SteveC

Watched a very interesting (and well put together) programme this dinnertime on YouTube called 'Brexit the Movie'. https://youtu.be/eYqzcqDtL3k

Thanks Wez, didn't know about it, it was interesting.

OUT. I also believe that the EU is on it's way out, regardless of the result of the UK referendum. It's odd, wherever I read comments online the vast majority appear to want to leave the EU, yet the results of the various 'official' polls usually show the remain side as ahead. Very suspect.

If you can test the current drain whilst the car is not running with the alarm on and off, then that'll give you a better idea of what's going on. If you can't do this yourself, then any electrician should be able to check this with a multi-meter in a matter of a few minutes. As I said, mine draws around 50mA with the alarm on. My alarm is a Clifford with quite a few sensors, so it possibly takes a little more current than a more basic alarm. Some time ago I found two trackers concealed in the car. They were also drawing current, which didn't help. You could also have a tracker hidden away somewhere.

If the battery is definitely good and all connections are good, then something worth bearing in mind are the solenoid contacts in the starter motor. These can cause intermittent starting problems. Kits are available to replace these for a tenner or so. As for alarm drain, I know mine draws around 50mA - including the clock and stereo memory etc. This equates to around one eightieth of the battery being drained per day. If you then had a battery that wasn't 100% (pretty much any battery that isn't brand new), then it would only be a matter of a few weeks before the car wouldn't start - less than that if it's particularly cold. I put my battery on an Optimate trickle charger every couple of weeks just to keep it topped up. It can be left on all the time and mine often is.

If you're not happy about more immigrants coming into the UK, you can sign a petition here. On the other hand, if you're happy for more immigrants to be allowed into the UK, you can sign a petition here.

There's an e-petition about having no confidence in Cameron's handling of the Calais Crisis: https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/105402

Does it blow out cold air when it's switched on? If so, then just use it. :-) If it doesn't blow out cold air then it'll probably be low on refrigerant - either down to just gradual loss over the years (normal), or a leak. Take it somewhere to have it filled back up and they'll tell you if it has a bad leak or not and they should only refill it if the system appears good. A check/refill is about £35 - £60 depending where you go.

I would never consider buying another car without aircon.

For reference, the full thread that includes the photos above is here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=49871

Unless the wheels are fairly new and you can prove when they were bought, then I doubt you'll have much luck trying to get anything out of the wheel company - but there's certainly no harm in trying. Here in the UK, some people successfully claim against whoever maintains the roads if the damage was caused by a pothole. See here.

I built a small camera into my rear number plate which displays an image on the CD head unit screen once reverse is selected. I don't rely on it, but it is useful if I have any doubt about what's behind (particularly low down) and how close it is. With the camera itself being black and located within one of the black letters in the number plate, it cannot be seen more than a few feet away and so looks neat. The camera was only around £15 and works very well.

Without a boost controller on my UK model (all other BPU mods installed) I recall I got around 1.05 bar - which is about right. I've no idea how you could get 1.2 bar without a BC. Could your boost gauge possibly be inaccurate?

This is what I was referring to in my last post. All Supras that are running correctly (and with new lamba sensors) will not pass a correctly performed cat emissions test without a cat fitted.

Roger, is it not a case that your MOT tester is one of the 'friendly' variety? Mine hasn't any cats installed and what you might call the 'official' printed emission readings (cat test) show a pass, but it actual fact it wouldn't pass is done exactly by the book... and it has brand new lambda sensors, runs very well and returns good MPG. If all Supras should pass the cat test emissions without cats, then why would many people bother to refit the second cat if their MOT station wasn't that 'friendly'?

I believe some Supras may not need to have the cat test, but not all. My local MOT tester showed me the official info that stated that my '95 UK Supra was supposed to pass the cat test.

Bought one a few years ago and it was around £250ish.

If you can't get it sorted yourself, then Chris Wilson (who is a member/trader on here) is probably the guy you need. Chris is located around 30 miles from Chester.

I'm sure Chris will comment for himself at some point, but I'm reasonably sure that he said his uprated clutches are good for up to around BPU level - but not if abused with daily drag races etc.

Centerforce Dual Friction. Feels like stock and supposedly can take knocking on double the torque of the stock clutch. Fits to the stock flywheel and no rattles or odd noises. I put one in a few years ago (BPU car) and no complaints whatsoever.

Thanks, but I would prefer not to pay annually or monthly! I would prefer to pay towards road costs when my car is actually being used on the road and directly in proportion to the fuel I use - a few pence on every litre of fuel I use. There are numerous benefits to this as mentioned by others, and when a car's parked up in the garage, then we wouldn't be paying road tax on it.

Another vote for simply putting a few pence on a litre of fuel and doing away with the annual payment.

Have you by any chance recently tried to jump start the car from another battery? If so, was it OK prior to trying to jump start, then after the jump start attempt you had this problem?

Putting a voltmeter across the battery when the engine is running would give a good indication if the alternator is OK or not and if the belt is sufficiently tensioned to turn the alternator enough. A voltmeter should indicate 14 - 14.5 volts with the engine running. I'd of thought that Halfords would have done that for you. If the belt was that loose, you'd have a warning light on the dash. You may have something on the car that's dragging the battery down whilst it's stood. Again, a fairly quick in-line current test with a meter would let you know if that was the case. Your battery could still be on it's way out even though Halfords say it's 75%. The battery may indicate OK shortly after stopping the car (like at Halfords), but it could have an internal partial short so it goes flat of it's own accord. Personally I doubt the alternator itself is faulty. Can't recall reading about any that have failed. Regardless of the above, however the battery is being flattened, repeatedly flattening it will definitely end it's life very quickly.

I used a Rawl bolt in conjunction with a slide hammer and it came out fairly easily.