SimonB

I've gone for the AEM UEGO with no display (single channel) from MVP. It's a fair bit cheaper than the alternatives.

It's only in car footage that's banned, you can take photos of the cars going round from one of the viewing areas. Plus they have no way of seeing your camera once you're on the track anyway. As long as you don't wave it around in front of the bloke manning the barrier. Same goes for the noise limit. As long as you don't rev it up in the carpark you'll be fine - there will be far noisier things than a Supra going round!

Cheap imitation nitrous purge...

Yeah, no problem Paul. I will of course be expecting a whopping big discount in return...

Here's a pic of a very rare racing one from the festival of speed this year:- http://image06.webshots.com/6/5/36/10/156953610MnSIIx_ph.jpg

I'm happy to pay extra to make up any shortfall. I think people who put their name down and then pulled out should pay anyway though. The costs were made clear at the beginning - if it was a ticket event you wouldn't get your money back. I would hope most people would anyway, like CJ already has.

Pray for good weather? I'd love to do Thruxton, super fast. They only do a very few track days a year though and have strict noise limits. I've got a whole load of stuff in my circuit guide about it. Here's an excerpt: My advice for all trackdays is: 1. Start slow and build up speed, don't think you're a shit hot driver and try to go too fast straight away or you'll probably stuff it into the tyres. 2. Never time yourself, or try and race everyone else, you'll only end up trying to push too hard to beat your own time. My first track day I didn't do either of these, it was pissing it down and I ended up in the tyres quite early on (only a small impact, but still expensive).

Woohoo, just booked myself a room at the inn...

Not on mine it isn't.

Yes that's right, you don't need a guage for the wideband, you connect it to the E01 with the optional external signal harness (which is a few wires on the end of a plug!) and then tell the E01 what voltage equates to what reading. I've got the AEM wideband with no display on order as it's cheaper than the one with the guage and I haven't got anywhere to put another guage anyway. I'll let you know how I get on with it when it arrives in a few weeks. You don't really need an EGT guage I would say if you have a wideband - I bought mine ages ago and it happens to be a Greddy guage so you can hook it up too. Mind you I still haven't had the sensor plumbed in yet! I would say when you're tuning a laptop would definitely be easier to use. The advantage of the E01 is that it's connected all the time so you can keep an eye on things and record logs any time without having to hook the laptop up every time. The E01 uses a SD card to store its data, so ideally you would be able to transfer its logs off onto a PC to look at later, but nobody seems to have managed to do that.

I've got one hooked up to my Emanage, it's a very nice bit of kit. It's a very good boost controller in its own right and when hooked to the Emanage it's gadget central. I'm going to hook up a AEM wideband to mine, and my EGT gauge so it will log 3 hours worth of AFR, EGT, throttle position, rpm, boost and injector duty cycle. Then you can replay it in graph form, step through etc etc. Only drawback is the screen is pretty big, so finding a place for it could be hard. Mine is attached to a mobile phone mounting bracket that sticks out to the left of the heater controls. You'll need a restrictor ring to lower boost btw, and then turn it up again with the Profec.

The ABS brain is the metal case underneath those. IIRC the plastic box has ABS written on it because it's made from ABS plastic - probably where the confusion comes from!

Nah, stock BOV in the stock place. The hard pipe that goes in to the throttle body looks a bit strange and I dunno what that thing you can see between it and the battery is. I think that's the bit Paul means.

I think the other reason for having a dry sump is that the crank doesn't thrash around in oil so there is less friction in theory. I think you'd have to have an engine designed that way to start with really though.

Regarding the indicator repeaters, I have a WhifBitz front and didn't want to put repeaters in it because I think it looks much better without. I just stuck some temporary ones on for the MOT and then took them off again. TimWildman has a facelift with them in the wings too, on his it looks like they cut holes in the wing and fitted them when it was imported. Must have thought it was required for the SVA or something.

Stock Jspec facelift RZ suspension for me (which is to say yellow Billsteins and stock springs). Handles beautifully, there's a bit of turn in understeer but otherwise fairly neutral, just what you want from a fast road/occasional track car. The standard car can manage 0.98 lateral G, so Toyota knew what they were doing with suspension set up. I doubt you'd improve it unless you spent a lot of money and time or you were wanting a specialist track setup. It's a bit harsh and skittish on a bad road as is, I wouldn't want it any harder that's for sure. I don't find it rolls too much either for a road car - I find a bit of roll lets you feel what's going on better anyway. EDIT: You guys picked your second driver yet Tony?

Very nice! First order of business though - lose that rear foglight!

If so it's quite easy to move (probably!). Mine was way too high as standard with the WhifBitz nose (and probably most others too). I just got some longer bolts and alu tube to use as spacers from B&Q and flipped the L shaped bracket round at the bottom. That dropped it about 4 or 5 inches or so. Mine's a V spec Blitz LM but the mounts are probably the same. Looks very nice indeed, and an absolute bargain you'd have to say at that price.

Just buy a TRL one and do it properly. Otherwise you will end up with the steering too light, the air con fan blowing too hard and various other niggles. All these things rely on a speed signal and think you're going slower than you are if you just convert the KPH signal to MPH. The TRL one has a separate 1:1 output and 1:1 clamped (i.e. delimited) wire to make sure all this stuff still sees a KPH signal. Oh, and otherwise you probably won't be delimited, just limited to 180 rather than 112. It really ruins the steering if you do it wrong, makes it horribly light and uncommunicative.

It also takes the humidity out of the air, so if you switch it on when its cold you will demist much faster. The climate control controls the warmth of the air, so having the air con on won't mean you'll freeze. I have mine on all the time.

Yep, I haven't got these exact pedals, but they're all the same, you drill 4 holes in your clutch and brake pedals and bolt them on. Bit awkward drilling holes in your brake and clutch pedal. The throttle pedal you can attach using self tappers (which were included with mine) as the pedal is plastic. The good thing about it is that you can adjust where the pedals are in relation to each other to make heel and toeing easier before you drill the holes and bolt them.

Yeah right. I'm still going for Ash's "found a huge J and stuck in a cupboard" theory...

You'll be ok trying it at home, just don't try it in your car!

The Blitz one can be had for around £800, is bigger than the Greddy 3 row (slightly) and comes complete with all the pipes and other bits. Only snag is you have to trim the hole where it goes through the drivers side wing slightly, but it's easy enough. It was an easy decision for me.

*ahem* ...