SimonB

Yes, the standard spacesaver will fit. Don't know about the BBSs, sorry. They're not on the list of wheels known to fit, but that just means that nobody has got any and bigger brakes.

The facelift RZ has big brakes and wheels, Recaro seats and is manual only. The facelift RZ-S does not (unless they have been added).

Could be the anti-squeel shims or springy bit that holds the pads to stop them moving is on upside down or something I guess.

Has anyone heard anything about the photos they were supposedly taking of people on the track at Japfest? They were supposed to be taking photos and sending the proofs out I thought? Or is it just the fact that I have no front plate so they can't tell who I am?

I wouldn't go that far...

I'm on form at the moment I tell you, with this thread and the suspension one as well

There's two E01s, the "E01" is a stand-alone programmer thingy for the EManage. The "Profec E01" is a boost controller that can also be used as a programmer for the EManage.

If the brakes are capable of locking the wheels (which Jspec and UK are) then both are going to stop you in the same distance (provided you press hard enough of course). The bigger brakes will just allow you to do this more times before overheating and fading. I've never had brake fade with UK brakes, and I know other people have with Jspec ones. The other factor is pedal feel, I've never driven a Supra with small brakes so I don't know how they compare that way.

Interesting Ian. I'm not at the stage of wanting/needing one just yet anyway, it's on my list for next year . If it can log an extra input that just makes it an even better little gizmo.

It's in issue 38, March 04. It's got a red R32 Skyline on the front.

How have you been tuning it, using a wide-band I presume? Do you drive around and log the data and then fiddle with the settings and repeat?

When you brake, the front of the car dips, which uses up some of the travel. Same when you're cornering for the outside wheels. With a lowered car there's not much left to soak up bumps. Aftermarket suspension isn't designed for UK roads. Toyota would have spent a huge amount of time and effort perfecting the spring rates, rebound rates etc etc. You can't just expect to come along with an aftermarket set of shocks and springs and do much better than that. If you just bung stiff dampers and springs on you'll ruin the handling IMO. On the track it's very different of course. There was an interesting article in Jap performance mag a couple of months ago about suspension compliancy.

You might have a more rigid car, but that's not really what you want on a road. You need compliancy in suspension on the road to avoid it skipping over bumps as it runs out of travel and hits the bump stops. The jap spec suspension is already on the hard side for our bumpy roads. If you want to reduce body roll then anti-roll bars are the things to go for I would think.

Errrr, good question! Shocks are Bilstein, but that's about all I know...

How about stock? I think you'll be doing well to beat the stock setup with the alignment set correctly for fast road use.

I've got one for the list:- charcoal cannister Here's my crack at a FMIC: Name: Front Mounted InterCooler Also known as: FMIC What is it? A turbocharger works by compressing air and forcing it through the intake into the engine. Because the intake air is under pressure, more air enters the engine which can be mixed with more fuel to produce more power. However, increasing the pressure of a gas also increases its temperature (Boyles law). Also the turbocharger itself gets very hot, and some of this heat is transferred to the intake air as well. This is bad, because hot air is less dense than cooler air, and also hot air can make the fuel/air mixture ignite before it is supposed to in the engine (detonation). The colder the air going in to the engine the better for power and for reliability. This is why cars are more powerful in colder weather. An intercooler is an air to air heat exchanger. The intake air going into the engine flows through it and is cooled down by air passing over the intercooler like a normal car radiator. The Supra as standard has a fairly small side-mounted intercooler in the right-hand sidepod under the headlight. It's pretty efficient, and fine for stock power levels, but for more power you need something a bit better. A front mounted intercooler is much bigger, and sits in front of the car, in front of the radiator. An alternative is an uprated Side Mounted InterCooler (SMIC). Pros: Cooler intake charge means less risk of detonation (or more boost for the same risk), more power, looks good, usually comes with hard pipes. Cons: Blocks airflow to the radiator so more risk of overheating, you really need a bumper with a bigger hole to get the most out of it.

Apart from the fact he's already got 660cc injectors, FSE, Walbro fuel pump and SAFC you mean?

Ok, basically a boost controller can only increase boost, not reduce it below what it would be with it switched off. Whether you will overboost with both cats out and no ring depends on the spec of your hybrids - if they have enlarged wastegates then you might well be ok, you'll just have to try it and see. What is considered safe boost for your hybrids I don't know, but you should probably get an EGT gauge and keep an eye on your exhaust gas temps. I would have thought that if your fuelling is set up correctly 1.4 would be OK. I'm also fairly sure that the standard pistons would be fine unless you're going mad with power.

The standard Toyota plugs are platinum I believe anyway aren't they?

It presses the clutch disc against the flywheel. So the stronger the spring the harder is presses and the more friction. You pay for this with a harder pedal. The other thing that affects things is the coefficient of friction of the disc - in other words how grippy it is.

Really sorry guys, but I am not going to be able to make this now. It's a long story that I don't particularly want to go into on here, but basically I can't drive until 9th June for medical reasons . I'm pretty pissed off about it as you can imagine, and I was looking forward to this, but not much I can do about it I'm afraid. Don't want anyone to be out of pocket, so I'll cover any deposit or whatever that is needed of course.

Give A plan a try mate, they are very good as long as you've had your car for more than a year...

That's what it does when you take the fuse out, probably means the fuse has blown or something else has gone wrong with the system.

Friday 4th June, Arrive 7.30pm for 8pm start. It's £25 each if there are 6 of us per team, details on the first page of this thread...

Yeah, whatever. Fairly sure Millhouse said he was up for it though, Millhouse ?