SimonB

Which Blitz timer is it, the DTT (dua turbo timer) or the full auto one? I have a DTT and there isn't a white wire. Or an orange one come to mention it! I have my Snooper on a mount that came from a company called Dashmount . You can see it in this pic. Sorry, couldn't be arsed to take one specially, I'm hungover... http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/DSCN1811.JPG

I think Mawby definitely saw the pheasants! He was nearly responsible for another one meeting its maker when it ran out in front of him!

Yes, good roads once past the "world's slowest car driver"! Particularly liked the one with that whole series of right-left-right corners. Only got lost once, taking the wrong exit off a roundabout back the way I'd just come . Luckily I hauled arse and caught up again. Sorry for blasting past you and dissapearing on the way back home Mawby, had to get a move on as I was running very late! I was back home at 7:30 though, you can really go pretty fast down the A35 when you're concentrating and really need to! Bit worrying amount of smoke on idle started coming out the back of my car though! Did you find your loose hose Mawby?

You wouldn't necessarily have to take the adaptor off, you could put the oilstat by the cooler. You can get stand-alone ones that have 4 connectors, in and out connectors and a oil cooler in and out connector.

There was no fan on mine to start with! Unless it's round the back of the rad. Mine's a facelift manual...

Or just relocate the oil filter and use a take off with plugs for oil temp and pressure sensors. The Greddy one has, and so does the Miami GT one I believe.

It will probably just mean that it takes ages to warm up in the winter. If you're worried about it you can get an oil thermostat (oilstat) that will only route oil through the cooler when needed and plumb that in. Mocal do them, they're not expensive.

Ah yes, good point there Ian!

Yeah, that stuff is crap though unless you have a very small puncture it's useless. Run flats actually do depressurise, but still work OKish thanks to the very stiff sidewall. But as Nick said, that makes the ride awful and messes up the handling. You wouldn't notice on a Z4 because the rise is so damn awful anyway! If you read Evo magazine they're always going on about how swapping the standard run-flats on some of their fast fleet cars for normal tyres makes them handle much better.

The other problem with oil that is too cool is that moisture doesn't boil off as vapour. Decent oil cooler setups have a thermostatic valve that only routes oil through the cooler when it gets above a certain temp, so it doesn't takes ages to warm up on startup.

RPM is a pulsed signal anyway, not like the MAP sensor which is a linear voltage thingy that can be clamped at a particular voltage. You would have to build a device similar to a speed convertor. You could then put that between something like an Emanage and the ECU so the Emanage saw the true RPM signal and based its maps on that, then the ECU would see a clamped signal and therefore not have a rev limit. I'm sure someone like Pete could build something, but I doubt if there is anything off the shelf that would do it.

Well, mine went on the dyno with a fuel pump and no FSE. It's overboosting at the moment (which I knew anyway as I have no restrictor ring as yet), but basically fuelling was OK up to 1.2 BAR, then it started getting a bit lean. I'm going to get either an FSE or aeromotive, purely as an adjustable pressure regulator to turn the fuel pressure up a bit and use an Emanage to trim it down. It would be hard to make a comparison though, even if I go for an FSE, as it would be the effect of increased fuel pressure that would make the difference, not the FSE per se. It clocked 430bhp at the hubs, but like I say that was at crazy boost (~1.45BAR), and consequently running lean. The graphs are on here somewhere - there was certainly no lack of low down torque or anything without an FSE.

Surely you could also tune it out with an Emanage by adjusting the fueling at that point?

I have absolutely no problems with mine, but mine is a manual if there's any difference. I haven't noticed any difference in the air con after putting the FMIC on.

You won't think it's no problem if it snaps when you're going round a roundabout and you suddenly have no power steering and can't steer the car . Having said that, it's probably no more likely to than an original one, but you definitely wouldn't want it snapping!

Not necessarily. If it is an RZ it will have the big brakes (and be a manual with Recaro seats), otherwise they were optional.

Quick tip for you - rather than cut the hose and put a T into it, just get a short bit of new hose, unplug the old hose and put that into one end of your T piece, your new bit on the other end and plug that back in where the old hose went. Saves cutting the original hose in case you want to put it back any time.

Haha! PMSL, quality!

Well I did a big tour round Europe last year, took in various places in France, Barcelona, Avignon, Tolouse, Cannes, Nice, Monacco, Portofino, Maranello, Moderna, Luzerne, Heidelburg and Brussels.

AFAIK it is Toyota's policy to supply any part from any Toyota worldwide, so they should do exactly that. You may find they have to call up a Lexus dealer to get part numbers etc as they won't have the Jap version of the EPC. If you have a part number they should get it for you though. If they give you hassle or charge you extra report them to Toyota UK.

Of course you are now the grand master of fuel and injector related knowledge after your idling problems a while back!

Errr, 0-60 in 4.9 seconds is taking until 80 to get into its swing is it?

Then if you need to up the fuelling you can increase the pressure a bit and use an Emanage or SAFC to trim it back down everywhere apart from where you need more fuel. That's what I'm planning on doing. Obviously larger injectors would be better, but also more money. Should be ok for modest fueling increases I think. Btw, what exactly is static fuel pressure defined as? I think it is the pressure at idle with the vac hose to the regulator disconnected, is that right?

Yeah, I know. Mine's a manual with a lightened flywheel though remember, so less stuff in the way between the engine and wheels .

It's not that hard to do it yourself if you can solder. It's only three or four wires. But easier if you can get a harness. I couldn't get one for my facelift car at the time I fitted mine so I did it myself.