SimonB

You can buy it as either just a BOV or with an install kit that comes with hoses and brackets etc to let you mount it in the stock location. Or you can get kits with flanges that you have to weld on to a hard pipe somewhere. Even without a kit, £140 is pretty good.

I just knew all the suppliers on here would arrive and tell me they sold these as soon as I posted LOL! It's all very well selling this stuff guys, but unless you put it on your website then nobody knows do they?

Thought this might be useful. I really don't like the worm-drive circlip hose clamps you get with FMICs etc, so I've been on the lookout for some better ones that you can actually tighten up without them breaking. I found these from a place called RallyNuts. They are Mikalor Supra Pro W4, and they are extremely high quality, and look the business. They also do some cheaper ones, as these are pretty expensive. I used the Pro ones for the four clamps visible in the engine bay, and the standard ones for the other clamps. Definitely recommend them, and the shop who also do lots of other motorsport-type stuff like harnesses. If you have a Blitz FMIC the sizes you need are: 1 x 79-85mm (for 75mm hose to throttle body) 8 x 85-91mm (for 80mm hose. I bought 1 pro and 7 normal) 2 x 73-79mm (for 70mm hose on turbo side) 1 x 68-73mm (for 65mm hose from turbo) I bought some for the rad pipe too. Only thing you have to worry about now is doing them up too tight and squishing the pipe! Here's a pic:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/clamps.jpg

I think you're talking about the electric wing mirror switch there mate

Cool, I'll go for Sat as well then (probably).

Is there any more info on this anywhere? Like where it is, what time it starts etc? Is everyone going on the Sunday? Convoy down there for the Bournemouth massif?

Yes, still the same, the "national speed limit" sign means unrestricted. The 130Kph is a recommended speed for unrestricted autobahns at all times, there's no specific limit when it's wet (that's France). Most of the autobahns seem to have overhead signs that they use to put temporary 130Kph limits on when it rains though or is busy, a bit like the variable speed limits on the M25.

Yeah Ash, and anyway he said this: So nyer nyer!

I'm sure Millhouse will be along in a mo to point this out, but check out the re-upholstery group buy in the for sale section. Those guys can do stuff like the doors, handbrake, steering wheel etc etc.

Yep, deffo battery. What happens is that there's enough power to open the relay, then the starter motor draws all the power and so the relay closes again. Then there's enough power to open the relay again and the cycle starts again. Makes a clicking noise.

PMSL! Classic

Not sure what you mean? The RLTC just uses the ABS wheel speed sensors as a way of measuring the speed of each wheel, it has nothing to do with the brakes.

When I first bought the car it had Continental ContiSports on. When I switched to Eagle F1s I noticed they definiitely make more noise, but they are much better in the wet.

What tyres have you got? They can make a big difference.

Sorry Dave, didn't mean to sound like I was putting down your efforts or anything! Like I said, it's interesting stuff, and you did a great job setting it all up I was just saying that the fact that Toyota changed the models round confuses things slightly...

I'm probably up for this too, I missed it last year for some reason, but it looks like I can make it this time

In fact, having had a look I'm fairly sure it's still the same for the Supra. They do the type CB (round section carbon fibre) for the rear only. The only carbon front one they do is the type ALC OS, which is oval aluminium wrapped in carbon fibre. I presume it's something to do with the amount of space available meaning the front one has to be oval which would be hard to make in CF or something. Here's a pic from SupraStore:-

They used to do the rear ones in proper CF or covered, but they didn't make a pure CF one for the front for the Supra. I guess they might have started making them now, but since all the pictures I've seen have been on other cars (including the ones on MVPs site), who knows?

1) Clarkey Sparkey 2) Chipmunk 3) Malamute 4) Mcanney 5) CJ 6) Supradibbs 7) Trig 8) Castle 9) Supragal 10) Jasonmoola 11) Attilauk 12) Matt B 13) Manic 14) Branners (depending on price) 15) Dangerous Brain 16) Lightwave 17) SimonB Dependant on price like everyone else

That's actually a really cool idea, nice one! Don't need one myself because I've got an RSM, but nice idea...

Feeling creative today: Name: Turbo Timer Also known as: Errr, a turbo timer (also see IntelliStart) What is it? It's an electronic gizmo that runs the engine on for a while when you turn the ignition off to allow oil to circulate and cool the turbos down. If you turn the engine off straight away after hooning about the oil stops flowing past the turbo bearings. Because the turbos are so hot, oil can solidify and form deposits which can knacker your turbo bearings. Which is bad. That is why you should always let the car idle for a while before switching off, to let the oil circulate and cool them down (you do that already right? ) A turbo timer is a lazy man's gadget that wires into the ignition and does the idling for you, by counting down on a timer. The simplest ones are just timers, the more sophisticated measure boost, revs or some other variable and use it to work out how long to idle for. They all have a feature that cuts the engine immediately if the handbrake is released by an opportunist thieving scumbag! An alternative is an alarm like a top end Clifford which has IntelliStart - basically remote engine starting and stopping. Pros: Idles the car so you don't have to (but see cons below) Most have other features like stopwatches, boost gauges etc. Takes the guesswork out of things. Cons: Can cause problems with alarms as they will think the ignition is on. Some creative wiring is required to let you arm the alarm and lock the doors while the engine is running. It's actually illegal to leave your car with the engine running. These two things mean you probably have to sit there waiting anyway!

Right, I'm bored so I wrote an entry for BOVs:- Name: BOV Also known as: Blow Off Valve Dump Valve What is it? When you take your foot off the accelerator to change gear or whatever there is suddenly a lot of pressurised air from the turbos that has nowhere to go as the engine doesn't need it any more. A BOV is a valve that is triggered by the pressure difference in the manifold and gets rid of this excess air. If this didn't happen it would cause the turbos to suddenly stop spinning, which would not only knacker them in short order but mean they had to spin up from a standstill when you got back on the throttle again. There are two types of BOV, one vents the air to the atmosphere (atmospheric) and the other vents it back into the air intake (recirculating). The standard BOV (it's the black round thing to the left of the engine) is a recirculating job and is generally regarded to work fine up to around 18psi of boost. After this or when they get a bit old, they have been known to leak. The main reason for changing to an aftermarked one is to make a nice loud whoosh when you back off the throttle as nearly all of them are the atmospheric type . You can mount them in the same place as the stock one (kits are available to do this for most BOVs), or have a flange welded to a hard pipe somewhere (typically the one that goes into the throttle body). You can also keep the stock one and add an aftermarket one, or even two. Pros: Makes a cool whoosh noise when you back off the throttle . A well made one can hold more boost than the standard one without leaking. In theory recirculating the hot air back into the intake like the standard BOV could heat up the intake air whereas venting it does not but this is very unlikely to make any difference in practice. Looks 'bling' under the bonnet. Cons: If you have a UK car, an atmospheric BOV can confuse the ECU because they use a MAF airflow sensor which is ahead of the BOV. This sensor registers that a certain amount of air is flowing in, so the ECU reacts accordingly. But that air has been vented by the BOV! This can cause stalling. The jap spec cars have a MAP pressure sensor and don't suffer from this problem.

That's exactly what it is! They don't make a pure CF front one, just CF wrap. Still waiting for my front one to arrive mind

The Autoglym clean wheels stuff has got phosphoric acid in, that might work?

Here you go: www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/