SteveC

12263-46010 breather hose 1 - £6.69 + VAT 12264-46010 breather hose 2 - £5.81 + VAT As Nic said, mine split last week so had to buy the pair at £14.69 inc VAT

I was convinced mine was a suspension problem and that turned out to be just the boot lid rubber blocks.

Is it the standard alarm that was fitted when the car was new? If it is then you have a Scorpion alarm and they are prone to needing to be synced up or re-programmed - the alarm unit and the key fob remotes. If you are lucky, there is a way of syncing the alarm and remotes in the alarm manual that may work. It does sound like it is immobilised at present. I've had the same thing happen to me. If I can find the alarm manual I'll post the re-syncing info later - unless someone else posts it first. If the above doesn't work then the only option really was to send the the alarm and remotes to the company itself for re-programming. Unfortunately Scorpion no longer supports this particular model (the T5000 I think it is), so the alarm may have had it. I don't think Toyota dealers ever had the facilities to re-programme alarms themselves, but it may be worth an enquiry. For what it's worth, I ended up installing a Clifford alarm. Good luck. Edit: To re-synchronise the system: Stand within normal operating range and press and hold the ON/OFF button for a period of 10 seconds. This should re-synchronise the handset. Pressing the ON/OFF button a second time should flash the indicators and disarm the alarm.

It would seem that a combined kit of caliper pistons and seals is not available from Toyota, but the price for the seals alone is £36.73 + VAT for a front or a rear set (both sides), plus, of course, the prices quoted above for the pistons. Again, on the seals you may be able to get a bit of discount on those prices.

With having seen stainless caliper pistons mentioned, I thought it wise to make an enquiry before shelling out the biggest part of £200 for stock ones. If the originals had lasted 200k miles, then I wouldn't be in this position now! Obviously the seals must have perished a little, even though they looked ok. Hopefully the calipers will be good once cleaned up, painted and re-assembled.

Well, on the face of it, it looks like stainless steel caliper pistons are not available for standard UK brakes - at least going off the lack of replies here and from my enquiries elsewhere. I've now ordered a set of 12 standard pistons from Toyota, and just for reference for anyone else doing the job, fronts are (at the time of posting) £15.76 + VAT each and rears are £12.70 + VAT each - making a total of £207.83 inc VAT. If you speak to your local Toyota dealer nicely then they'll hopefully give you a bit of discount on top of the prices mentioned above.

Does anyone know if stainless steel brake caliper pistons are available (front and rear) for a UK Supra? I'm sure I've seen them mentioned on here somewhere, but cannot find the post again - although I'm quite sure there wasn't any price mentioned, or who sells them. I've got my calipers in bits at the moment and there's some rust on the pistons. I could just clean them up, but I suspect that they'll soon corrode again and new pistons would probably be a better solution... and stainless pistons would be better still. Any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. Like you, I was running late and just about to set off on a 30 mile journey for a Friday night out. Then the foul language started! I did mess about with both the remotes for a fair while. I've read elsewhere about sliding the switch that's on the side of the remote up and down and that sorting it out, but it didn't with mine. I also tried disconnecting the battery overnight and reconnecting, unplugging the alarm itself and reconnecting... I even tried praying. I've given up on the Scorpion and I've got hold of a Clifford alarm and I'm going to 'stick' that in instead. (It'll probably end up just as immobilised as it is now!! )

Thanks Wez. I did contact Matt a few weeks back (via PM) about supplying me with a new alarm system, but he didn't get back to me after his initial reply and suggestion that the alarm should be replaced with something newer (and better). I read somewhere on here that he's been a bit busy recently - changing jobs?

Hi, Not expecting to get much (if any) response to this, but here goes... My Scorpion T5000 alarm has failed again and there's no response to either remote. Last time this happened I sent it away to Scorpion, and a few days late I received it back with the remotes re-synchronised to the alarm - all for £24 +VAT. Unfortunately, on this occasion, my phone call to Scorpion resulted in being told that the T5000 is no longer supported by them... and they didn't even have any diagrams they could offer - they'd all been taken off their system, apparently. To get to the point: I've bought another alarm and wondered if anyone has a diagram of the T5000 wiring connections. I'm not expecting to find one, so I'll probably have to simply rip it out and start afresh. A diagram could save a bit of time on the installation of the new alarm though... Steve.

I've just looked for the other posts and photos when my car was spotted at ASDA in Preston as Gareth says, but the posts seem to have vanished!

I am....just don't visit very often!!

I eventually discovered that the same link on a Camry is for the ABS and should be present. I assume that this is the same for the Supra.

Whilst re-setting the air bag light in the diagnosis connector (Data Link Connector No1) on the left hand side of the engine compartment, I noticed a small wire link between WA and WB. I find it hard to believe that this link is supposed to be there under normal running conditions. Has anyone any idea what this link is for? I've done a number of searches but I can't find anything. Thanks, Steve.

Take the left dash panel off. As you turn the heater temperature control (with the ignition on), you should be able to see and hear the air mixing flap actuator arm moving through around 100° of movement from the cold to the hot position. This can be seen by using a torch and looking over the radio to the area behind the passenger air bag panel, on the top left hand side of the heater/ac unit. I checked mine on Sunday and it's ok. My faulty heater is now down to either: 1. A broken/damaged air mixing flap. (very unlikely) 2. A bad air lock. 3. The matrix is partially blocked (even though no sign of sediment) as previously stated, and it can't be cleared with a hose pipe or pressure washer. It looks like the drain cleaner option is next for me.

I thought that the Auto switches controlled fan speed and the airflow output vents only. The air mixing flap should be fully across to the hot position anyway if the temperature control was at maximum - I'm not sure if the internal cabin temerature sensor circuit would have any effect even if faulty. Reading the Toyota service manual at the moment - testing sounds like a Sunday job.

Thanks for checking the temperature Terminator, that has definitely confirmed my heater is performing poorly. It will be useful info for anyone else with a suspect heater. I forgot to mention previously that I had checked the heater codes and they were normal. I'm probably mentally trying to block out the heater may need replacing - but wouldn't there be some sign of sediment if it was partially blocked? I wondered if the cabin temperature sensor was sending an incorrect signal to the heating ECU and the system thinks that the inside temperature is a lot warmer than what it actually is, resulting in the air mixing flap not moving fully across. I'll check out the sensor and then will have to consider some serious flushing additive!

Thanks for the fast replies. I have already flushed the heater out in both directions, several times over a period of around an hour. Nothing at all came out in the way of sediment, just clean water. The pressure from the hose pipe is quite good and I also tried the pressure washer - although I doubt this would be any better that the hose pipe due to the lower volume of water per minute this can put out compared to the the tap alone. If I had seen some sediment I may have thought that the matrix could be partially blocked, but my feeling is that it is clean. As A last resort I will change the heater matrix - it would probably take me a couple of hours though.

Having read a number of threads and now completed a few checks, I was hoping that someone maybe able to confirm wether or not my heater is performing below spec. The heater is never hot even when the temperature control is turned to max and the fan on full (auto off). The engine runs at normal temerature - gauge always at half way and the heater input and output pipes are both very hot. I have run the engine hot with the radiator cap off for ten minutes or more to hopefully eliminate air locks. I have flushed the heater matrix out in both directions - there wasn't any sign of rust or sediment. The coolent that came out was very clean. The temperature control does move the air mixing flap and changes the air output temperature from cold to quite warm, but not hot like in other cars. When the temperature control is moved slowly with the engine off but ignition on, the air mixing flap can be heard to move right across the range of the temperature control. I have tested the temperature coming out of one vent (passenger RH) with the temperature control set to max and the blower on full, outside air coming in, and the maximum it would read with the thermometer sensor in the vent was 45°C (outside temp was 14°C at the time), an increase of only 31°C. This sounds quite a lot but by comparison with another vehicle on the same day (14°C outside), the vent temperature was well in excess of 70°C. The thermometer wouldn't read over 70°C and displayed HI. If anyone has a digital thermometer and can confirm that my heater is definitely working below what it should, I would be grateful. A solution to the problem would be even better! Apparantly this is going to be a very cold winter!!

Fair enough, I should have thought more before posting. I just remembered how frustrated I was when I couldn't get mine started and hit submit! The info came from the Engineer that repairs the alarms so I assume that it's correct.

Both pipes on mine get very hot within a matter of a few minutes of starting from a cold engine. Could the poor heat output still be down to a partially blocked heater matrix, or, is this more likely the air mixing flap out of adjustment or even something else?

Definitely sounds as though mine could be blocked then. In winter when a bit of cooking is sometimes what is required after a spell out in the cold, the warm breeze from the heater isn't overly impressive! I'll try flushing it out. Thanks.

The heater on mine gets quite warm, but never what I'd call hot like in other vehicles I've driven. I've always assumed that this was down to the heating system being climate controlled. Should it get as hot as a none climate controlled system and therefore likely to be caused by a partially blocked heater matrix?

Mine was exactly the same. As mentioned above, a new radiator cap sorted it for around £12.

As I said previously, I tried Optimax for over 2000 miles (plently of time for the ECU to adjust) and I couldn't detect any performance improvement at all. There wasn't any noticeable reduction of performance when I went back to 95 RON either. At something in the region of a fiver a tankfull extra, there didn't seem any point in carrying on using Optimax; especially getting less MPG. If I couldn't notice the "improved responsiveness" etc, how could I be convinced that this stuff would make the engine last longer, run cleaner etc? I don't think Shell would have had to use the "Dream cars" promotion to sell Optimax if they were that convinced that once drivers tried it they would then use nothing else. I've nothing against Shell but in my experience Optimax was no better than 95 RON in my Supra. Maybe someone has seen some sort of fuel test report?.