SteveC

Don't forget to keep your eyes on the road!

I've an AEM Tru boost gauge on my UK car, but of course it's set up for the UK wastegate, stock sequential UK turbos, 2 x 3" decats etc etc, so my settings will be different to what you need. Unless you find someone with exactly the same set-up as yours, then settings from other Tru boost owners will not be of much use to you. There's some good videos on YouTube by AEM on how to set the Tru boost gauge up.

I have read about changing ECUs to make OBD1 (or whatever they are) pre-VVTi cars into OBD2, but I've not seen anything about a bit of a rewire to get some info for the Torque app out of pre-VVTi cars. It'll be good if you could find the info.

Don't worry, if Apple get their way, it will eventually ONLY be available for the iPhone!

I've Torque on my Android phone and I use it with a Bluetooth adapter on a couple of other (OBD2) cars we have. I bought a cheap Toyota diagnostic port to OBD2 adapter off eBay to try on my (OBD1?) UK model. It fits perfectly, but sadly the set-up doesn't give any results on the Torque app - in fact, the Bluetooth adapter doesn't even show any signs of life - the LEDs don't light up. I didn't really expect it to work, but thought it was worth a try for a fiver for the adapter.

I installed a Clifford 650 with Intellistart, Smartwindows, various sensors etc myself. If you have a logical approach, can solder, have basic electrical knowledge, then they're fairly easy to install if you take your time to do it properly. If you have the slightest doubt about your abilities, then get someone else to do it and make sure they'll take their time and do it properly. There's nothing worse than a poor alarm installation to drive you nuts.

From Whifbitz. They're made up to order as opposed to being listed on the website. PM or phone Paul Whiffin for a price.

Some will say that 2.5" is sufficient for BPU, but I went for 3" decats and an 80mm system - just over 3". The more free-flowing the system the better (if you don't need a restrictor ring - as on a UK model), but obviously there does come a point with increased diameter where all you get is a loss in ground clearance.

Is there really any point bothering with the extra expense of 3" decat pipes if you need a restrictor ring? Whifbitz certainly do 3" decat pipes as I bought a pair for my UK model (restrictor ring not required).

As of 1st Jan this year, if a cat was fitted when the car was built, then if it's missing that's a valid reason for a failure - or so I've read. It all comes down to the garage you take it to really - how they interpret the guidelines, how they feel on the day, if they like you or not etc etc. Mine passes without any cat fitted at the garage I take it to, other places would possibly fail it. Why not just ring a few MOT garages and see what they say.

From the manual: EVACUATE AIR IN REFRIGERATION SYSTEM AND CHARGE WITH REFRIGERANT Specified amount: 700 ± 50 g (24.96 ± 1.76 oz.)

There's quite a difference between 2.4kΩ and 2.5Ω - a factor of 960! Did you mean 2.5kΩ? It's good that you've managed fix it though.

I test drove an auto, but then looked for and bought a manual. I thought the auto box was very good, and if I had been commuting in heavy traffic on a daily basis, then I *may* have opted for an auto; as I wasn't regularly doing many miles in heavy traffic, then it had to be a manual for me - and no regrets since over the last 11 years - even when in heavy traffic.

With Adrian Flux, you'll only actually have an 'Agreed value' after you submit photos of the car, plus a detailed breakdown of what's been done to the car and how much has been spent on it. When they (Adrian Flux) say 'Agreed value', it's what they say it's worth - it's what they agree to pay you back for a total loss. You could declare that your car is worth £10k, but they may come back after you've paid your premium and supplied photos etc and then say they'll only agree to an 'Agreed value' of, for example, £7k. You've only got an 'Agreed value' when you get paperwork back from them saying 'Agreed value £xxxxx'. I think to get an 'Agreed value' with them it's about a tenner extra. Never heard of Kinetic Insurance though - until today...

That's odd, it was still showing on their website this morning. Have you been in touch with MVP yet?

That's where I bought mine from. The company (Special Vehicle Services) was fast to send the BCC out and the comms were good. The Greddy BCC has also been reliable - so far!

The Greddy BCCs specifically for a MkIV Supra are still available in the UK from here for £73.89 plus shipping.

I'd get in touch with MVP and tell them what's happening. Unless they can tell you what's causing the poor running with the BCC you have, then they should send you a new replacement. Incidentally, the Greddy BCCs specifically for a Supra are still available in the UK - well they were certainly still available a few months back. I'll check. Thanks for the info.

Was the BCC new? Could you just exchange it for another? Is this the adapter type of scanner that works in conjunction with a mobile phone or a laptop, or is it a stand-alone unit? The reason I ask is that I was under the impression that a 1995 Supra was not OBDII and would only communicate with genuine Toyota workshop scanners or perhaps other expensive Toyota specific scanners.

IF you've got the voltage adjusted correctly, the wiring correct with good connections, and yet it only runs correctly with the BCC disconnected, then the BCC must be faulty.

At the top right of the page click on 'Settings', then on that page on the left-hand side under 'My settings' click on 'Paid subscriptions'.

Bear in mind that you'll only be able to post on here a few more times before having to join up for £10. (the posting limit before joining is around 40 posts)

About 30k in the 11 years I've owned the car, although for a few years I was averaging around 6k per year.

I doubt that any further adjustment to the BCC voltage will eliminate the hesitation towards the red line. On the basis that the car runs up to the red line without hesitation with the BCC disconnected, then I'd guess it must be either: a) suspect wiring/a bad connection, or b) a faulty BCC. Have you wired to the ECU connections in the attached diagram?

The voltage you've set it to would seem correct for the year, but are you 100% certain it's wired in correctly? You mentioned that you used an OBD scanner to read the fault code; out of interest, what type did you use?