SimonB

No, the timing usually refers to when the spark plug fires. In any case the mix of fuel and air is getting in to your cylinder at the right time, it's just got too much fuel in for that particular moment in time so some remains unburnt.

It's what I meant, just not what I said! . Perhaps I should have said it's the ratio of the time the injector is open to the time available until the next injection event. It's the valves that control when the fuel/air mixture gets into the cylinder of course.

Do you mean the removable baffle thingy or the actual backbox? I think the backbox contains some insulation and a metal grille as you say. Don't know what hold the grille in though.

It just means the percentage of the time available the injectors are injecting fuel for. So at 100% they are busy injecting fuel for the entire window available during the intake stroke and you can't get any more fuel in there. When you lift off suddenly the engine no longer needs all that fuel, but is already committed to injecting it so you get unburnt fuel in the exhaust gases, which ignite in the exhaust, causing pops and bangs.

Mine's a facelift and my terminals are fine. Could be VVTi onwards?

You tried Millhouse? I've got 500Mb of webspace, but a very stingy download limit as I found out when I hosted my Santa Pod video and my webspace got disabled for breaking it. Had to promise not to do it again .

If you're going to leave your car without starting it for ages you need a different type of battery to one that you want to provide loads of current for cold starts. Some batteries are good at powering a small current for ages (like the alarm etc when you're parked up for ages, or car stereos with the engine off) - these are the deep cycle ones. Most are good at providing a lot of current for brief periods - i.e. cold starts (the cold reduces the power of batteries). Then you get some that are good at both. One of the optimas is like that (can't remember which), but they are so expensive that unless you are planning on running your stereo for ages without the engine running or something I don't think there's much point IMHO.

I do love the Trial rear bumper - had my eye on that for a while now. I don't think I've ever seen one in real life. How much are they out of interest?

Basically they're more powerful (compare the cold start amps) and are sealed so they don't ever need to be topped up or anything. Well worth an extra fiver. I've got the Halfords HBC005 too.

Was that you I spotted in the car park up the hill behind Westover road in Bournemouth a couple of weeks or so ago? It was during the week in the evening - I left a card on your drivers door.

Happy Birthday! Expect you're out doing more Christmas Party style pole dancing by now...

I had my rear wheel bearing changed at Toyota back in May 02 (before I knew better and took it somewhere cheaper for this kind of thing!). I've got the receipt here. They charged 2.6 hours labour. Total bill was 386.50 inc VAT. Here was the breakdown: T90369-43005 Needle bearing 125.45 T90521-85002 Circlip 1.59 T90311-57001 Oil Seal 16.51 T42451-50010 Deflector, W/Brg 18.63 T90179-26006 Nut 1.95 T42428-24010 Plate, lock nut 5.69 T90252-04004 Pin, cotter 0.16 T90311-63001 Oil Seal 21.16 Labour 137.80 Total 328.94 + VAT = 386.50 Like I say that was back in May 02 so the parts might have gone up since then. HTH

It's a bit of a sod, yes. I just cut it off in the end - the handle and gaitor are one big bit of rubber as standard, so you have to replace both or neither! The gaitor attaches at the top to the handbrake handle (as they are both Momo). It only just stretches round the metal bit of the handbrake at the front - not quite a perfect fit. It's not fastened down by anything, there's an elasticated bit at the bottom IIRC, and it's just hidden by the normal trim. Here's a photo, you'll see what I mean:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/handbrake.jpg

More or less . Can't remember if I had the handbrake or not then. Having the seats re-covered makes a huge difference - it looks so much better now. I'm giving the interior some attention atm, I did the "blue led" conversion the other weekend too and I've replaced my tatty old chrome rings round the dials with shiny new ones. Just need some stainless steel dials when Pete gets a pattern off a facelift and I'll be there . Can't remember how much the gaitor was now, but it was quite expensive. Got it from L4Leather along with the handbrake (both Momo). I'm not sure it would fit anything other than a Momo handle.

I used a mount from http://www.dashmount.co.uk. I've got rid of the Snooper for now as the ariel connector broke and I can't be arsed to fix it - it looks better with just the E01 there anyway.

That would be me! Sorry, I didn't notice this thread till just now or I would have posted a pic earlier. Here's a better one:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/interior.JPG

If you do it yourself it won't be Thatchams approved, so you won't have a certificate or anything. That means you're going to find it very hard to get insurance.

What, that was you? All I can see in that photo is a disembodied head and Genna... I'm sure there were some other photos you took Ian, some of them seem to be missing...

Here here! Your bad dancing wasn't entirely voluntary though was it! Somehow I managed to avoid being "recruited". When I bought a drink near the end the girl behind the bar said we were the best function they'd ever had because everyone was laughing and having a good time. Which sums it up really Kev, are you still alive?

Yep, bacon sandwich. Always does the job...

Also the fastest known way to get rid of people who do phone up: "Hello, I'm calling from blah blah blah" "I'm registered with the telephone pref.."

I do now! Here you go:- http://www.simonshouse.plus.com/E01mount.jpg It's stuck on temporarily with those Pritt sticky pad things at the mo, which is what that white stuff is. I'm going to bolt it on, but I need to drill a couple of bigger holes in the mount for the Profec first to get the bolts through, and I couldn't be arsed when I stuck it on!

Setting up an Emanage to a basic level should be no different to a SAFC, they both do the same thing - i.e. change the airflow signal into the ECU. Sure you can do extra stuff with the Emanage, and there are various add ons you can have but you don't have to use that. It just makes it upgradeable. If you bought a plain Emanage with no extras it would only be what, 30 or 40 quid more than a SAFC? You'd have to get someone with the support tool to set it up for you as there'd be no display for that of course.

http://www.dashmount.co.uk do a bracket that goes to the left of the heater controls. I have my E01 stuck on one of those. Or you could try for in the drivers sun visor although I'm not sure if the cable would reach.

You might find someone has just bunged a new dial face over the old one, in which case you can just remove it and fit a proper delimiter/convertor. Worth a look before you order new dials.