SimonB

The extra three wires don't do anything, you don't need to splice them anywhere. I think they are for use with a different bit of kit. They aren't connected to anything on mine and it works fine.

If you find any, post up where you got 'em from. I was after some way of doing this a while ago but I never found any.

Mine's just to the left of the steering wheel. Easy to fiddle with, although you can't really see the knob very well. Ooer mrs!

I had to unsolder the launch button wires to do this too as the switch was pushed in from the front of the box if you see what I mean. Easy enough though.

Don't know, it didn't spray out when I did it, although it did bubble a lot. I don't think there's a lot you can do about it apart from put some rags around it.

Hee hee, probably best not to put so much in next time then...

Start the car with the cap off the power steering reservoir and turn the steering slowly from lock to lock a few times until it stops making a horrible noise. Then top up the fluid level to the correct level. You might have to do it a few times to get all the air out.

I'm not sure there is one as such. My V5 just has 2JZ-GTE down as the engine no. and that's what the VIN plate has for an engine number too. Is that not what they mean?

It won't fit, my garage is too full of Supra bits! Seriously, I think it would just fit, but I'd have to teleport out of the car...

It says on his website: I'll see what I can do re: photo of the underside. It's a bit wet and windy atm!

I don't even bother jacking the car up to change oil. My drain thingy fits under the car when it's on the ground. It's a bit of a stretch to reach the sump plug, but not too bad. If you leave the oil filler cap on until you get the sump plug out and start draining oil and then take it off it stops the oil shooting out everywhere initially. Before I relocated my oil filter I used to take the battery out and unbolt the power steering reservoir, makes getting to it a lot easier.

Yes he does, but only for the stock bumper and HKS S type FMIC. I have a Blitz and a Whifbitz front bumper. It doesn't look too hard a job actually, because the bottom of the bumper has a lip which the plate will sit on, and this is at very nearly the same height as the rear attachment point, which will be the front of the engine undertray where the stock front undertray attaches. So it won't need much if any bending. It's only going to be replacing the front undertray, not the one under the engine itself. I'm making a cardboard template at the moment - I'll post up some pics when I get something together.

Cheers guys, I'll have a look for a local metal dealer. What thickness do you reckon I should go for? It's going to be bolted to the mid undertray at the back and the bumper lip at the front and it needs to be thin enough so I can cut it with some shears without too much effort! Do you think 0.5mm will be thick enough, or 1mm?

I'm going to make a custom front undertray, as the stock one won't fit any more due to my bumper and FMIC. I was planning on using sheet aluminium as it's nice and light, won't rust and should be man enough for the job. Anyone know where I can get a big enough sheet of aluminium from? B&Q do thin stuff, but not in a big enough sheet I think. It obviously has to be the same width as the car.

Oh, sorry mate, just seen your other thread, guess you've checked that

It's not the good old front subframe bolts that are a bit loose is it? I think the original thread about this problem was called "I don't creak anymore" or something.

Don't know about the smaller brakes, but the big ones have a metal clip thingy at either the top or bottom, can't remember which. I think it's the noise maker that makes them squeel when they are worn out. That means they should be put on one way if you see what I mean.

You can't tell if it's a facelift from the model number as they are the same as pre-facelift cars. If it's a VVTI then the valve cover is a different colour and has a bulge at the front. The facelift came in before the VVTI though, so you can have non VVTI facelift cars like mine. There are a number of differences between the facelift and non-facelift cars, the front lights being the most obvious. The facelift ones have a dark interior and have the sidelights separate with the indicators. Earlier ones are silver and have the sidelights build into the main light cluster.

Hi there, welcome aboard! The pads are different sizes, so you can't use UK ones on Jspec brakes. You can either go with stanard Jspec pads, which you can order from a Toyota dealer, or one of the uprated sets, like the ones Chris Wilson sells, or the Porterfield fast road jobs which seem to be highly rated on Jspec brakes.

Obviously easier than it is for you to spell it though :flame Dev

www.mohdparts.com has loads of EManage info and other useful stuff.

Personally I'd leave it alone unless you're just going for looks. Changing just the springs is bound to make it handle worse.

Ah yes, good one. Cabin air temp sensor for the air con right?

Cool, thanks for the link. Some pretty good ones of me in there!

Try http://www.dashmount.co.uk, they do a Supra mount thingy that I've got my Snooper attached to. Here.