SimonB

Nope, they are different.

I bought a load recently, they had to order a couple but they were there inside a week. They are quite expensive though, can't remember exactly but I think they are about a fiver each.

They are 100% swappable, but not 100% the same. Well at least the accessories aren't, the actual blocks and heads are. The manual has a different accessory belt tensioner. Plus things like the radiators are different.

Spot on, good work! I'm exactly the same, so I guess I'm in the sad club too! It may have been more work, but at the end of the day you've now got rid of any nagging feeling that you hadn't done it spot on.

Always good to see the Supra on TV. Shame about the obvious total lack of knowledge of the presenter though! "These brakes are 800 degree capable.." lol!

I agree. And for God's sake don't use machine screws to hold the seal in!

Coming along nicely there! By the way, when you check oil clearance with plastigauge you are supposed to assemble it dry (i.e. no oil or assembly lube) - otherwise the lube can affect the reading.

That's cool Rob, I didn't read it as being critical. I don't know about the others but I'm pretty sure Carrillo still make their own forgings at their base in the US - that's what their website still states and I can't see them changing. TBH I expect all of these rods would be fine. You don't exactly hear of people breaking the stock ones, never mind any forged aftermarket ones. I also have no doubt the Carrillos are better quality, you just need to hold one in your hand, they are lovely. But it probably makes no difference in reality. I very much doubt you'd see any difference in power band etc. The benefit of lower mass rods is more the reduction in load where the piston changes direction so reliability basically. I don't think anyone would set their rev limits so close to the edge as to show up any difference. There are so many variables with specs you're never going to be able to compare just something like rods anyway.

Carrillo make their own rods, and keep very careful control over the material specs. Dyno print outs are irrelevant. Rods aren't going to make any difference to the power produced by an engine. As for "proven", just because people are using something doiesn't mean it's proven. You could say that stock rods are proven, after all people have run large power using them. And just about every other type of rod. How long they will last is another question! It would have to be a real piece of crap to fail within the first few tens of thousands of miles. All you can do is look at the specs and the quality of the finished forgings.

Core plugs are not really designed to protect engines from freezing collant any more. Old style freeze-plugs were, but these days core plugs are just there to plug the holes needed to cast the block. They are very unlikely to save your engine if the coolant freezes, apart from anything else they are in very tight.

You have to be careful with Crower / Brian Crower. They are two different companies with different products.

There's one on the rear - you would normally not see it because the gearbox is obviously mounted there. There are 4 of the larger ones and 2 smaller on the intake side, plus 6 large ones on the exhaust as you said. Here's some pics from my engine build thread: You can just about see the hole where the rear one goes in this pic:

I've yet to hear of a head gasket failure on a MkIV. At least one that wasn't caused by having no coolant and massively overheating the engine or something. The stock headgasket is a very good multi-layer metal job, the only reason to change is if you go for aftermarket pistons that are designed with a thicker headgasket in mind - for example the JUN pistons I have give the standard compression ratio with a 1.6mm headgasket, so I went for a HKS 1.6mm one. Otherwise I would have used a stock one.

I've just measured it, looks like M16x1.5 for anyone else who needs to know!

Some are, some aren't. We've got a Samsung LCD at work (one of those Scarlet ones) that we're driving at 1920x1080 through the VGA connector. It looks pretty good actually, but DVI-HDMI is definitely the better way of doing it. On the plasma you just have to be careful not to leave it showing a high contrast static image for too long or you'll get burn in - temporary in most cases but permanent if you left it for a long time.

Does anyone happen to know the thread size for the stock Jspec intake air temp sensor?

You can't rely on what they look like in a shop - most shops don't set them up properly, hook them up to a shite signal and the manufacturers use shop demo settings that make them look more vivid. That makes them look better in a busy lit shop next to another TV but rubbish at home in a darkened living room. Personally I wouldn't buy a Samsung, they have a pretty poor reputation for reliability at the moment, just have a look on avforums. As with anything you generally get what you pay for. If someone is advertising a big TV very cheap it's normally because it's an old model and/or not very good.

Yeah but you need a pretty even spread under the top gear down to 1st or it would be horrible. So as well as top being taller for lower rpm the others will be too.

Brilliant news. Richard Noble is an incredibly inspirational guy. If anyone hasn't read his book "Thrust" you should do, it's brilliant.

Let's say you have 2 engines, one produces 100ftlbs torque but revs to 10000 revs. The other 200ftlbs but only revs to 5000rpm. You want you car to have a top speed of 100mph. Engine one you have to gear to produce 1mph per 100rpm. Engine two you have to gear to produce 2mph per 100rpm to achieve this. So engine 1 has twice the torque reaching the wheels as engine 2 because of the gearing - result: they both deliver the same torque to the wheels. Obviously the other gears are spread out underneath the final gearing.

How annoyed is he going to be when he wins the drivers but not the constructors because Heiki hasn't performed this year!

IIRC That orange race spec one has been promised to Lewis Hamilton if he wins the championship this year.

It's true technically I think, it's just irrelevant. It's not like the Veyron would catch the F1 - the fact that it accelerates to 200 a bit faster makes no difference, the F1 would be so far ahead it wouldn't be caught for a very long time. So who cares? That's assuming you'd locked the Veyron into top speed mode too so it's pretty much incapable of cornering. I would have the F1 any day given a choice. The torque figures are misleading as the Veyron is higher geared to reach it's top speed, so less of that torque reaches the wheels. That's why it's pretty irrelevant that diesels have more torque than petrols - they are higher geared because they rev lower so less reaches the wheels. Hypercars are not supposed to be easy to drive. They should be a challenge. And as for designing your own, they say the fastest way to make a small fortune in the UK car industry is to start with a large one...

Depends what other kit you have. I only use 1 HDMI because I have an amp that everything else is plugged into. The amp does the switching. So I had Sky HD and a PS3 going to my amp carrying video and audio, then a single HDMI from that to the TV - that one only carries video.

That's the stuff I use, several OEMs do use it, but I think the official Toyota stuff is a different product as 5910 is black. 5900 is the same but sets faster.