SimonB

Is this related to your postings on this thread by any chance wsb2?

Halfords do sell a battery that has the correct terminals for a Jspec, they've just given you the wrong one. You want a HCB005 (or HB005 for the non-calcium one). It's down on their list as fitting a Scooby or something.

Not sure what the advantage would be over a race-style seat with a movable back? The only thing I can think of is weight, and that's not going to make much difference in a Supra. You don't need to remove the back seats to use a harness. I've got a Sparco harness bar on the way, which bolts to the seat beat mounting points and gives something to attach the shoulder straps to.

Yeah I know, I meant in the results summary posted up here. It's interesting stuff though. I'm suprised that there aren't more autos than 81 to 58!

Lumping all the RZ in together is a bit misleading too, because the pre-facelift RZ is the same as the facelift RZ-S. The facelift RZ was quite different, being the "racey" one, manual only, Recaro seats etc. That really is a bit annoraky though isn't it?

Yep! I bought one of those Halfords calcium ones when mine went. They're very good and fit straight in.

If you look down inside the wings each side there is a yellow grommit. It's kind of through an opening with a plastic surround on. I think the clutch one applies to autos?

You could try this place for Mocal stuff: www.thinkauto.com I've not used them or anything, just came across them the other day when I was looking at hoses etc.

Ah, never thought about autos. I'd rather change into the wrong gear myself than let an autobox do it for me...

Don't let go of the wheel ! If you keep hold of it and keep looking up the road in the direction you want to go you'll probably find you instinctively countersteer. That plus a gentle lift off the throttle and you'll be sorted Don't take you foot right off the throttle though - if you do all the weight transfers to the front of the car as you slow down, which makes the back slide even more.

Well, I've only done a few miles, so I haven't even scrubbed the tyres in yet, but not much different to stock. The ride is perhaps a little harder with the lower profile tyres, but hardly noticible, and I haven't noticed any more tramlining or anything. I can't tell you about levels of grip etc yet...

Thanks, suave, I like that!

Yes you can Quite an easy job to do apart from getting the sodding plastic ring thing undone. You'll have to use a big screwdriver or something and a hammer probably...

Ha ha, flattery will get you everywhere, or at least a set of facelift centre caps! LOL! I was planning on keeping the old wheels and using them for track days etc, but a center cap swap could be in order I suppose... I guess you could get these ones and have them repainted or whatever in silver. I was a bit sceptical about the anthracite ones but they look really good in real life, the gray kind of sets off the silver of the spokes and makes them look thinner. The dish effect on the rears is because of the offset. If you had that on the front the offset would be all wrong which would mess up the handling, and they'd stick out too. One of the advantages of these wheels is that they have the correct offset etc. Stock wheels are 50mm offset, these are half an inch wider and have a 40mm offset, so just about perfect.

Not quite the same angle, but near enough

Just had my new wheels fitted, beat you to it Chris! There's some more pics in this thread in the multimedia section. These are the anthracite Lexus sport ones, I absolutely love 'em! .

Hee hee! Mine are going on this afternoon hopefully . Micheldever tyres where I normally go wanted £613, the local place £628 so I just got the local place to get some in. It'd cost me more in petrol to get to Micheldever. Couldn't be arsed with getting them delivered and fitted separately.

Here is the link.

Well, they do wear on the inside first due to the standard camber settings - it's to give you grip when cornering. But that sounds excessive. I'd get a full alignment check. The standard settings are on http://www.mkiv.com somewhere, together with a suggested alternative that a few people on here have tried and been pretty happy with.

It's a right fiddle getting to the manifold though, that's the point. The Mongoose system is straight through from manifold to tailpipe isn't it? I'm suprised there isn't a join in it somewhere though. My fronts have done getting on for 15k miles, and they're still OK, never mind 8k km! What tyres are they?

Standard sizes are 8" on the front, 9.5" on the rear, standard tyre sizes are 255 40 17 rear, 225 45 17 front. Full set of Goodyear Eagle F1s should be just over 400 quid from somewhere like Micheldever tyres. HTH (Edited because I'm crap and got the profiles wrong first time! )

Here here Ian, besides who wants to just go fast in a straight line? I'd much rather be able to select the correct gear for a corner and feather the throttle rather than guess what gear the thing is going to put me in. Watching the autos round Castle Combe at Japfest you could hear them changing down in the middle of a corner!

Updated with Lexus offsets now I have some of these ( ) and the generic PCD, hub size etc...

Since my EGT gauge has been sitting there doing nothing for more than a year now because I've not got round to getting the probe fitted, it's time to get it done (in the manifold, naturally ). I know everyone is going to say take it to Chris Wilson, but he's miles away, so does anyone know of anywhere nearer the South that can do it? There's no way I'm doing it, that's for sure!

Have a look here. That's a list of wheels known to fit over the UK brakes which I know you haven't got, but they will certainly all fit on a J spec too. It's probably worth buying wheels that will clear the bigger brakes anyway - you may well upgrade to them in the future.