SimonB

Well, they would say that wouldn't they? I'm pretty certain the only reason police can seize a car in the UK is if it is uninsured or being driven dangerously. Or in an area which has a "no cruising" injunction passed on it. In theory a roadside emissions test could be done in which case you would get a rectification notice, fine and 3 points I believe. But I've never heard of it actually happening. That's assuming they would actually know what the correct emissions were, which is unlikely. Might be different for cars build after 2001. Anyway, thanks for the help everyone - I'm sorted now, MOT Friday pm...

Hiya mate, good to see you're still on here! Cheers for the tip, got the name of the place?

Hi guys, been quite a while since I've been on here! It appears my usual MOT place (the one Triton use) has stopped being decat "friendly" Which is annoying since I lent my 2nd cat out to someone years ago - can't remember who or if they ever gave it back but it vanished one way or the other! Does anyone in the south coast area have a sensible MOT place they know (you can PM me if you like)? I don't mind travelling a bit if I have to. Failing that is there anyone that can lend me a 2nd cat? Need to get the Supra MOTd before Le Mans...

That's completely correct, it would give better braking. But you can only use that better braking if the wheels are still going round. Once your brakes are slowing you to the point of locking the wheels you can't make use of any more braking effort.

Mass doesn't change. It's basic physics, mass is basically the amount of stuff an object consists of. Your bathroom scales analogy is wrong, the scales increase when you bend your legs because you are exerting a force on the scales in addition to the force gravity is exerting by your mass being attracted to the mass of the earth. Scales don't measure mass directly, they measure the force applied to them. If you stand still that force is just the force of gravity on you, If you press down on the scales that force is measured too - doesn't mean your mass has changed. The thing you're talking about regarding lurching forward is weight and load transfer. Basically the mass of the car wants to carry on moving - because the centre of mass of the car is above road level this tries to rotate the car forwards which puts more load on the front and reduces it on the rear - it exerts a force in the same way as your bathroom scales example. This also makes the suspension compress at the front and expand at the rear and pitches the car forwards. If you decelerate more quickly this force is greater. Nothing to do with brakes or mass.

This is a bit confused although the principle is sound! Firstly, acceleration is the rate of change of velocity, nothing to do with squaring. Momentum is velocity times mass. So if you assume your mass stays the same your momentum depends only on speed, nothing to do with acceleration or decelleration. If you are going twice as fast, you have twice as much momentum, not four times. What you mean is kinetic energy, which is the mass times the velocity squared. It's kinetic energy you have to convert to heat energy via your brakes to slow down. The bit about about momentum in a corner is wrong. If two cars (of the same mass) are both going the same speed they will both have the same momentum and kinetic energy no matter what happened before to get them there. The advantage of braking later is simply that you travel faster for longer before you brake, nothing to do with momentum in a corner. In any case, ABS triggers based on wheel slip. The tyres can only provide so much friction so if you try and slow down faster than that they will lock up. If your brakes are strong enough to make that happen then you have reached the limit of your deceleration, and no matter how powerful your brakes are you won't be able to brake any later. So if Jspec brakes could lock the wheels at high speed and keep them locked then the only benefit of bigger brakes would be repeated stops as somebody said already. But I doubt they could in fact, they just can't shed enough heat to get rid of all that kinetic energy when you're going fast! Of course if you don't go any faster with your extra power it makes no difference.

Of course you can, you just need the user name and password which you can extract from your old router as I've said. I've been using a different router for a couple of years now. The wireless on my original Sky router would shut down after 10 minutes or so if you stressed it by transferring a big file or something so I switched to a buffalo which is much more stable.

Yeah, you have to enable telnet first though, and then find the settings file with the details in. You can't just use the web based setup as they hide the login info.

If you already have a Sky router you can hack into it and get the username and password out and use another router no problem. If you have't got a working router to get the details from you can't do anything because Sky won't tell you them. The cutting people off thing is a myth, they've never done that but it does say you are supposed to use their kit. They see it as no different than your Sky box - because they control the specs they can support it.

It's a con that's been going on all round the world. See here:- http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-security/please-read-dont-fall-for-phony-phone-tech-support/e5576f0a-827e-4fc0-a4b1-707add212065

Were you in yours? Didn't spot you! It's been back on the road for quite a while actually - don't drive it that much these days though, weekends only pretty much...

I believe HKS rods are just Carillos rebranded, in which case they are very good.

Here's a pic of a new carillo rod. You can see the bronze bushing at the little end, and the two halves of the big end bolted together with no bearings in there...

In that case, go for it! The cost of the equipment is the only reason I didn't do it myself. The place to remove material to balance the rods at the big end is in red on this pic, and the same at the little end. (These are carillo rods)

The little end is the end of the rod that attaches to the piston via the pins. There is no separate cap - you slide the piston pin through the rod. The big end attaches to the crank and is in two parts or you wouldn't be able to attach it. The two parts attach with rod bolts - all this comes with the rod. The rod bearings sit in the big end of the rod and go between the big end and the rod journals on the crank. The main bearings sit between the main journals on the crank and the block on one side and the main caps on the other.

Not quite. The main caps are the bit that goes round the crank and attaches the crank to the block. The big end is part of the rod. Here's a pic from my build thread showing the 7 main caps:-

You basically shave the ends, either big end of little depending which way it's out. It's pretty hard to do properly without decent equipment like a milling machine. To balance the pistons you chamfer the pins - that way you can avoid having to machine the actual piston.

You really need to get the machine shop to balance the pistons and rods as well as the crank. You would need very accurate digital scales - it's not worth the expense of getting some. They should really balance the crank as a unit with the flywheel and crank pulley attached. When I built mine I got the machine shop to clean the block, head and oil pan/strainer etc - again they have the equipment to do this properly and much easier than you can. They bored and honed the block to the clearance I specified, did a very light skim of the head so it was absolutely flat even though it was in tolerance anyway. I also had them balance the crank, rods and pistons, port & polish the head, put new valve guides in and recut the valve seats. I also worked out the combustion chamber volume I needed for the correct compression ratio given the pistons and head gasket I was using and gave them that to make sure they had it right after porting. It's best to let them do all that stuff unless you have some serious equipment on hand. Then you can do the fun stuff - assembling, checking etc. There's a thread on my build somewhere. Edit: Here you go http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?142190-DIY-Engine-build

Here's a longer vid with some more info...

There are Maglev trains that work on the same principle - there's one in Japan. Trouble is things only superconduct at very low temperatures, so it takes a lot of energy to keep them that cold. Haven't seen the quantum effect that keeps it from moving before - normally superconductors repell the magnetic field and float above it. Very cool. I found an explanation for it on their website http://www.quantumlevitation.com/levitation/The_physics.html

Yeah, that's the one. It's the same principle as the main crank pulley, screw a puller in via the two small threaded holes. Something like this one, although this one might be too big:- http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht248-13-pce-harmonic-balance-puller

You need a pulley puller. There are two threaded holes which you can attach a puller to - it pushes against the centre of the crank and pulls the timing gear off. Unless you already have the gear off and are talking about the timing wheel itself, which is part of the gear - it's not supposed to detatch.

Just clean/degrease them and check the springs by poking them with something. They are there to cool the underneath of the pistons, they won't make any difference to the crank/rod lubrication.

If he bought it for a single then it would be different since the turbo is in a completely different place. It would only fit the particular turbo/manifold/pipework that it was designed for.

I have it on my Motec - same principle. I use the individual wheel speed sensors. I have it set currently to just do fuel cut because to do ignition cut you need to set it up really on a rolling road which I've never bothered to do. That's because you need to know how many degrees of timing pull equates to how much reduction in torque - then the system knows if it wants to cut 10% torque for example how much timing to pull. Ideally I'd have it set to do timing and then fuel cut. It works great as it is - just as good as RLTC but better in some ways because you can change the target amount of slip based on speed or gear etc. If it was set up to do ignition cut first I think it would be even better as I expect you wouldn't even notice it doing anything when you just have a bit of wheelspin.