SimonB

I disagree. Without an LSD all that will happen is that the inside wheel will spin. If you want to kick the rear out under power you will need an LSD. In any case going into a drift is achieved by shifting the cars weight using the brakes, clutch or handbrake, not by applying power - the power only maintains the drift. If you watch the "Drift Bible" DVD from Best Motoring (which is very cool indeed btw!), the guy demonstrates the various ways of setting up a drift, by using the handbrake, sidestepping the clutch, doing the old scandinavian flick or just turning in on the brakes. Then you feather the throttle to keep the back out, which is going to be near impossible without a LSD.

Using 9005 in both is the key, it's easy then. The dipped beam is still not as bright as some new cars, and much better than standard. Remember the full beam is so bright because you have the dipped lights plus the main beams on too.

General rule: easy gently off the power. Don't lift completely or the weight will transfer forwards as you suddenly slow down and give you even less grip at the back. Of course saying that and doing it in the heat of the moment are two different things!

Yeah, that's the secret, use 9005 in both main and dip and trim the lugs and socket a bit.

There's supraforums, http://www.supraforums.com. You don't have to pay. It's a bit annoying though, plenty of unhelpful people on there and the sig pictures drive me nuts. Just apply your American filter before reading...

Were you trying to do something there Steve, or just quote my details...

Look on your VIN plate, at the trans/axle code. The diff is the last letter of the second part, should be A for open diff, B for LSD

I think if your EGTs were 1200C before turbos your engine would have melted by now, never mind after turbos! It's not reading in fahrenheit is it? 1200 deg F is 650 deg C.

That's because there isn't really. They just quoted 280bhp to avoid breaking the Japanese "gentlemen's agreement" not to build cars with more than 280bhp. Stock cars of both types have been dyno'd and produced roughly the same power. Do a search and you'll find many many threads about this!

Ooo, forgot to order mine too! The quoting seems to have broken down on this thread, so I'll just put mine down: 1 x grey Medium T shirt, black stitching, logo + forum name on the sleeve as before. Cheers Rosie!

1. millhouse 2. Bobbeh 3. Ray Cunliffe 4. Sherriff 5. Justin (If turbos survive TOTB. Ehm, if I can get my new Supra) 6. Barney (If my car is finished) 7. Supra66 8. The Envy lot 9. Timwildman 10. Graham S(no puking up this time) 11. CJ 12. Paul_y3k 13. leett 14. Ian S. 15. TLicense 16. Halo Inc 17. Nic_F 18. NEO 19. V 20. jusie 21. lotus 22. SupraStar 23. supradibbs (work permitting) 24. Martin R (work permitting) 25. Ian R 26. Branners (car permitting) 27. Dude 28. Steve M (sup Permitting 29. Bill Prawn (possible, maybe). 30. Bammbamm 31. Kopite (if i got the supe out of the bodyshop by then ) 32. Vaughany (Work Permitting) 33. Matt Harwood (Clutch/lazyness permitting) 34. Cashpoint (clutch permitting) 35. Gatso & Soo 36. MONKEYmark (car permitting) 37. SimonB

They said a similar thing to me once when I phoned up for a quote. I think it depends on who you talk to, some of them are complete muppets. Give A plan a try, at least they know what they're talking about.

So all you need for the simplest setup is one of these adaptors that will bolt in where the stock one goes, and a couple of bits of fuel hose and connectors. No drilling, tapping or welding needed. Have I got that right?

Ok, let's say I want to use an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with the stock fuel rail, injectors etc. What fittings would I need? I presume some sort of fitting to go in the fuel rail where the stock regulator is and some sort of fitting to connect it back up to the drain back to the tank. What exactly would I need, where could I get it from and can it in fact it be done easily on a stock rail without taking it off and welding stuff?

Sorry, haven't had to MOT mine yet since I changed the bumper. It did fail last year initially when the left hand one was missing from the standard bumper, but it was a bit obvious that it was missing there.

Unfortunately not, it has a chip in one end. I think they did it to stop people using any old cable and copying the software. You have to buy the support tool which comes with the cable. I've found a couple of guys making clone cables now - one direct replacement and one USB-USB jobby (if you try and use a normal USB-USB it blows up the Emanage, so best not to try that one!). I've ordered one of the USB-USB ones in case I need to do anything like this again.

For future reference if anyone else comes across this problem, Cliff kindly lent me his cable and I downloaded the latest firmware from a laptop which sorted this out .

First if you want a replacement SMIC, I would go for a Chris Wilson one rather than a Trust one. Otherwise it depends on what your future goals are. On stock turbos there won't be any need for bigger injectors. You'll get by with a Walbro fuel pump and possibly a fuel pressure regulator of some sort (Aeromotive or FSE). Then you can turn up the pressure a bit if required - that should be plenty of fuel for stock turbos and probably hybrids too. If you're going to go for a single in the future, or hybrids then you might be better off with some biger injectors - 650s should be fine I would have thought. You're going to need a FMIC really though I would have thought at least, possibly water injection too.

I could do with a favour from someone who has an Emanage and the support tool data cable. I just installed my Emanage along with my Profec E01 boost controller, which has a feature to update the firmware on the Emanage before you can use it. It looks like the version on my Profec is a bit dodgy, because after downloading it to the Emanage the activity light flashes red-orange-green continuously and no longer works. I think it's in limp home mode. Anyway, I think what I need to do is download the latest firmware to the Emanage from a laptop, which will hopefully sort it out. I haven't got the support tool cable though, is there someone that can lend me theirs so I can update the firmware?

The colours on that diagram refer to the wires on the FCD, not the ECU I think. I've just been installing my Emanage, and I know that the MAP wire is definitely yellow/black on my facelift. Not sure about the others but I'm sure Petes diagram is correct, just make sure you're looking at it the right way round and you should be fine.

Good one, now we can look up exactly which size and type of hammer corresponds to each SST!

Do NOT use Redline in the manual gearbox, you should only use the Toyota V160 stuff. There have been problems in the US with people using Redline oil, it can cause a bushing inside the gearbox to expand, causing selection problems. Here is a link from MKIV.com which is a response from Getrag about this.

LOL! That's exactly what I was thinking of doing too! Great minds and all that...

I need some vacuum caps to cap off stuff to fit my boost controller. I thought it'd be a simple trip to the local car bits place, but they looked at me blankly and said they didn't have anything like that! Neither does the local hardware place, Halfords or B&Q (ok I was getting desperate by then!). Any idea where you can get them from? All I want is 4 1/4 inch / 6mm vac caps!

Woohooo, I'm famous! Couple of pics of mine in there...