SteveC

I'm sure it was actually called "Chemical Metal" and it's similar to car body filler, but harder. There are a few similar products and they come in two tubes, a resin and a hardner. You just mix equal quantities and make sure the material surface you're fixing is free from dirt/oil/grease. Lightly abrading the surface helps too. Halfords do sell the stuff.

I had a problem with the neck on my old radiator leaking. I fixed it with Chemical Metal which lasted for a few years until I eventually replaced the radiator (The Chemical Metal was still working great when the radiator was changed). It may be worth a try to keep you going until you either have it repaired professionally, or buy a new radiator.

Found the tachometer testing info. It's at 5000rpm where it shouldn't read below the actual rpm, but you can be see from the attached info, these tachometers usually read on the high side by around 10%.

The tachometers on these are known to read high and are classed as within tolerance even when displaying something like 10% (can't remember the exact figures) over actual rpm. I'm sure the figures are in the workshop manual somewhere. Once the engine is spinning at 3-4000rpm, the permitted tolerance is only to read high, not below actual rpm.

Don't forget, once you take your car to one of their approved garages for a check over, more likely than not, the offer you received online will be reduced by a good percentage based on some lame excuse - stone chip, small dent etc. I read an article about them a while ago and it appears they are simply looking for people who are desperate for quick money.

The microphone/sound level meter app combination on a phone are known not be very accurate, unfortunately. You'd really need a dedicated sound level meter to get an accurate result.

I had problems with a PCMCIA to RS232 converter, but with a very cheap USB to RS232 off eBay (around £3 delivered), no problems at all.

I found the stock TC to be very dangerous indeed. I was almost t-boned once when the TC cut in whilst pulling out of a junction . When I fitted the RLTC I permanently disabled the stock TC.

It's at BPU level, so I guess somewhere in the region of 400ish.

It was a little out of character for me (I usually only buy Toyota parts), but a few years back I took a chance on an aluminum radiator off eBay. I can't remember the exact price, but it wasn't much over £100 and I was surprised how well made it was when it arrived. It came quite quickly from China and, if I recall correctly, it is branded 'ASI' - or something similar. Fitting was straight-forward and I haven't had any problems at all with it over the few thousand miles since it's been fitted.

The spot checks at the side of the road are nothing to do with driving like a retard! It's the Police 'randomly' pulling vehicles into a lay-by and then the emissions are tested; they may also check the rest of the vehicle over - tyres, lights etc etc. I've seen numerous roadside spot checks, but luckily I never been pulled over... yet.

I've thought about fitting a sports cat - not just for MOT purposes, but just in case I was pulled for a roadside emissions/safety check. From what I've read on various forums, a sports cat doesn't always seem to guarantee an emissions test pass but, as with any cat, it must be hot to have a decent chance of passing. It would appear that with a roadside test they ask you to get the emissions problem sorted within a couple of weeks and retested (at an MOT station, I assume), but they could also issue a fixed penalty at the time of the 'pull'. For the sake of a few bhp, I think it may be worth having a sports cat fitted to ensure hassle-free motoring - at least as far as emissions are concerned. I'll look into this further next year. http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/publications/businesslinkwebpages/vehicleemissionschecksandstops.htm

Wouldn't your "txt spk" also qualify as 'text speak' then?

"txt spk"?

I'm sure that I read somewhere, that diff coolers were fitted to the UK/Euro Supras because the German Autobahns didn't have a speed limit. Based on that, then I guess Toyota considered it a necessary addition when the diff was under continuous high speed load.

I held out and kept mine as stock for over eight years. BPU'd it a couple of years ago and I wish I'd done it much sooner. The only slight downside is some insurance companies won't insure cars with a boost controller - Admiral, for example.

The back-up battery located in the sounder on Clifford alarms is only to power the sounder itself if the system loses the main battery power when the alarm is armed. If you disconnect the main battery whilst the alarm is either 'unarmed' or in 'valet' setting, then the sounder won't go off. When the battery is reconnected, the alarm comes back on in the same state as it was when the battery was disconnected - i.e., if it was in 'valet' mode when the battery was disconnected, then it'll be in valet mode when it is reconnected. These Clifford alarms usually only draw around 50mA when armed, so it shouldn't really flaten your battery to the point where it won't start unless you don't run your car for over a month. If the battery's going flat in much less than a month, then you've either got a failing battery or something else on the car is sapping the life out of the battery - perhaps audio or a hidden tracking device. I found two hidden tracking systems on my car which did the battery no favours.

6: Tt6 +bpu

Check your ECU fault codes. Not all stored faults bring up the MIL indication on the dash.

I use a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. They're said to take up to 90% more torque than stock - which I can't verify as my car's only at BPU level. I can say it was straight-forward to install and feels/drives like a stock clutch.

If a restrictor ring is being used on a J-Spec, then I can't imagine there's much, if anything at all, to be gained by using 3" decat pipes over 2.5". Re. noise, I use 3" decats with a Tanabe Medalion Touring system and its hardly any louder than the stock system - it just sounds deeper.

Had mine done by Chassis Clean late last year. They use Dinotrol and do a very good job, IMO.

No, it's the 2 x 2" sections that's the most restrictive. The 2 x 2" sections combined have a sectional area of 6.28 square inches, whereas the single 3" section has a sectional area of 7.07 square inches - around a 12.6% increase.

It'll almost certainly be bad contacts in the starter solenoid. I've just replaced mine after having the same symptoms you've described. I bought a repair kit off eBay for about £15 delivered. Just search for 'Supra starter repair JZA80'.

The spring rate on mine is set to around 3 PSI below the maximum boost I'm aiming for and it works well for me.