SteveC

I'm fairly sure the clock temperature gauge uses the same ambient temperature sensor that the aircon uses.

Try giving the gauge a gentle tap to see if the needle returns to where it should be. If that doesn't work, try disconnecting and then reconnecting the power to the gauge.

With you saying: "Cost would be as before", I assumed you were referring to the cost back in March this year, rather than as far back as October last year. Looks like I'm as good at picking the right time to buy intercoolers as I am at picking the right time to buy shares. ...excellent intercoolers all the same.

Great Chris! I assume then that those of us who received one of your SMICs back in May this year, should be looking forward to receiving a refund of £40?

You're right Chris, I should of course said about the different size of F&R pins in my post above when I quoted one part number. For some reason I just assumed Mathew was talking about the front calipers. Front pins for UK brakes are part number 90240-06019 Rear pins for UK brakes are part number 90240-06017

Assuming you mean the pins that hold the disc pads and anti-rattle springs in place, then yes, there's two pins on each caliper. Part number 90240-06019

Now you mention it, I'm do vaguely recall that the 'TRAC' side of the brakes may only be present on UK, US and Euro cars. Perhaps someone else could verify this? The TRAC system connects into the ABS and operates the rear brakes in conjunction with the standard Toyota traction control. The bleeding process I used on my UK Supra was as in my post above and very straight-forward.

Here's a Toyota pdf of bleeding the TRAC system. Just make sure the top connection (pin 1) of the three connections is connected to NEGATIVE, and the bottom connection (pin 3) is connected to POSITIVE. If you get it the wrong way around the TRAC system will empty the fluid into the brake reservoir rather than actually bleed the air out of it. I bled the brakes from being completely empty using the 'traditional 2 man method' (without the engine running), then bled the TRAC system using the info in the pdf document. The brakes were great afterwards. Good luck. Trac Control System Bleeding.pdf

'Bump To The Top' would be my guess.

The wiring looms on the original Clifford 650 and the latest MkII version are definately different. I've had both.

Yes, it would appear that around 20% more torque is required for the 60° cone type nuts. There's some good info here about wheel nuts, studs and spigot rings.

I've got a new and unused MBC available. The boost controller itself is made of brass and looks pretty well engineered. There's also about 3 feet of silicone tubing, 6 cable ties, 6 self-adhesive fasteners and three pages of instructions with diagrams. £15 inc delivery. Steve.

£250 offered.

Thanks Branners, but they really sound a bit too low for me. I was hoping that the drop may only be 15 - 20mm max. Good luck with the sale.

Do the TRD springs lower and stiffen a UK car much? Would you be interested in selling just the springs on their own? Thanks.

If you're doing around 30mph and it's indicating 40mph, then there's something wrong. However, I know when my speedo is showing 100mph, really the cars doing 93-94mph (on satnav). All speedos are slightly out and always - well, should always - read fast.

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I'm really not expecting to get hold of a 3" 1st UK decat anytime soon, in which case I'll just use the 2½" version I already have. Thought it was worth a shot though...

I've already got a 2½" 1st decat pipe for a UK model ready to install very soon, but I just thought I'd see (before I start the job) if anyone had a 3" version available.

I suppose everyone's opinion of 'loud' is different. The XS Power exhausts are certainly cheap enough and look the part - that is, if you don't mind a bit of noise and you have understanding neighbours.

I too was a bit confused by those figures. I guessed that the first figure is the psi improvement with some oil down the bores, and the second figure is percentage of leakage.

The XS Power exhausts (they're actually made by another company) are certainly cheap enough and appear fairly well made (currently on eBay at £208 delivered), but almost everything I've ever read about them on here and elsewhere indicates that they are very loud...

Looks to me like those figures have been rounded up or down to the nearest '5', so in actual fact they could, in reality, be a little closer than they appear. Those figures may not be ideal, but they're not that bad. I'd go with Tom's advice and just run the car for now and bear in mind that you may need some work done in the future. Just keep an eye on the compressions every few months and see how it goes.

Have a look at this thread. Paul has them on special offer at the moment.