dwayne

lots of discussion about it in general here mate http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?230133-PPI-claims&highlight=ppi

oops, i thought the vac lines would be the same

map sensor? http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8271/4524156037b9bbb8e95fo.jpg

ignore the red arrow, it was on there when i stole the pic from a google search

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/4576/vacuumdiagram.jpg

have you rechecked all the vac lines? closing one of them can make the power drop when you accelerate (think its the one going to the fpr). i'd go all over the inlet side following all vac lines till you find one you havent put on in the right place or has a split. if that fails you could post up a vid of whats happening to see if you can jog peoples memory if they have had a similar thing happen before

only info i have is this but i'm not sure if its any good to you http://sr20det.ru/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/HKS_SLD_T6-sr20det.ru_.pdf

ok, found it and i think its drivers side cos it has an 'R' stamped on it but it came from a headlight that was smacked and it is bent at the 2 points that attach it to the headlight. I'm sure it'll bend back easy enough though so if you want to try it pm me your address and you can have it for free

i'll take a look in the shed later, i normally hold on to random brackets and things like that. actually i think i have one but i'm not sure if its driver or passenger side so i'll let you know

I think Paul at whifbitz has mentioned he keeps these in stock so might be worth checking with him

i havent had that problem on the supra yet but every other car that i have had that problem with was sorted with silicone spray in the window runners. not a fix but it does help them to work better untill the parts are replaced

taking off the door card and taking a look behind is worth a shot. you might find the bar that connects to the back of the lock has come off

you will have to lose the centering bolts to adjust it (shown in nic's diagram above). you wont get anywhere without doing that, took me a while to figure why i couldnt adjust mine

had a car land on my chest once due to pulling too hard on a tie bar bolt with only a jack holding the car up. i also have a nice little scar on my thumb which i got from cutting a car in half with an axe

if by more power you mean a little more speed you could go down the lightweight road, it would help with handling and mpg too as a bonus

3 or 4 bolts under the bonnet, 2 when you open the door and 2 underneath on the sill. the headlights bolt to the wings so they will obviously have to be removed along with the bumper which also has 2 bolts holding it (you'll get to them by removing arch liners and/or headlights)

wasnt suggesting being stupid enough to put your pinkys though the spokes. i use the palm of my hand and should obviously have been more clear

no chance! T-cut will see it right though

by force mate unless you want to strip them, the methods said above will do it.

theres a thread here about rotting brake lines, maybe its that and the fluid is travelling along and dripping where you can see it http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?140112-WARNING-15-year-old-brake-line-rotted-through&highlight=corroded pics on page 2

you could try moving the car by turning the wheels by hand using the spokes. thats how i do it and its always worked better than trying to push. failing that just jack it up and free one at a time

i'd have to admit, i know its probably not the best thing to do but if everything worked ok before i found that i would be sticking it to anything close and forgetting about it

not on the alloy crash bar is it? on a quick side note...1000 POSTS!!! only took almost 6 years

the guy i got the car from was planning some big mods i think but never got around to the single turbo, clutch and better brakes. it has standard internals as far as i know but its full bpu with TDI stage 3 hybrid twins (turbos failed on previous owner so he bought these), HKS fuel rail with 1000cc injectors and pretty much everything else you'd need to go single. all the work was done at TDI cos when i got the car the guy gave me about 15k's worth of receipts for the parts and work carried out. i would like to keep the fcon assuming it will work on a single cos thats my future plans but i'm pretty sure just about everything i have on the car is overkill at the moment. there is no fuel pump in the receipts so i assume thats standard that price does look cheap compared to toyota so i guess i better get one asap cheers chris

also, you should check your IAT and MAP sensors works properly too. i just found my fault and it was just 1 sensor but with it being faulty the engine was running pretty rich and idling high at same time