SimonB

It's your brake fluid that needs topping up. Even though it looks like the level is OK, it sloshes around and drops below the level of the sensor.

Yep, mine's a manual. What did you want to know? I'm on a course this week, so won't be reading the BBS much though...

Oi! Kind of true though, the tourist board slogan for Christchurch is "Christchurch, where time is pleasant", but we came up with the much more appropriate "Christchurch, where time is borrowed..."

Ah, yet another outing for Kev's amazingly large smily collection! There's one for every occasion...

Hello! There are indeed loads of us from Southampton and Bournemouth. Probably more than any other area actually. I'm sure the rest of the "Bourenmouth massif" will be along in a mo...

LOL! Keep forgetting the US is so bloody huge. Same state so it must be just round the corner...

MVP are in Texas, can't remember where though, have a look on their site.

Re: bigger brakes, after the facelift there were 2 TT Jap models. The RZ was manual only and all had the big brakes. The RZ-S was manual or auto and didn't have the big brakes as standard, but they were an option. So if you buy a facelift auto it may or may not have the big brakes basically.

They're actually 40 offset (as opposed to 50 for the standard wheels). That's to compensate for the extra width.

Just posted on the main thread too...

Isn't that some of Mycroft's work?

Same here, I didn't think it was that negative. I think PHers like most people simply don't know much about the Supra and assume it's a tarted up Celica or something. When they actually see one at a track day, meet or whatever opinions change. I was at a PH meet on Sunday, and there was a fair bit of interest in my car (in fact there's a thread on PH about it somewhere). I suppose we are guilty of the same thing sometimes here, I mean how many people dive in on any thread about TVRs with the old unreliability chestnuts.

Yeah, but there's no input for a wideband on the Emanage itself unless you use the throttle position sensor or pressure sensor connections. The E01 has an external signal harness that allows you to connect two analogue and 2 pulsed inputs and log them alongside the stuff from the Emanage. The only trouble being you can't export it to a PC to have a look at. I seem to remember you had a wideband hooked up, did you use the TPS input to the Emanage or something?

Vaughany, I think you're in the same position as me pretty much. I don't think 1 or 2 are options on their own, so what I would do is get an Aeromotive FPR, Emanage (not much more than a SAFC and far more flexible) and increase your fuel pressure slightly and trim it down with the Emanage. Then if you go for hybrids and need more fuel you can change the injectors later - it's no bad thing having an adjustable regulator anyway with bigger injectors as they are better quality than the standard one, give more flexibility and aren't all that expensive. Then you need to get it all mapped on a dyno. The alternative is to get a wideband AFR sensor and something to log it (like the Profec E01 boost controller or display) and map it yourself, then check it on a dyno probably to to be safe.

Yes, but so does fitting bigger injectors. In either case you need to trim the fuel down everywhere apart from where you want the extra using an SAFC or EManage. For a modest increase in fuel I can't see the advantages of bigger injectors outweigh the extra expense.

That's true, but only at high revs. I did some logging with my shiny new E01 the other day and was quite suprised at how the duty rate ramped up with revs. I got something like this (all at > 1 BAR) revs 4500 5000 5500 6000 duty 75% 82% 92% 98% Looking at my dyno graphs, I was running lean at the 4000 to 6000 rev range, then fine(ish) at 6000 and above. So I've richened it up in that range, where there is still some spare injector capacity. Obviously this is a temporary fix, I'm going to up the fuel pressure slightly with an Aeromotive and trim it out with the Emanage to give myself some headroom. I also have an AEM UEGO wideband sensor on the way - they do one without a display which is very cheap and will connect up to the E01 so you can datalog it along with everything else.

I just used the manual mode. I thought the nature of the sequential turbos and resulting boost curve confused the auto feature. I have the boost warning thing set to reduce the duty cycle at 1.3BAR, and the manual mode set to boost slightly above that. Then it holds it bang on 1.3BAR.

Yes, the TPS is linear AFAIK. I've just been out and had a look on the E01 at MAP sensor voltage vs. boost pressure from the Greddy boost sensor. I get: 1.12 V at -0.8 BAR 2.61 V at 0 BAR 4.87 V at 1.24 BAR with a linear scale in between. One interesting thing I noticed is that the MAP sensor seems to lag fractionally behind the Greddy sensor.

Ok, here's that lot at the ECU:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/ecu.JPG Don't know the RPM voltage, but it's a pulsed signal remember, not an analogue one, so the voltage doesn't really matter. I wouldn't attach a 5amp draw to the ECU power line either, cigarete lighter maybe? The MAP sensor is 5V max, but the top end of that is going to be inaccurate. Just over 4.2V is where fuel cut occurs IIRC. TPS max is not 5V, I think it depends on the car. There's a calibration thing on my E01 for TPS and the values I have are 0% = 0.52V, 100%=3.72V.

Without knowing what your fueling is doing there's no real way of telling. It certainly won't do any harm though! I would definitely change the pump, then get it on a dyno and check your fuelling out. That will give you info for future mods and peace of mind, although you should be fine at 1.2BAR.

Damn, Jake beat me to it!

The only hard bit is undoing the big plastic ring which holds the pump carrier into the tank. Big screwdriver or something and a hammer will be needed. You disconnect the various hoses that go to this which is easy, although you'll spill a bit of fuel so bung a rag in the boot. Then undo the aforementioned plastic ring. Then you can lift out the hanger that the pump is on. Then all you need to do is take the old pump off, attach the new one using the rubber spacer you get with it, connect it up using a new bit of hose you get with the pump to the metal connector. Then you cut the two wires and attach the new plug using the splices you get with the pump (making sure you get the wires round the right way or your pump will suck petrol out of your engine... ). Put the whole lot back, do the placcy ring up again and reattach your hoses, job done.

I'm fairly sure I'd remember taking those if I had of done!

The handbrake one is optional. It turns off the engine immediately if anyone releases the handbrake (i.e. to drive off in your car!). Dunno about the other one. Is is supposed to be for RPM so the timer can work out how long to let it run for or something?

Yeah, Simon B, right arm. Dunno what colour heather is supposed to be, but that sounds right! I'm a bloke, why can't they just call it grey, we get confused if they make things too complicated... Cheers