Ring Master

I know mate, I know, I need suspension too, but is there enough demand ? I know Ibrah J wants a whiteline kit and you do, but im not sure how many other people do ? IS THERE ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE INTERESED IN JUNKING THEIR RATHER POOR STOCK SETUP IN FAVOUR OF THE WHITELINE ?

Be careful what you post, they may just take you to court for slander ! Anyone else had problems with this rip off garage ? ROFL !

I need to order the equivalent of 5 full kits to get a decent discount, so as long as we generate enough interest it is fine to buy single parts.

Yes, they have knocked the total shipping down from AUD$2000 to AUD$1300. Im going to do some calculations in the next couple of days and give you a final price on bringing the kits in.

I am amazed at how you have been treated by Toyota; if it was me I would phone that BBC complaints programme Watchdog, honestly, if you did, YOU WOULD GET COMPENSATION ! Otherwise, how about writing to Toyota ? Personally, I dont trust any garage to work on my car, unless they are dedicated mechanics for that particular model. Leon in Watford is ideal for supra servicing, half Toyotas hourly rates, and he knows the mechanical side of supras inside out (Leon 07956 285219); Stuart Sandy is another I hear only good things about and goes without saying, Chris Wilson if your in the Midlands is completely trustworthy and highly skilled. Those are the only 3 people other than Ash that I would ever let loose on my supra without me being there to supervise.

Dont forget, each cylinder runs at slightly different temps, so you either need to take a reading from the cylinder that runs the hottest (#3 "I think") or take a reading from all 6. Now 6 EGT's gauges would be awesome, especially if you bought from Shop!!, but I guess tapping into a place where you get a reading from all 6 is cheaper. My probe was originally fitted by CW, but Ash wasnt impressed by the mounting point and has moved it.

Blitz Technospeed Z1's, best qaulity wheels ive ever seen, looks wise they are pretty much the best too, but thats obviously down to personal taste. Last time I checked, my distributor had a set in stock for the supra, 18"; but they have the wrong offset to fit over the AP brakes. Will fit Brembos or UK or Jap brakes though. RRP is £2,770inc.....but if they are still there I am willing to throw in a full set of new Toyo Proxes ! BTW, have Toyo Proxes on my Corolla GTi and they seem right up there with the bridgestones.

Ash, Is detonation bad ? ROFL !!! Let me tell you a test id be keen to see. Perhaps Branners or Brian might take part, results would be interesting! Reset the ECU, go for a mild blast and take an ignition timing reading at the end. Then go for a mental blast running 1.4 , and test timing again. I'd be very keen to see just how far the ECU has retarded timing. Perhaps we could hook up the wide band lamda at the same time ? Ash, Branners , fancy a get together some time to do some real testing ? Beers on me....

Whether your car is NA or blown, it will be mapped for a certain grade of fuel. If your car is a jap import , chances are it will be mapped for 100ron fuel, ie ignition timing will be advanced enough to the point where detonation doesnt occur. Run 95 ron and chances are your ECU will pick up knock, take a big chunk out of your ignition timing, this will cause a loss of power and fuel economy. Give Optimax a go and see if it helps, dont 4get to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for an hour. Justin

from 14psi onwards your ECU supplies no extra fuel, this is due to the fuel cut defencer clamping the output signal from the turbo pressure sensor. At about 1.1-1.2 the rich mixture that was previosuly used to keep combustion temps down is no longer rich, ok, FMIC or H20 do a great job to compensate. Once over 1.2 your asking for trouble, i'd say the mixture will begin to get lean, probably not lean enough to kill your engine quickly, but thats probably due to the turbos making precious little power above 1.2 anyway! Dyno a stock mk4 at 1.2 then at 1.4 and id bet good money theres naff all in it, well, except at 1.2 your being much kinder to your engine. If Chris W reckons 1.4 is ok, I do hope he has done some serious testing for a/f ratio, det, pinking at that boost. JB and BJ (!!!) IMHO you will wreck your engine at some stage like I did,your car will off the road for months and youll be mighty naffed off. I hope im wrong Im going to order some valves and pistons, just in case

Ash can

Brian, As it is, your car is going to go *BANG* within a few thousand miles. Firstly, you *MUST* check your A/F ratio. Whilst the TRL FCD is a great bit of kit, !!YOU WILL NOT GET ANY ADDITIONAL FUEL ABOVE 1 BAR!! ok, a stock jap tt runs rich at wot with an a/f of just over 10 (perfect mixture is 12.1 methinks) but it wont take much to get this to 15 and beyond....good bye JZA80........... Please find someone with a wide band lamda and get your a/f ratio checked BEFORE you drive hard !!!! It will cost peanuts to get it checked. ps despite what anyone tells you, I do not see how you can reduce this severe boost creep with a boost controller, your only option is to put a cat back in.

Rich J are you there? HELP ! I have got my reply from Whiteline on their kits and I cannot understand how you paid £800 ! The full works kit is AUD$1,775 Add AUD$500 for air freight makes AUD $2,275 exchange rate say 2.60= £875 vat, duty , uk carriage x1.25 = £1,093.75 Now, thats is what I would expect it would cost to bring in the "full works" kit (springs, shocks,heavy duty bars,bushes). From my initial working, I could only knock off 10% from that figure if I sold to the public. Where am I going wrong ? Did you fly yours in ? Did they "fudge" the cost to save you VAT and duty ? tut tut.

Yep, I can highly reconmmend it too... I drove my supra 60 miles in the worst standing water you can imagine; when I got home I had a good feel of the filter and it was surprisingly dry. Seems the pig ugly stock indicators do a wonderful job of keeping the filter dry and free of muck. Only thing id advise is, say once a month, remove the HKS element (easy) and wash in petrol; perhaps spraying with induction kit dust repellent for good measure (must get some of this stuff!)

Top tip from Justin "Top Mechanic Foden" Masturbate 3 times per day, after 6 months your wrists will be strong enough to remove oil filters by hand. Atleast, thats how Supragirl manages to do it Seriously, with the correct "tools" you can remove the power steering pump in less than a minute.

Yes Gavin. I got a quick response from the guys at Whiteline, they require a purchase of 5 kits to get a decent "group buy " discount. Im tempted, dont mind keeping a couple in stock, so wed really need to find 3 willing people. I cant believe how cheap the whole kit is, its remarkable!

VERY EXCELLENT !!! ;-) Ash- yes the Stillen gear has arrived,beautiful carbon wings and goreous fitting front bumpers, due to be delivered Tuesday. Neon lights.....yeah, I new they were coming back in fashion all along. I fancy a blue neon in the boot to light up the NOS bottle, gold neons in the skirts and strobes in the front lights... Do you think ill get mistaken for a pimp ?????

Brian, If youd have ordered your exhaust from Shop!! you would have had it by now........that'll teach ya' I have a lovely Blitz Nur-Spec sitting here if you want it tomorrow.....fully stainless, removable baffle....

This ECU sounds like a dream come true !!! At some stage, when I eventually fit the HKS GT twins im going to have to change the ECU, run more ignition advance below 4500revs to help improve lag; also control larger injectors, and perhaps some sort of control over my neon lights and strobe ;-)

No, it didn't fix the puncture 8-( The glue wasnt strong enough to hold the patch on; got desperate and ended up holding the patch whilst trying to melt it on with a ligter , but just ended up burning my finger 8-( Might try and superglue the patch on next, but knowing my skills ill probably end up glueing my finger to it and being taken to hospital to have it surgically removed!

Thats dead right Paul, I didnt realise there was an "issue" about the UK instructions until Ash told me today, seems there has been some confusion here. If you want something in return for your 8 hours work translating the Jap instructions, perhaps HKS will offer you something for them? Of course, life would me much simpler is HKS translated them for us in the first place.

Brian, The Super Dragger you are buying comes in two parts, the stainless back box and a non stainless pipe which then joins to the CW de-cat pipe. You will notice a very nice BHP gain when you fit the SD. You should see boost rise to 1.1-1.2, CW's de-cat pipe at 2.5"d is designed to stop too much boost creep. BTW, it has to be said, the Blitz Nur-Spec not only has a fully stainless back box, but a fully stainless middle pipe and welding that made Ash go all gooey. Blitz Nur-Spec superior ? looks that way !

Its £530+vat+delivery , then i'll give you 12.5% discount, so all in about £565 I't wont be a stock item and will take 6 weeks for Racelogic to bring one in, so when your 100% sure about ordering one, ill take a £100 deposit and get it ordered. Might want to consider having a custom made decat pipe, I hear the NA supra is VERY loud with a full decat pipe and HKS/Blitz exhaust.

You are in luck mate ! Blitz do an exhaust for the NA supra n/a, its called the Blitz Realise TT range and its £13 more expensive than the Nurspec. Justin

Due to popular demand (and just in time for the silly season!) Shop!! is running another group buy on the RLTC full adjustable kit with laungh. No point wasting my time telling you all just how amazing this kit is !!!!! The nuttier you drive, the more impressive RLTC is !!!!!!!!!! Taking £50 deposits now, first deliveries in 6 weeks. The earlier you get your deposit in, the earlier you get your kit. Please drop me a mail on [email protected] for more details or oder though torqueic.com This will probably be the final group buy I run until the summer.