Angarak

The car will sit lower than stock on CW suspension. Chris can machine them to be height adjustable but like everyone says best speak to the man himself.

Looks like painted zircoflex to me: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/zircotec-zircoflex-form-rigid-formable-heat-shield

I think in stock form they are diamond cut with anthracite paint. They look great on a silver car done that way.

I had Chris fit his custom valved Bilstein setup back in June. I'm very happy with it. It's a better ride than my previous HKS Hypermax setup.

Also bear in mind accessibility (catering for people with disabilities who may require assistive devices such as screen readers) is also important and should be implemented during the development of the website - not botched in adhoc once the site is designed.

Boost Leak or duff O2 sensor causing it to run rich with lumpy idle?

Just thought I'd mention this for our Scottish members (non-Scottish members may also fancy it) as it popped up on my Facebook timeline. There is a company called Apex Detail based in Renfrewshire who are running a competition to win 1 of 3 detailing prizes on their Facebook page. Its running for the next 2 weeks. https://www.facebook.com/ApexDetailed/ Disclaimer: This is not my page or business

...please ignore this post, made in error...

I dont think there is one for manifold to 1st decat, just use firegum, you can get gaskets for 1st to 2nd decat and 2nd decat to exhaust from one of the traders on here (CW, whifbitz)

Thanks again, thats useful to know.

Thanks for the info Matt, did you have any issues with powder coating fouling where the seals sit / piston sleeve / brake pads fit? I was thinking of painting mine when i come to refurb them with CW's kit, however yours look mint and im now tempted to go down the powder coated route.

Matt, did you split and rebuild before powder coating or did you get the split halves powder coated and then rebuilt? I'm assuming the former as opposed to the latter. Where did you get them powder coated?

We know him as 'Purple Aki' or 'purps' in sin'tellins A good read on him here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/resources/idt-6d083913-0bfb-4988-8cd8-d126fa6dcff1

There are 5 screws securing the odometer trim above the speedo cluster. The rest of the panels are clipped in I think (been a while since I've had them off). Once you've removed the odometer panel, flip the lid up on the storage tray to the left of the handbrake and then pull upwards to remove it. You can then remove the panel around the gear stick (i lift at the rear, then either side of the gear stick then the front). You should now be able to remove the radio/ac panel, then the speedo cluster panel and finally the ignition key panel. Im pretty sure all bar the odometer panel are held in with clips alone, but best check for any obvious hidden screws. Good Luck

Nice looking motor. First thing I'd do is take the dash panels off and check the wiring for the additional gadgets is safe. You see all kinds when Japs add 3rd party gizmos, from soldered/shrink-wrapped wires (good) to 'scotch' clips, to exposed wires just twisted around each other with no shrink/electrical tape.

Gearing info in this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=35923

If the wifi driver is an exe file right click and "run as administrator". Failing that, open a CMD prompt with Admin permissions and run: sfc /scannow ...to see if there are any system file errors. If SFC (system file checker) find errors but cant fix them you'll need to look at running DISM (google it) to check and restore health.

With the costs increasing, and most likely continuing to do so as demand out grows supply, would the cost of laser scanning the headlight into a 3d CAD file be more appealing in the long term? Surely a decent CAD company could solve the clear lense return lip issue by modifying the outer casing and producing a one piece lense with return lip? A durable mold for the clear lense could be made (with the lense being vac formed as opposed to injection molded) and the outer casing 3d printed. As the use of laser scanning and 3d printing become more popular costs should decrease in a competitive market.

Me personally, Id spend £22 on a legit Windows 10 Pro key and install it from fresh, it'll be quicker than upgrading and less hassle. https://softwaregeeks.co.uk/product/windows-10-pro/ Ive bought several keys from the above site and they all activated windows without issue.

I was under the impression that a clear lense would be illegal on a pre-facelift. Facelifts have a different reflector to the pre-facelift so the beam scatter would be different wouldn't it?

I thought the Whifbitz ones were made by RadTec who have a good rep.

It can also be the resin that goes milky due to UV rays if a UV inhibitor was added to a non-uv-stable resin and it wasn't mixed properly. If that's the case the only real option is paint. Hopefully its just the lacquer.

Thanks Raven, I'll go google for some supra loom images to see if I can see any of the clips.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=41927

@Nic Quoting from the creators article on installing the reader: "Please take note that some luxury and sports car, LS400, mk4 supras, SC400 and Soarer will need a jumper to be placed in another diagnostic port under the dashboard. Details for those cars are available in the application glossary dialog." Did you have to use a jumper as mentioned above?