normal! Don't know much about oils though, so he could be right.

Well, if it's the same as the TT, this will help you. It's actually from Pete Betts fuel cut controller instructions:- Non-VVTI http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/TRL/vfcc_non-vvti.jpg VVTI http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/TRL/vfcc_vvti.jpg I expect it's the same for the NA (don't know for sure though).

How easy is it to remove the throttle body? I've got a trac removal jobby to fit. Had a quick look this afternoon and it looks real awkward to get to the bolts that hold it on at the bottom. Can't even see the one on the right! Or is it just a case of taking the IC pipe and battery out to get a bit more room?

Yeah, but those looked like genuine ones, nobody would go to the trouble of putting a fake Veilside stamp on would they? Good buy if so, although I suppose it depends what they call "some small cracks"...

Hi there Keith, another member for the Bournemouth massif! There's a few of us on here, me, Tim Wildman, DangerousBrain (& wife), WhiteSupraBoy2, SteveW2, plus a couple I haven't met yet, MizTheWiz, SupraChris, SuparRob. We're slowly taking over Titan haven't got a great rep over here, they seem to be associated with SupraStore, who have a terrible reputation for service over here. If I was buying stuff from the States, I'd go with MVP every time, top service, Dusty is a great guy, plus you can pay by PayPal which is easier and cheaper.

I think there's a rule in the SVA about how close your fogs are to the rear lights, so doing the fog conversion thing won't be good enough for the SVA. You could change the ODO reading, but most people leave it and compensate by subtracting the difference. As long as you have some record of the reading before conversion this looks better to future buyers than fiddling the ODO. After all, you could set it to anything.