Angarak

No local garden centres near your Chris? ....they usually do them

Matt, Several traders on these forums sell 'sandwich' plates that sit between the block and oil filter that would be ideal for your requirements. They're around the £50 mark though. I've only got an oil temp one at the moment, so I placed my temp sensor in the sump plug. I may get an oil pressure one at a later date at which point I'd opt for a 'sandwich' plate.

They either hit pole/tree or had a run in with Godzilla!

PM'd

Cheers Jurgen, I'd appreciate that. Do you still have my address or would you like me to PM you? Regards Simon

I have 2 Blitz Mirror Drive Gauges in my car (boost / oil temp). Pete sent me his converted instructions for the boost gauge, which worked for both of them. See attached image - hopefully it will be of some use

If she thinks thats sad, she sould see this: :: Heres a funny Family Guy p*ss take of Thundercats: :: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X2K9XpYUMI

Yes, I have had the dials out and checked the 3 wires connected to the back, everything looks secure.

Thanks Jurgen, I've been in touch with Import Solutions for a price of a new one, its £45 I could do with not spending at the moment (just paid my insurance renewal in one go). I'm just after the installation instructions for now so I can get my head around how its spliced in, its different from the TRL instructions posted on some threads (presumably because its a different product). My speedo needle works fine, and I havent had problems with it since I purchased the car from you I've only had my Code 42 error since I removed/added some gauges (as posted here).

Does anyone here have a copy of the installation instructions for an Import Solutions Speed Control Unit (Universal Type)? ...or a password so I can access the instructions on their website? Cheers Simon

Cheers Graham - that would be great Hope Im not putting you out.

Im looking for a good picture of the stock ECU and loom in the passenger footwell (with the guard removed) for a TT (95 reg, 6 spd manual if thats makes any difference). I'm currently trying to track down a Code 42 Error, but my car came with an FCON piggy back ECU and there is a mass of wiring in my passenger footwell. Im trying to work out what part of the wiring is stock, and what is FCON related (there are more wires than you can shake a stick at!). Any pics greatly appreciated. Cheers Simon

Its from either The People or The News of the World.

Next you'll have paedo's trying it on - saying their lack of access to kids is torture, and killers with lack of victims to stab, shoot, etc. I couldnt believe my eyes and ears this morning when I put sky news on. I read today (in The Sun, so not sure how accurate) that no jails have been built in the last 9 years. The Blair-Witch partnership, selfish and spineless MPs, and other bleeding heart cronies have ruined this country, your now living in Not-So-Great-Britain.

Firstly, I have searched for Code 42 issues, and have come across some very useful information, which I have to the best of my ability tried to follow in the hope of eliminating my problem - but to no avail. I’ll give as much info as I can, so sorry if this post ends up pretty big: Situation: I have a 95 RZ TT Manual that is BPU and came with a speedo converter / delimiter fitted (which I believe was purchased from a company called Import Solutions). I've had it just over a year and its been great - no issues with the car at all (apart from the cost of filling up lol). I have recently removed my old boost gauge and an Apexi I-Monitor (some gadget that measures 0-60, etc). I have then fitted 3 gauges (boost, oil temp and AEM AFR). Since then the MIL light has come on with a code 42 error (which I understand is speed sensor related). Updated: 3rd December It appears to happen at 60mph regardless of revs or whether im on/off boost. I’ve never noticed any other lights flashing once the red triangle and MIL light have come on. The lights do not go out until I turn the ignition off. The car runs fine with/without the MIL light on. Solutions on this Forum From various code 42 searches I have come across the following possible causes: :: Active Spoiler Issue: My Active Spoiler has been unplugged at the ECU behind the radio since I purchased it. Since this problem has only happened since wiring in my new gauges, I’m not convinced it is responsible and I don’t know how I could further disable it. :: Speedo Converter / Delimiter: It has been suggested that this gadget could have ‘died a horrible death’ or a wire is loose. I’ve checked the wiring to make sure there are no loose wires (wires are soldered – the 2 crimped wires in the pic are now soldered). The speedo is working so I don’t think the unit is completely buggered if it is the cause. I could buy another one, but I’d like to try eliminating other possible causes first (ones that don’t cost a few bob lol). :: Odometer Speed Buffer: In the Code 42 Fix thread thread, it was suggested to splice the pink wire to the blue/red wire. However my pink and blue wires are already spliced in the speedo converter / delimiter (see pic). I didn’t fit the speedo converter/delimiter, it was on the car when I purchased it and as far as Im aware has been working fine for the year I’ve owned the car. :: Dry / Dodgy Solder on the Odometer: In the same Code 42 Fix thread, it was suggested that dry / dodgy soldering on the Odometer unit could be to blame. Short of forking out for a new ODO unit, I don’t know how I could confirm if this was the problem. My New Gauges Firstly, all the gauges are working fine, even with the MIL light on – so Im pretty confident I’ve wired them up right since the car didn’t burst into flames or anything. All wires were soldered to the loom whilst the battery was disconnected. The Boost and Oil Temp gauges take their power from the radio loom, so I don’t believe they have any relevance to my problem. The AEM AFR gauge takes its power from PIN 1 (yellow / orange wire) of the ODO loom (see pic) since this was the only ‘Ignition Live’ I could find nearest the AFR gauge location (its in place of the dash clock). Whilst finding an ‘Ignition Live’ for the AFR gauge, I did have the ignition ON with the top part of the dash (hazards / Odo / Warning Lights) unplugged, in fact I had all the dash panels unplugged as I was fitting a new dash at the same time. Could this have any relevance? I’ve read about problems with the airbag light staying on when you have the ignition on with the dash panels unplugged (although I haven’t had that problem). Is PIN 1 for the Odometer an 'Ignition Live' source or something else? (I tested for ignition live using a gadget that resembles a screwdriver with a ground wire and a bulb, which lights up when you touch the tip of the ‘screwdriver’ to a power source). If there is another possible cause that I’ve missed please point it out as I’ll look into it before admitting defeat. UPDATE: Problem Solved (disconnected PINK speed wire to ECU): http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=92818&highlight=code Cheers Simon

Here are some humorous p*ss takes of famous films (DivX Player required): :: http://www.howitshouldhaveended.com/movie%20list.html

Im a big fan of WROX books, they're well laid out IMO: :: http://www.wrox.com

I've seen training courses advertised in "VSJ", they have a website which may help: :: http://www.vsj.co.uk/ ...see the training courses link on the left navigation.

If your familiar with markup - use Notepad Frames can be a PITA when it comes to getting ranked on search engines as well as creating barriers with assistive technologies. If your not fussed about search engines or users with assistive devices then its one option. As mentioned, tables should only be used for tabular data, ideally you'd want to use HTML/XHTML markup with CSS to control the layout of the site. Tables bloat code as well as creating barriers for users of assistive devices. Dreamweaver is probably the best WYSIWYG editor, and if your not familiar with HTML/XHTML markup or CSS then its probably the best package to use.

Maybe their underwriters have changed the way aftermarket mods affect the price. Im currently on a classic car policy with Lancaster Insurance, my renewal was £100 more this year as the previous underwriter was "no longer suitable for my insurance needs". Slighty off-topic... I phoned Sky up and spoke to Scott (apparently Jae doesnt work there anymore, or he's at a different branch). Sadly they couldnt beat my classic car policy quote - but he said the are looking to offer a classic car policy next year. Hopefully they will as classic car policies are (in my experience) cheaper than normal ones (as long as your happy with limited mileage).

Hi Ho, Can anyone tell me what the supported MAX current of the odometer loom is in a J-Spec Supra? I need to splice a wire (part of a speedo converter/de-limiter) and was wondering if 8 Amp auto-eletrical wire would be safe. The 8 Amp wire I have looks 'meatier' than the stock loom...but looks arent everything (its what I tell the girls anyway) Cheers Simon

turbo.mp3 = classic

I stand sit corrected

I've recently fitted a HKS Superdrager (mk 1) and Im BPU, its quieter than my previous HKS Hypermax exhaust (both mild steel with stainless backboxes) Think you'll only get 'scare the kids' loud when using stainless/titanium exhaust systems.

Just go set the 'poor' chav area on fire...kill 2 birds with one stone as they say