SimonB

I'd change your plugs too Tim, or at least have a look and see what state they're in. There were a couple of puffs of white smoke out the back as you pulled on to the motorway on the way back from Billing, it was fine after that all the way home though.

It's not a VVTI, and using the standard ECU. Standard optimax, I didn't reset the ECU before, but I always use Optimax anyway. I've got an EGT gauge, but haven't got the sensor plumbed in yet! 1.46 BAR was the peak on that run, but like I say that's definitely too much boost - I keep it below that while driving, just haven't got round to getting a restrictor ring in there yet.

Thought I'd post up my dyno graphs from Billing. I'm running full decat + Nur spec exhaust, Walbro fuel pump (but no FSE or other adjustable pressure reg, so stock fuel pressure), Blitz FMIC, RPS lightweight FW, SouthBend Kevlar clutch. I haven't got a restrictor ring in there yet so I'm currently relying on my right foot and warning on the turbo timer boost gauge to keep it below 1.3 BAR. On the run these graphs show, Pete had to back off when the fuelling leaned out as it was hitting 1.4 BAR. Obviously I'm going to put a restrictor ring in so I don't have to rely on my right foot. Then it's going to be an Emanage & associated bits & up the fuel pressure a bit with an adjustable regulator. Going to go for a Profec E01 at the same time, as it can control the Emanage and also log various parameters for 3 hours or so! . With the external signal harness you can buy a AEM UEGO wideband kit for $359US and log AFR too. Has anyone got the AEM UEGO wideband? It uses a Bosch sensor. That might have to wait a bit though, spent far too much this year Torque & Power:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/DynoJuly2004/TorqueVsPower.jpg Torque & Fuelling :- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/DynoJuly2004/TorqueVsFuelling.jpg Boost:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/DynoJuly2004/Boost.jpg

LOL! What a nightmare! Nice sunny weekend too, and the Supra trapped inside!

What Pete is saying is that it's use is as an adjustable pressure regulator. In other words you can increase the fuel pressure above standard, which will mean more fuel flows for the same injector opening, same as if you'd increased the injector size. You would then need an Emanage or SAFC to lean it out everywhere except where you wanted some extra fuel i.e. at high boost/revs. This is what I am planning to do, with either an FSE or aeromotive pressure reg and Emanage.

Hello & welcome aboard!

Yeah, 7:15 ought to be plenty of time. My no. if 07866 764618 in case you haven't got it already.

Yep, what time? Oh, can I borrow your brake bleeding doodah as well? Got some new braided hoses on the way and it's time for a fluid change anyway...

Yep, was planning to

If you're going to buy stuff from the USA, I would use Dusty at MVP every time (and in fact I have!). The guy replies to emails without fail by the next day and is highly recommended .

Yup, me too! Been meaning to get this sorted for ages.

Come on guys, still plenty left to do!

LOL! Have I achieved grand mastery of the BBS by being able to post without actually posting? Do not try to post a reply, for that is impossible. Instead realise the truth - there is no post...

Go to www.photobucket.com. It's a free pic hosting site and you can link directly to pics.

With uprated injectors and/or fuel pressure regulator you will also need a fuel computer of some sort. Options are a stand-alone ECU, SAFC or Greddy Emanage. The Emanage is the one to go for IMHO. Plenty of info on here about it. You may not need a restrictor ring with hybrids as some have enlarged wastegates. Also worth saying that all of these suggested upgrades assume you are going to run higher than standard boost. There's nothing to stop you running standard boost to start with until you sort other stuff out. Personally I would be worried about det with hybrids and a standard intercooler. I would want a FMIC and/or water injection.

You've got a couple of mine in there - the Soooopra with the Lexus wheels...

It's basically a personal choice thing at the end of the day, and lets face it, although I don't like autos in general, I'd much rather have an auto Supra that a manual pretty much anything else! As for the LSD, what basically happens with a conventional diff is that if one wheel loses traction then it becomes easier to turn than the other and all the engine's power goes to that wheel rather than the one that still has grip. When you power out of a corner, the inside rear wheel has much less grip than the outside one because all the weight of the car is on the outside wheel and the inside one has very little weight on it. With a conventional diff that inside wheel will spin as you put the power on. An LSD limits the difference in speeds between the two wheels, so instead of the wheel with the least grip getting all the power, the wheel with grip also gets some. That means you can power out of corners much faster. It also means that should you break traction with the rears they will both go rather than just one. If you do a donut in a car with a normal diff, the inside rear wheel will spin on its own and the car will turn in a circle. With a LSD both wheels will spin which will pitch the car round the front wheels like a pendulum. It's a fair bit more complicated than that as there are several different types of LSD that work in different ways, but that's the basic idea.

Plus robs less power than the auto, is more economic and around a track allows you to use the correct gear for the corner and maintain an even throttle without it changing up or down and getting you in trouble. EDIT: Forgot to say also, not all the autos had the limited slip diff (it was optional), and that does make a difference as it gives you loads more grip out of corners (plus allows proper donuts innocent:), so worth checking. It's the last letter on the axle code on the VIN plate, A=standard diff, B=Torsen LSD)

I always end up saying this when this particular bit of misinformation comes out, but not all J specs have the smaller brakes. They were standard on facelift (i.e. > 95) RZ models, which were all manual incidently, and optional on other models. Same goes for quite a few other things.

Yeah, and cost you an absolute fortune in bits you never thought of buying until you saw them on someone's car over the next year! Welcome aboard...

They can be a bit hard to get out. If you've removed the three bolts you just need to pull it towards you. There's a kind of push on thing at the bottom inside edge that holds it on and can be tough. Just pull harder...

Cool, I'll pay my deposit at the show then. They might want to have a look at my seats to see what they're letting themselves in for with my Recaros and harness slots etc...

The triangle is the master warning light - it lights up red, not yellow. The traction control light is a separate one on the left hand side of the top bit of the dash. If you switch TC off you will see where it is. Warning light when flooring it with no other symptoms is almost certainly low brake fluid - the level goes below the warning level as it sloshes around.

As I said, you might well get this as I am planning on dyno ing mine at Billing (I have a Walbro but no FSE as I could fit the pump myself but haven't got a FP gauge to set an adjustable reg up). I also wanted to see what state my fueling was in before planning what upgrades to do - e.g. I might go for an adjustable reg and Emanage, or bigger injectors & Emanage, or none of the above! If I do decide on an FSE then I'll get it dynoed again.

Yes, but the issue isn't that there is no stock vs. Walbro comparison, it's that there is no Walbro with stock regulator vs. Walbro with FSE comparison. In other words, no comparison that is looking at the FSEs effect in isolation. Don't get me wrong - I may well buy one, I want to see what my fueling situation is first anyway, but the point is that you can't put up graphs that show several components being upgraded and then point to one of those upgraded components and say that it's the cause of the improvements IMHO.