Angarak

I've seen Silverlight used to create online magazines/catalogues with animated curling pages, though I dont have it installed anymore as it is no where near as popular as the likes of flash.

You may also want to get your website listed on http://www.dmoz.org under an appropriate category.

Paul Jr had a clause in his contract saying he couldnt build bikes for 12 months after leaving OCC, as that time has now passed he is working with Vinny building bikes. Vinny does still appear to be running V-Force too, not sure if we'll get a spin off show on them. OCC used to be brilliant, it was all about the bikes, now its all about arguing or watching one of them smash something up because they think its cool or funny. Paul Sr is a Grade-A prick (much like his sons), has no man-management skills apart from shouting and can only seem to build bolt-together bikes. I think the reason it went downhill is due to several reasons, (1) The yanks have very short attention spans and love conflict, so the show concentrated more on the family arguments than building the bikes, (2) as the company grew so did their egos and (3) they pissed off their skilled workforce who then left them (Im suprised Rick is still there, once he goes they are truly f*cked).

Thanks Chris, I'll look into it.

We've only got frost where I am, it doesnt make the scenery look beautiful, you cant throw it, you cant build anything with it....but you still have to clear it off the car in the morning....what is the point in frost....its like wasps...no point in its existence!

Are there any members here who own/service/work with kerosene fuelled torpedo heaters? A friend of a friend has a Salamander ("torpedo") heater that is fuelled by Kerosene, similar to the one shown below: http://www.arpielleequipment.com/productImages/b200t.jpg It's been working fine for ages and now its suddenly struggling to start, or, if it does start it switches off after 5-20 minutes and will then struggle to restart. To date I have: :: drained and flushed out the fuel tank :: put in a new spark plug (there is a good spark) :: put in a new fuel filter (fuel is getting through it fine) :: inspected the nozzle/injector for obstructions (none found) :: inspected the rubber fuel/vac lines for leaks (none found) :: visually inspected the flame sensor (cant see anything noticeable wrong with it) The flame sensor is a fail safe, if it doesnt detect a yellow flame in the combustion chamber it will shut the heater down. If I have the top of the heater off it will run all day long, however as soon as I put the top on it fails to start or doesnt run for very long. I'm therefore thinking that when the top of the heater is off less air is being forced through the combustion chamber due to it leaking around the sides of the combustion chamber.....giving a nice yellow flame (good air/fuel mixture). If the top of the heater is on there is minimal air leakage so it is creating an orange/blue flame (too much air). If I throw a towel on the back of the heater when the top is on, the restriction in air flowing in from the rear of the heater results in it starting fine and would no doubt run all day (until the towel catches on fire from the heat generated!)....but for H&S reasons this cant be a permanent solution. There is an adjuster on the fan motor that lets you tweak the vacuum which in effect affects the rate at which fuel is pulled through the system into the combustion chamber. I've had this from 1 extreme to the other and still cant get the heater to start and stay lit with the top cover on. Would anyone like to suggest the possible reasons for this? It's doing my head in, anyone who may have a solution please post up. I have thought of drilling some holes in the top cover to allow some air to escape to see if that helps to improve the air/fuel ratio but I doubt the owner would be too keen on that. Cheers Simon

As per title...

I thought I recognised it, with an AHMotorsport lump in it I bet it does sound the dogs danglies and doesnt hang around - not even for BPU Supras! Those composite body panels look familiar

I have it on good authority that the Group B Audi's would hammer the rally cars of today (they're alot more powerful and quicker). The 'good authority' I refer to is the bloke who owns several of the original Audi works rally cars and still runs them today in their original spec (HanSport). I've done some composite work on one of them and it is a magnificent beast in the flesh, as mentioned the sound is unreal, you can hear it coming a mile off. YouTube Vids: http://www.youtube.com/user/hansport

It was hacked on the XBOX 3 days before it was officially released, the PC version is based on a modified version of the same game engine used in World At War (the last COD title Treyarch did) and so the hacks are more or less portable from COD:WaW.

Hi Paul, Not sure how configurable the following is, but it is free and simulates upto 50 concurrent users: http://loadimpact.com/ ...blurb on features Found that through http://www.webappers.com/ - a great site to have bookmarked for web design.

Any help? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=1063244&postcount=4

The SP uses the Unreal engine, the MP uses the same Frostbite engine as Bad Company 2, only without a fully destructive environment. From what I've read on the official forums and been told by my mates, the MP is not as good as COD4 or Bad Company 2 (having played the beta I'd agree with that), the main issue seems to be that the maps are that small with some choke points that its a real campers game, there is also bullet lag where you think you're behind cover safely and then all of a sudden you're dead (once the hit detection catches up). The SP does sound awesome and Im very tempted to get it for that alone, the OP seems to have noticed what my friends have....that the SP looks better and is more polished than the MP, the conspiracy theorist in me would think that DICE may have made a lesser MP so it didnt rival Bad Company 2, after all thats not been out for a year yet.

Had mine done last week, car flew threw it without issue...only did 798 miles between MOTs.....I need to get out more!

is it the same video as last year or have they changed it a bit?

I played the MP beta, it wasnt that amazing, nothing new, just COD4-esque gameplay with new skins/maps.....spawn die spawn die spawn die....etc. The SP looks nice from the vids, but game publishers spend huge amounts of money on marketing a game to make it look good - Farcry 2 and Dragon Rising are 2 examples where pre-release media coverage looked awesome but the games where full of flaws and not really that engaging (Mario Cart was more of a milsim than Dragon Rising). I've learned not to pre-order or buy hyped up games on the day of release, but give it a while to read honest reviews from actual players as opposed to supposedly unbiased gaming review sites/magazines who do not dare to give a bad review for fear of not getting early access to future games.

Its worthy of a repost

Step 1: Tie some appropriate balloons to you're car Step 2: Give it death down the motorway driving your car like it is stolen ....if you've made a good choice in Step 1 you'll have something like this...... http://mooch.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/rocket_balloons.jpg

I've read that Logitech wheels (G25/G27) use potentiometers for the pedals which can fail over time (google it) due to wear and tear. The Fanatec GT3RS with ClubSport Pedals seems to get good reviews, though Fanatec are a small German company so not sure what their tech support would be like compared to Logitechs when a problem arises. The fanatec clubsport pedals dont use potentiometers and instead use something called "load cell" which makes for a more realistic pedal feel. The Fanatec is dearer than the Logitech stuff though.

Stay with the OEM bonnet and save yourself some money for something else (i.e seat retrim). The main purpose of CF composites is to save weight, however there isnt really much weight to be saved over the OEM bonnet. As mentioned already, £650 will probably get you a CF/GRP combo bonnet that isnt really a weight saver (its made from an outer layer of CF and a layer of glass fibre and bonded to an inner frame made from either CF or black-gel glass fibre).

Glad to hear you sorted it.

Just guessing really, but have you double checked your 3G settings to make sure they are correct for your provider? Maybe the update reset them to an invalid default value?

Do you PC guys know about the faulty ABS aid, whereby if you set it to OFF in the garage it will set itself to ON (despite showing OFF) when you drive onto the track? You have to set it to ON and then to OFF whilst on the track, then you'll have no ABS aid and you'll be able to lock up your tyres if you brake too hard (for those who want realism).

Cheers mate. Im in two minds to get this game for the PC, its following the same path as Operation Flashpoint 2 did - console arcade gaming experience and a shed load of game breaking bugs or poor design decisions. The Official Forums are full of ragers. Think I'll see if a patch appears that addresses the major problems before I part with cash. FYI Bug List (For PC Users): http://community.codemasters.com/forum/f1-2010-game-1316/429298-unofficial-f1-2010-bugs-errors-list.html

Is the Logitech G25 noisy when turning lock to lock? The only real difference between the G25 and G27 seems to be: (a) Price (b) Steering wheel on G27 is quieter lock to lock due to new gearing system © G27 has some extra buttons on the wheel Im just curious to know if I can live with the noise of the G25 or whether I should splash out on the almost identical G27.