SteveC

Do you have a boost controller?

Mine doesn't.

That'll quite possibly be the reason it sounds like the gearbox is rattling then. Lightened flywheels generally equal more noise, apparently...

Could be the dual mass flywheel. Mine made a bit of a rattling sound until I replaced it with a new one.

I bought an ASI aluminum radiator a few years ago and I've had no problems with it at all. All the fins seem to be pretty well made and reasonably sturdy. The rest of the radiator appears to be very well made with good welding. Placed next to my well made £700 (or thereabouts) CW SMIC, there really doesn't seem much difference in build quality between them.

I assume it's reading high? I believe all speedos read a little high, and years ago I was told that manufacturers make them this way on purpose. I found that when I went to 18" wheels, due to the slightly larger overall diameter the speedo was that bit more accurate (the larger tyres increased the gearing slightly). At an indicated 100mph, mine's actually doing around 95mph. I suspect the only way of calibrating the speedo property, would be with an adjustable electronic device similar to a speedo convertor.

I've used one on the Supra a few years back when the system was pretty much empty and not blowing any cold air at all. It worked fine and only took a few minutes to do - and only took part of one can. The type I used had a gauge on it to get the fill level about right. That said, it doesn't cost hardly any more to get it done professionally. They suck anything that's left in the system out (including any moisture), pressure test it, then fill it with exactly the correct amount of refrigerant and lubricating oil. Many places do it for around £35 - £40. There's less risk of any damage that way and the system should then work as well as it possibly could.

Have a look at the photos in post 16 of this thread. The actual flap is within the heater unit. The arm that operates the flap can easily be seen from the passenger side (left-hand side) footwell.

I use a Centerforce Dual Friction - but only to BPU level. It works perfectly with the stock flywheel, no noise, seems to me as light as stock and, according to Centerforce, will hold up to an extra 95% torque. I'm sure I've read on here about someone who was using one without any problems with around 600bhp.

If Toyota had originally designed the front spoiler with a switch on the dash to only manually lower/raise it as required, I wonder if people would now ask : "Is there a way to make it lower automatically when you get to around 60mph?"

If it's just the selector seal that's leaking, then personally I'd just replace that. The output shaft can be done at any time - IF it does ever decide to leak. The gearbox doesn't have to come off to change the output shaft seal. When the gearbox comes off to change the clutch, then it is worth changing the rear crankshaft seal and the gearbox input seal whilst the gearbox is off.

It's worth bedding the clutch in fairly gently for at least 500 miles before you put it under any heavy load. You haven't been going mental with it, have you?! What does seem a little alarming to me is you've managed to buy a complete clutch kit for £165. Could this be the type that Chris Wilson mentions - reground used clutches that are out of tolerance and may never work properly? That may explain the slipping. I doubt it was installed incorrectly as it would be quite difficult to install one of these clutches incorrectly.

The guide is here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=61141

They don't just pull out, they need to be released. I've done mine and I used a very thin jeweller's screwdriver. There's a decent guide on here somewhere.

You'll be very lucky if you can manage to find a second-hand one that's in reasonable condition - unless it's one that was bought new just a few months/years ago. I bought a new one from Toyota a couple of years ago and the retail price was around £150 + VAT.

Mine had a very slow leak and a refill would last for about six months, but different refilling places couldn't locate the problem with dye or a sniffer. I suspected the condenser was past it's best and eventually installed a new condenser/receiver (about £250 from Toyota) and it's now fine.

Perhaps losing the units indication on these odometers is the digital equivalent of the numbers not lining up correctly on the old mechanical odometers? On the other hand, as mentioned earlier, it is probably (hopefully) just a faulty display.

IIRC, it was around £360 a couple of years ago. Not cheap, but it saved me and my garage getting covered in the stuff. Edit: I saw the receipt for work yesterday, it was actually £460.

It can but there's a few different types of Dinitrol. There's one that goes on the rusty parts (neutralises the rust), another that's good for exposed parts (floor pan etc) and another that's good for box sections. I had mine done professionally so I can't recall which type (product number) was used where.

Waxoyl does come in a yellow can. I've used Waxoyl years ago and it's OK, but what I've had put on this car is Dinitrol - and it is said by many to be far better than Waxoyl.

Auto or manual, it all done at the radiator and it's a fairly easy job. With an auto you will also have to check the transmission fluid and top up as required after the radiator is installed.

The radiator for cars with an auto gearbox has a transmission fluid cooler in the bottom and two connections for pipes. A manual gearbox radiator doesn't have this.

Sensor Type: Bosch UEGO LSU4.2 Accuracy: +/- 0.7% Exhaust Temp Limit: 1030C Cable & Protector Sleeve Temp Limit: 250C Connector Temp Limit: 120C Initial Warm-up Time: Less than 20 seconds Weight: 80 grams Heater Current: 1.2A at 12.0V (each sensor) Mounting: M18 X 1.5 thread, Torque to 30 ft-lbs 80,000 km for Unleaded Fuel 50,000 km for Leaded Fuel 0.15g Pb/l 20,000 km for Leaded Fuel 0.40g Pb/l Nominal Service Life: 10,000 km for Leaded Fuel 0.60g Pb/l

Checking back when I bought it, it was almost four years ago. The eBay seller was asi_performance. It appears the same seller is listing on eBay as selling JZA80 radiators from Australia, although I'm sure mine came direct from China and I'm suspect they're still delivered from China. The manual version is here. The auto version is here.

Sorry to hear the Chemical Metal didn't work. As I said previously, it kept my old radiator water tight for a few years. A new OE one is probably your best bet, but I fitted a new aluminium one off eBay which cost just over £100 delivered. It appears to be very well made, fitted easily and has been fine now for around three years. If at the time I hadn't been spending quite so much on the car, then I would have definitely bought an OE radiator from Toyota. As I said though, no problems with the eBay aluminium one, so no regrets from me.