SteveC

Without a written and signed receipt for a deposit on the car, then you've somewhere between little and zero chance of getting anywhere with this. I'd just keep track of a few cars he's selling - particlarly those that are a bit on the expensive side and not moving. Then I'd phone him up one Monday, ask loads of questions about one car, say it sounds perfect, then finally say you'll be coming at the weekend to pick it up at his price - no haggling. Give him your phone number and just wait for him to call you about the car he's been struggling to sell and thought he'd got a buyer for . You can then take great pleasure in telling him you've bought something else when he calls you to find out where you are with your money...

When you turn the temp control, both of the lever arms above and below the heater unit should move - but it does of course depend on the ambient cabin temp at the time. To test the movement, turn the temp control from one extreme to the other.

It's a good few years since I looked at that part of the the heater, but those photos look correct. I haven't access to my main PC at the moment to look, but somewhere in the Toyota workshop manual (downloadable on this site somewhere) it tells you the range the lever should move through. From memory, I thinks it's something like 100° - 110° of movement.

Yes that's right - the panel around the radio. Just take it off and look at the top of the heater unit. When you alter the temp setting, the arm and mechanism should move. There's always the possibility that it could have become un-clipped There's a rod from that arm that connects through the heater unit down to the air mixing arm in the first photo. If either one is un-clipped, then the heater won't work correctly.

The arm in the picture above controls the air mixing flap. Have you also checked the other end of it? (viewed from the left dash panel - when removed). IIRC, the top side of it controls the water valve.

If you do want Sky in your new house, just ring up and ask for cancellations. When they ask why you're cancelling, just tell them you're moving home and the new place doesn't have a Sky installation - and that you can't afford to have a new dish installed . They'll certainly give you free installation to retain your monthly subscription.

Personally, I don't think £275 is peanuts taking into account this model came out almost 2 years ago - and it's secondhand. If you paid over £500 1 - 2 months ago, then I think you paid well over the odds for it, really. If your dealer will give you £400 back for it, then I think that'll be the best you'll get for it. There's one on eBay ATM which has been listed again as it didn't sell last time. It's currently still sat at £399 with no bids... Good luck anyway.

I'll offer £275 (inc delivery) via PayPal based it being a DNX5220BT still in as-new condition without screen defects or dead pixels, with original box/contents plus the retailer's original receipt for warranty. Would have offered £250 if gaz1 hadn't already done so, because this is now almost a 2 year old model - and very soon it will have been replaced twice (current DNX5240BT and soon to be released DNX5260BT). If you're not interested (or if I buy something else before you respond), then good luck with the sale anyway.

stevie_b, I hope your heater also turns out to be such a quick fix - and again, thanks for the comments. I had pretty much given up on mine a few years ago, after reading all the comments on here saying that the problem was almost certainly down to the heater matrix with an immovable partial blockage. Apart from spending hours outside in the freezing cold trying to flush the matrix out (only to find perfectly clean water coming out), I also drove the car a few miles away and parked up on a very steep hill, left the engine running for ages with the radiator cap off, in the hope that it would get an air lock out of the system - which also turned out to be a complete waste of time! I've done it before, and most likely I'll do it again - that's just dive in at the deep(ish) end without thoroughly looking for the simple solution first! It could have been far worse I suppose; I could have just taken the dash completely apart and bought a new matrix instead.

The problem with faulty heaters Chris, is that most of us only appear to try and sort them out when the weather gets really cold! It's not so bad if you have a heated premises to work in, but it's not so great in temps below freezing point - especially knowing full well that you could have done the job in Summer! Good luck with the Jeep heater repair. Isn't there any good info as to the quickest fix on any Jeep forums? Or, would a complete s/h heater unit be a good option - if not too expensive?

I'm very pleased that my post turned out to be useful to you... and thanks for the comments.

I think you're looking for a 382 type fitment. There's a site here where you can check bulb types. I tried red LED bulbs (I recall there were 36 individual LED's in each bulb) in the tail/brake lights and fog lights, and I wasn't too impressed. The light output was pretty poor and I doubt they would've passed the MOT. The standard tungsten bulbs were far far brighter, so I put those back in - but I guess LED bulbs could well vary from brand to brand.

On a clutch there aren't lateral forces - assuming the clutch and flywheel are correctly in balance. The spigot bit that sticks out from hub itself is only a few mm deep, that's why most spigot rings are only around 10mm deep. Some sellers of alloy wheels do say that the spigot rings aren't really necessary and are only for wheel centring, but I don't buy that myself. I don't think they're that bothered if your car handles like sh*t, tyres catch the wheel arches, or if the wheels studs shear off!

If you didn't have the spigot rings, then all the weight of the car and the forces applied to the wheels would be totally relying on the wheel studs - and as the article says, the wheel studs weren't designed to take 'shear' stress. I personally certainly wouldn't risk not having correctly fitting spigots rings fitted, but ideally I'd prefer wheels that were machined to match the car in the first place - 60.1mm. Like you say, we can all agree to disagree.

Some interesting reading here that says that the spigot should take the weight of the car and that the wheel nuts are just for holding the wheels on.

Nylon eh?! It did look to me like it was metal - and I'm sure I read somewhere that it was metal. Oh well, perhaps I should have had some glasses on! It's just as well I was very careful. Petrol certainly didn't have any adverse affects on it at all, fortunately...

Try this - it worked for me and the symptoms on mine were pretty much the same as on yours. The small metal mesh filter in the bottom of the reservoir gets blocked up with something or other over the years and so needs cleaning out. It's quite possible the fluid isn't getting into the system properly. I took my reservoir off the car and cleaned it out with petrol, using a half inch paint brush gently on the mesh filter. A few good rinses through with petrol, then left to dry out. After that refit, then refill and bleed the system. (I'm not sure if petrol is the best option, but the reservoir is all metal so it shouldn't cause any problems if completely dry when re-connected) Good luck.

Sorry, I don't know anything about these devices, but are you fairly sure that it was in full working order when you bought it? If not, you could potentially be trying to trace a fault that has nothing to do with your own work...

That's good... what was wrong with the horn then? Was it something to do with the connections on the after-market steering wheel? There are the full Supra workshop manuals somewhere on here to download - if you haven't already. I've attached diagrams of the door locks and windows which may be of some help. Door Locks And Windows Wiring Diagrams.pdf

There's not a lot to the horn circuit, so hopefully it shouldn't be too difficult. I've attached a pdf wiring diagram just in case you haven't already got one. Horn Wiring Diagram.pdf

Connecting the battery the wrong way around would also cause the 120A fuse to blow (plus a couple of other smaller fuses - and, if the ignition was on at the time, I believe also the igniter pack could possibly fail). The 120A fuse is part number 90982-08271 and around £14 or so from the Toyota dealer.

The Toyota garage I used to go to claimed they didn't charge a fixed price for servicing the Supra because they never sold them in the first place. They said only Lexus dealers had the fixed priced servicing info for Supras because it was only Lexus dealers that originally sold the Supra in the UK. I don't know how true that was, but the Service Manager seemed a decent enough guy to me. I've not been back to a Toyota dealer for a few years now as I returned to doing the work myself. Going off personal past experience of checking shims on other cars (with no excessive noise from the cam covers), I found that the clearances were so close that changing the shims wasn't really worth the bother - which tied in really with what the Toyota dealer said.

I was told much the same thing as above by the Toyota dealer (Preston) - they don't usually check valve clearances as stated in the maintenance schedule unless something sounds amiss. The Service Manager said it would be just a waste of time and money.

The minimum width you could use will come down to the weight of the car, type of tyre used, aspect ratio of the tyre and the pressure in it. I'm sure there'll be some formula for it. Chris Wilson may be able to give you a good idea of what's the minimum width to use.

It's really more to do with the actual wheel/spoke design and offset, rather than the rim width - at least as far as brake clearance is concerned.