SimonB

I've done loads to it last year. I started off with just a 1st decat and exhaust, had that setup for quite a while. Then I figured it was the time I'd normally have sold up and bought another car, but there was nothing else I wanted so I'd spend what I would have done on another car on upgrades! Trouble is once you get to a certain point you need loads of things to go any further (to do it properly anyway). I wasn't happy using the standard intercooler at 1.2BAR or more, so I bought the FMIC, 2nd decat and fuel pump. My clutch started slipping, so I had to upgrade that and did the flywheel at the same time. I had it on the dyno at Billing last year which confirmed that the fuelling wasn't enough for more than 1.2BAR. So I brought forward plans to sort it out. I've got an Emanage which currently is adding extra fuel in the mid-range of revs, but I'm at 100% duty cycle on the injectors at high revs. So I now have an Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure reg to be fitted, which I will use to increase the fuel pressure, then use the Emanage to trim the fueling back everywhere apart from where I need the extra. I've got a wideband to measure the air/fuel ratio so I can set this up correctly. Still got the standard Jspec 440cc injectors, internals and turbos. EDIT: That power run was basically running rather lean, which is good for power but not for your cars health! I was keeping it off full boost at the time wiht my right foot! It's probably putting out a bit less now, but it should be back up there when I've sorted my fuelling out properly.

LOL! Reminds me of another old saying: Before you critisise a man, walk a mile in his shoes. Then he's a mile away and you have his shoes...

Sorry mate, forgot to post up! I asked him, but it turns out the place only does powder coating, not full refurbs. He was thinking about getting his wheels blasted somewhere else and then taking them to this place to powder coat them, but he never got round to it in the end. So not much help there, sorry!

You don't need a boost controller - making the exhaust free flowing on a Jspec by decatting will increase boost as the standard wastegate can't flow the excess away fast enough. If you only want 1BAR you should get this easily by removing the first cat only and fitting an exhaust - then you wouldn't need a restrictor ring. You only need the ring if you remove both cats and find boost has gone too high (which it almost certainly would do). Don't get an induction kit unless you like the noise - they usually reduce power rather than increase it because they suck in hot air from the engine compartment rather than nice cold air like the standard airbox. The standard filter is not a restriction until you get to silly power. I started off with an exhaust and first cat removal, new plugs and a boost gauge (well actually a turbo timer with a gauge built in) - that gave me just over 1BAR IIRC and probably around 340bhp I would have thought.

I'd check your brake fluid level again - even when it's just about at max you seem to get this as the fluid sloshes around and triggers the warning. I should top it right up anyway.

You mean Goodyear Eagle F1s I think. They are very good, that's what I've had on mine the last couple of times. Fairly cheap too compared to some.

Didn't realise he'd bought Justin's old car! Shame, it was kind of cool saying we had an F1 driver in the club...

I had Contis on mine when I bought it, and they lasted over 15,000 miles and a track day!

I'm a pole dancer.

150 degrees! They're gonna get a whole lot hotter than that! Most caliper paint is rated to at least 400C.

They're about £250 each from Toyota IIRC. You'll have to get some facelift front indicators too, as the sidelights are in with the indicators on facelift cars, not the main headlight. I expect you'll have to modify the wiring too.

It looks like Nicolas Kiesa may be in-line for another F1 drive with Minardi this season. If you remember, he is a Supra owner - he has a mad single turbo car. He posted up a couple of times on here in the past, including a crazy video of him overtaking a load of GTRs on a track day round Silverstone... :flame Dev http://www.itv-f1.com/News_Article.aspx?PO_ID=31935

Is that the Halfords own paint that they sell in tins or the two part stuff? I bought some blue from Halfords the other day to do mine, but I think it's a darker blue than that.

Definitely Ebuyer, they are cheaper than Dabs by a fair bit. Also Dabs are a nightmare if anything doesn't work and needs returning. A friend of mine at work had all sorts of trouble getting a return code out of them - in the end he pretended to be a business customer wanting loads of PCs. They mysteriously replied to his email immediately then!

Thanks for that. I presume that's from the UK service manual? I wonder if there would be a difference between Jspec and UK fuel pressures? Has anyone with a fuel pressure gauge measured what the pressure is with the vac hose disconnected from the FPR?

I run 275/35/18 rears and the same as Rob on the front. He's right, the offset is 40 all round.

Ah, but it's got "sports rebuilt brakes". Presumably rebuilt by painting them red...

PMSL! Classic. I hope you gave him a card...

Much as I hate to say it Jake, seeing as you are the searchmeister, you wanna do a search - there was a thread not so long ago where I posted up links to pages from the 99 Jap sales brochures amongst other things. You can tell from your chassis plate what model you have, but I can tell you now if it's a tiptronic it can only be an RZ-S, because the RZ was manual only after the facelift. The only other models were the NA ones. Here you go.

They were standard on the facelift RZ, and optional on the other models.

Looks exactly the same as my EPC version. Some of the EPC pics are clearer than others I think.

Well, if the keyfob doesn't do it (it's the black button top right to disarm) then I guess it may have forgotten it and needs reprogramming into the system. You'll have to go to a Toad dealer to do that I think.

There's no mention of anything happening if you disconnect and reconnect the battery - I've done this many times and it's never gone off. You should always be able to disarm it using the keyfob. It does have a PIN code which you can enter by turning the ignition on and off, but the code is on a card which you get with the alarm, and it sounds like you haven't got it! In any case you should only need to do that if you have lost the keyfob.

Just done a search to find out what the stock static fuel pressure is. Only thing is, there are several posts on here saying it's 36psi, and several on Supraforums saying it's 43psi. Would it really be different on US cars, or is one of these figures wrong? Is there a definitive figure somewhere from a service manual or something?

No problem, we're using it at work to recognise air traffic controller's instructions and get the simulated aircraft to do the appropriate thing and read back the responses. You can train it to your voice, although with a limited vocab which you would have, it would have no problem. Some of the people we've had using it have very thick Scottish or Irish accents. Mind you, never tried a Welshy on there yet Seriously though, done correctly modern speech rec works amazingly well.