SteveC

If you ever have the time available and manage to get this forum back on Tapatalk, then it would be much appreciated. This forum used to work very well on it (for me, at least), but I do appreciate that sometimes the towel just has to be thrown in...

I've moved home since this list was drawn up. I'm now located in Lancaster.

I had a vibration problem with steering shake following a set of new wheels and tyres. I had all the tyres refitted, swapped over and, in total, balanced 6 times on 3 different machines - they always balanced perfectly but still the vibration/shake. In the end it turned out to be a defective Goodyear tyre from new. I got a new set of tyres last year, problem solved. The vibration problem appeared around 70 mph, so it would seem that tyre balancing machines don't spin the wheel up that fast - I seem to recall about 40 - 50 mph?

Same order... again: 1 - The last four words in particular - "Rule 123 of The Highway Code looks at 'The Driver and the Environment' and states that drivers^must not leave a parked vehicle unattended with the engine running^or^leave^a^vehicle engine running^unnecessarily while that^vehicle^is stationary on a public road." 2 - Yes, I agree, we all have to make our own decisions. ... and I've now decided that it's dinner time. [emoji4]

Same order: 1 - No, it would appear to apply to public roads only - having just checked. 2 - If people took too much notice of your comment above, then no one on this forum would ever mod their car! The reliability of electrical/electronic components isn't simply down to how large of a company did the development/manufacture. You must have heard of many cases of large/well-known car manufacturers recalling vehicles for various issues such as electrical/electronic component failure causing various serious conditions. When decent quality aftermarket components are added to a vehicle, whether they be mechanical or electrical/electronic, the main concern is the quality of installation/testing. That is what usually causes most of the problems.

Beat me to it!

Again, same order: 1 - Personally, on the occasions that I have used the remote start, it has never been on a public road. From your extract of 'The Law', it sounds as though a turbo timer may be illegal also - if used on a public road. 2 - People 'rely or choose to rely on the integrity of a few electrical components' every time they drive a car.

Re. 1 - I've had a Clifford 650 alarm with remote start installed for years here in the UK. I've informed the various insurance companies every time and not one of them have ever questioned it. Re. 2 - If a Clifford 650 alarm with remote start is correctly installed, then it is impossible to remote start a manual car whilst in gear.

I had to replace my HIDs with halogens for the MOT. I asked what was wrong with the HIDs. I was told by the tester that there was no problem whatsoever with the light output, beam pattern, brightness, colour temperature; it was just the fact that the headlight unit had not been designed for HID bulbs. Even thought the correct beam pattern can be produced with decent HID bulbs and standard projector headlamp units fitted to many cars, a blanket instant fail was brought in if HIDs were fitted to headlight units not designed for them. The tester himself thought it was a stupid rule.

A dual mass flywheel can rattle a bit when switching off the ignition if the car has a good few miles on it. Mine did until I installed a new flywheel.

Yes, it's now £80 for a 10 year retention. I'm fairly sure that years ago it was £100 for 1 year's retention, so at least something has got cheaper. https://www.gov.uk/keep-registration-number

"On retention" means that the registration number is allocated to youon a certificate for 10 years. You can either put it on a vehicle within that period and then keep it as long as you like, or, prior to the 10 years 'on retention' period ending, you can renew the retention for another 10 years so that you don't lose the number.

As far as I am aware, all electronic boost controllers can only boost the No1 turbo on the Supra sequential twin turbo setup.

I use an AEM Tru Boost combined gauge/controller on my UK car. It's easy to set up and works very well - but I should add that I haven't experience of any other boost controllers.