Angarak

I have a space saver but i got the tyre sealer for my galaxy as that doesnt have a spare.

Already ordered some

Im also led to believe this having found out the expensive new tyre way!

Thanks for your input chaps

My scuttle panel is showing some signs of its age and im looking to sort it out. Im considering getting it hydro-dipped as it seems a fairly straight forward process. Has anyone hydro-dipped their scuttle panel and if so how is it holding up? I know I could use a plastic restoring gel or spray paint it but think hydro-dipping would be the best method in terms of longevity.

PM'd you regarding the TT suspension.

I like the FT-1 externally, but cant say I'm a fan of the FT-1 interior - who in their right minds thought that looks nice?

Try Paul @ http://www.plastics4performance.com/

From the pics it looks like yours arent oem tte caps as the logo would be in black on the oems. The part number for the oems can be found on the forums, i posted it years back on another tte thread. Im working away at the moment, but i may have a spare oem tte cap somewhere in the garage ...i wouldn't have a spare locking bolt for it though. Whilst other members have purchased oem caps in the past directly from tte in Germany with the part number, i believe another member was told he could no longer order them direct from tte anymore and the lexus dealers were less than helpful. If an oem will do and i have one lying around you can have it. Edit: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=1144469

Thats exactly how I look when i try to drive the Supra in the snow - with my arse end all over the road ....which is why I dont drive my Supra in the snow anymore (twitchy bum time)

I've had a look and I'll need 4 locking rings. How do you take payment?

Cheers Lee. At the weekend I'm going to check all the suspension to see how the other parts are looking and I'll get back to you. Do you happen to know if the larger platform rings are also gold?

Cheers Lee

Hi, Whilst fitting a new SMIC I noticed the locking ring below the spring seat on my HKS strut was broken - half of it was missing! As far as i know its the MK1 Hipermax suspension with the purple locking ring and spring retainer cap (no stickers in sight to confirm). There is a picture below showing a similar set (grabbed off google). http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/b2a543e059e551511334f107301d343a.jpg Are you able to provide replacement locking rings? Cheers Simon

Thanks for the replies everyone, its nice to learn something new. The clutch pedal feels normal to me (pressure wise) - no problem changing through the gears, so uprated or not Im not really fussed I just wanted to clarify it. Thanks Simon

Thanks for your input chaps, appreciate it.

Thanks guys, I'll get in touch with them

My car has HKS Hipermax suspension and whilst fitting a shiny new SMIC today I noticed the lower section of the alloy locking nut on the strut was partially broken off! I think this may have happened after hitting an unexpected pothole driving home from the GFs at night. The nut is still holding but its something i want to sort out ASAP for peace of mind. Is it possible to purchase these nuts individually so I can replace it or am I looking at a new set of suspension? As far as i know its the MK1 Hipermax suspension with the purple nuts and spring retainer cap (no stickers in sight). I didnt get chance to take a photo as it started raining and the car was on the drive. There is a picture below showing a similar set - I've doodled an arrow showing the lower section of the locking nut that has semi parted ways. Ive googled but just see complete kits Any help appreciated.

Refurbed my Clutch Master Cylinder today and so far so good

Thanks for this great guide, came in very handy today. Just to add, if you remove the lower dashboard panel below the steering wheel - you can then remove the black plastic heating duct that runs from the center console to the rightmost dashboard duct below the steering column. There is a single tiny bolt holding it in place (cant remember the size) but its not a job for anyone with sausage fingers as getting it back in when refitting the duct can be a challenge. Once that's out the way you can easily access the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder in place (photos attached) Tiny Bolt holding securing air duct: Easy Access To Nuts:

Apologies to all the rolling eyes out there at another insurance thread My renewal is up soon and in the 8 years I've owned my Supra I've always insured it on a classic policy with limited miles and agreed value of £9k (bought it for 12k). This year the price of a nice TT has appeared to increase (probably helped by a combination of people writing them off and the rising prices in Japan). If I were to sell my car today I'd hope to get 9 - 9.5k for it. I'm wondering if its worth getting another classic policy with agreed value, limited mileage and a higher premium - or if i should just get a normal policy and hope that in the event of a writeoff I get a good appraisal from the insurer based on the average market value of a low mileage TT (less than 40k miles). Do you guys think agreed value is still preferable given the market values of a TT? Im currently with Adrian Flux but I'll be drop kicking them having just had my renewal quote through. I appreciate your feedback. Cheers Simon

Hi all. Had to refurb my clutch master cylinder today so whilst bleeding the clutch I had a nosey at the clutch via the inspection plates. I was under the impression my car has an uprated clutch however I noticed it had a toyota pressure plate. I thought uprated clutches came with their own pressure plate? Is it possible I could have an uprated clutch with a toyota pressure plate? It is a pull type clutch on mine (v160 box) Cheers Simon

Thanks Keron

Cheers Josh, I'll nip to Mr Ts tomorrow. Is your clutch also aftermarket and have you topped your fluid to the OEM min/max mark?

Hi all. When I purchased my Supra it came with an uprated clutch and lightened flywheel (not sure on the brand). The clutch fluid level has always been around halfway down the reservoir - but since the clutch worked fine I left it. Prior to a recent MOT (which it flew through) I decided to top up the clutch fluid to the MIN mark. I have bled the clutch but now, usually when moving off in first or reversing, the clutch pedal stays down and I have to flick it back up with my foot. The clutch acts a little like an on/off switch, it isnt a smooth transition as you bring the clutch up in gear, the same when changing down gear. I'm thinking of getting a clutch repair kit from Mr T as they're pretty cheap and probably a worthwhile job on a near 20 year old car Question: I recall Chris Wilson commenting about clutch fluid ratios on aftermarket clutches being different to OEM spec which gave me the impression that maybe I dont need to top the clutch fluid to the MIN/MAX mark on my clutch. Could too much fluid cause the clutch pedal to stick down? The clutch was fine prior to topping up the fluid. There are no leaks that I can see. Cheers Simon