robert_gray

Do you still have the skirts for sale dude, interested if you do

Im interested in the side skirts if you havnt sold em yet

Id go for an electric aerial if you still have one.

If these are still up for grabs i'll take one too 1. M5W TT - Ariel, Bracket and extension 2. Havard - Aeriel, Bracket and extension 3. jazz1 - Aeriel, Bracket and extension 4. Nige- Aeriel, Bracket and extension 5. AndyT - Aerial, bracket, extension 6.Ultra_supra - Aerial, bracket, extention 7. pa06has - Aerial, bracket, extention 8. Captainchaos - Aeriel, Bracket and extension 9. Hoff - Aeriel, Bracket and extension 10. Colsoop - Aeriel, bracket and extension. 11. Supra_Dori - Aerial,Bracket and extension 12. Marco - Aeriel, Bracket and extension 13.magictorch - Aerial,Bracket and Extension 14. Newgendesign - Aerial,Bracket and Extension 15. Robert_gray - Aerial, bracket, extension

managed to get there eventually:search: http://www.boreme.com/boreme/funny-2007/the-idiot-test-p1.php enjoy

did you manage to get this sorted? I have the same error code poping up but only when stationary idleing in park or neutral. I'm gonna try and get the three sensors, Crankshaft at the bottom of the engine and the g1 g2 at the top.

Surely all the big gas guzzling cars will still be made but not sold directly to the EU market, at which point importers will have a field day. Try they might but people will still get round it.

bump

No its defo the right engine, looks the same as everyone else's (minus mods of course) it's a 1995 N reg bytheway

Out of curiosity i just decided to do a data check on my soop and it has come back stating that my car is a 2600 and not a 3000 as it should be. [sHOCK] im very bemused!!!!

Just out for a walk and saw you go past just down from the firestation. Just wondered if it was a member on here.

Are they hard too look after? What else can you put in with them without death occuring? or are they more of a solitary/1 species beast?

It is the C1 model but i dont think that it a genuine one as it fiberglass. What do you have in mind for the swap?

I have aquired a Veilside front bumper from off a friend of mine who crashed his supra thus unfortunatly not now having the need for it. Before i decided to go ahead and get it fitted i checked the fit first and found out that it is supposed to have to overfenders to match. Not being bodywork minded would it be alot of work for the bodyshop to cut down the ends of the bumper to suit or would it be worth getting the overfenders?

thats just how it works. if you stamp on the power and dont let of the TC cuts in and stays in. if you stamp on the power, realise the TC has cut in and ease of a bit it also eases off and gives you full power

Just to get this right its a 12mm thread? but what is the external diameter of the pipe. Email me the response to [email protected] as i should be at work at 6 thismorning and not chatting ont tinternet

Arr yes, you would be right. Hops clouded one's judgement. if this is true then drilling to the right size wont make a difference as the thread will still remain, or you will drill the thread out of your wheel hub. hopefully someone can weld something to the top of your nut. If not im unsure on what can be done, dont know how the thread is secured into the hub of the wheel. could to allthread through the hub, or could have been machined as one piece

Never said it was good. Would prefere it not to be there as i can control the sideways action, only leave it on for time when im not paying attention

Yes, screw fitting. If you look at your fitting in your picture,its the same at the bottom, but the top you just push in. put "push air line fitting" into google images. Same sort of thing. Screw into the existing end, and just push the pipe into the top. What is the size of the pipe bytheway?

Not 100% on the customer service but the contracts are good. even woth it if your in a poor 3g area. better than orange

The auto's arnt too bad. you cant have to burnout feeling of a manual cus you cant pop the clutch but ias far as roundabout/tigh corners are concerned you can hold it in the gear (1-2-3 overdrive) you want. so long as you want full bore as you have no finite control on the clutch.

I have too agree with you on this one. When the back end does step out its due to a bit too much right foot. Im also runiing about 320-350(not sure was told 400 as sale but disbelieved from the start) but sliding, if you know what to do, is well taken care of by the traction control. The only drawback is knowing when the TC is going to cut in. Have found myself lurching to the other side of the road before now cus the TC has cut in before i know it

Just had a better look at your pics and by the looks of them the loking nuts dont seem to be damaged. With an impact wrench and your adapter they shoud come off. By impact wrench i onabout the handheld ones you hold in your hand and hit with a hammer and not the one's that they put on the end of air lines

unfortunatley by ther sounds of it we ALL work for them.

What a proper engineer would do would to weld something (a nut maybe) internally to the stud. If its a good weld them it will turn. If not the he would drill the stud (in the middle) and try EASY OUTS (as prescribed in earlier post). Befors this he could maybe try heating the whole area, This would expand the stud aswell as the whole area around the stud. This would expand the stud but also the area arounds the stud. The stud should then contract qiucker than ther surrounding area and, maybe loosen the stud, so that it can be undone. If uit has beeen drilled in the center then it can be drilled out to the point that the stud will break up. If not the spark erroding is your only bet. This should get the pin out leaving the tread intact.