Phil Wall

The ATF Type II fluid mentioned in the above link, is now replaced by ATF Type IV.

The plug drain should be OK you will take out around 2l of fluid and replace it with nice new stuff. I am not sure if your box has cooler pipes going to the rad, if so you could do the complete change covered elsewhere on the site.

According to the OM, The engine should be left running for 20 seconds after continuous driving at 50 mph, 1 minute after continuos driving at 63 mph, and 2 minutes after continuos driving over 63 mph. I normally set my timer (HKS) to one minute when I am parking at home as I have about one and a half minutes of 30 mph driving. The most difficult place is motorway services, as you come from high speed to stop in a very short time so have no cool down motoring. I usually set the timer for four minutes or more depending on the boost levels I have been using.

Yep it is usless and will get you into trouble. It always cuts in too much and too late and leaves you with no power to correct things afterwards. There is a much superior system. RLTC Just checked your post again and notice you have a UK spec, so your TC has a brake function as well as cblocking the induction, but I believe that UK spec owners are not impressed with the stock TC either and many have RLTC fitted (Edited by Phil Wall at 8:49 pm on April 14, 2002)

There are several other threads on the BBS regarding auto fluid and changes. You should find the info you need in these threads. When I did my fluid drain a refill, I found it hard to get a reading as the dipstick kept picking up fluid from the sides of the filler tube. I found that by doing several checks it was possible to discern a straight line below some dry patches. Remember to keep the engine running while you take the readings or the fluid will drain into the sump and give a false level.

The MKIV box takes Type IV fluid, most Toyota dealers will not have heard of it. I had to get mine form a Lexus dealership.

Not sure what you are getting at here?

I have decat and a mushroom, the induction noise is loud.

12264-46010 12263-46010 Thats the numbers on the spares I have.

It is a leaky valve, the one by the rad, very, very, very, slow leak. (Edited by Phil Wall at 7:31 am on April 14, 2002)

The engine line must say: 2JZ- GTE The turbos are a bit of a give away too;)

I have had parts come from Belgium, and they came within the week. The parts coming form South Africa take a little longer

I was checking over a friends car, the aircon is not working correctly. The diagnostics suggest a number of things including the switch. I just wanted to check all connections were sound, before going any further.

Where will in need to look for the A/C amplifier. More specific than behind the dash! please. Where is the A/C pressure switch.

Do you have a web address for this item Adam?

I'll have a set of four please. Are you saying that it is not a DIY job to change these bushes?

OK that sounds like perfection, how do I get it?

I am car sitting for a friend, so currently have two MKIV TT's on the drive:cool: His car is on coil-overs, wound down too low, for every day practical use, but looks low and mean. Front 310mm Rear 344mm As far as I know mine is stock @ Front 380mm Rear 350mm Both Jap spec cars Due to the front end overhang and cantilever effect, of the set-up of the car on coil-overs, the height of the stock J-spec number plate carrier is reduced by 100mm.:o (Edited by Phil Wall at 8:59 am on April 9, 2002)

NA mkivs were sold with 8" all round but none of the twin turbo cars would ever have been sold with 8" all round. JB DOH.

As far as I know a RLTC unit has not lost its settings after a long power down period. The unit comes from RL with a dat file in the memory and is often without power for weeks before fitting to cars. So you should be fine. If you send me a copy of your file I can check it, for you.

I would forget it. They would have to be in very good condition and with loads of rubber for that price. The Supra was never sold with 8" rears as far as I am aware. You may be able get close to stock 16" rolling circumference by careful choice of tyre. JIC do have 16's but then you get what you pay for. IMHO most of their wheels need a referb.

Surely the lambda figure must be from the test centre machine, otherwise it would be possible to rig the test.

In MANU mode the auto locks into 3rd in D there is no 4th or overdrive, according to my handbook. In normal mode ie MANU off, the box will only change up to 4th if it is warm and OD is on. If you use MANU and the box gets too hot the MANU light will flash and the box will revert to normal ie automatic changes.

Brian, I only have a UK manual, but according to that the Fuel pressure regulator is underneath the throttle body, looks like you have to take the TB off to get at it, there is no data just physical check. Martin might be able to scan the appropriate pages (EG 308 to 312) to you, sorry I have no scanner at home. However the VSV for fuel pressure control, which is mounted just below the throttle cable bracket should have a resistance of 33- 39 ohm at 20 degree C I the main Oxygen sensor on the Jap spec is on the mainfold just before the first cat, the procedure for checking is fairly complex and too detailed to post here, again you need a scan of pages EG 376- 378.

I fitted mine with the help of some digi pics from Martin. It is not difficult and an essential if you are increasing boost. My old one cat system; first cat in, second cat out replaced with HKS pipe, and HKS Hiper cat back system, was boosting to 0.95 Kg/cm or 13.5 psi, just below stock fuel cut in 20 degree ambient air. At 3 degrees ambient air I hit 16.5 psi well over stock fuel cut. With the removal of my remaining front cat and the addition of a very well made, Chris Wilson, front pipe, the boost potential has shot to 1.45 Kg/cm or 21.05 psi which is a tad on the high side . So I am keeping my foot off a bit at the moment until Chris knocks up a restictor plate. (Edited by Phil Wall at 11:10 am on April 5, 2002)