ManwithSupra

If you are thinking about keeping/increasing its value then i would suggest you keep it as stock as possible. Its a clean looking car though, very nice. Things like UK brakes etc I dont think would affect the value... but anything that isn't "stock" will effect resale price to the purist...

Hi all.. Looking to replace my coil packs (I may have one starting to go bad) and not sure if I should just go OEM/Denso or use something like the Whifbitz uprated set... Not sure if its actually going to make any difference OEM vs Uprated tbh...

Hey all, did some nice testing on Friday.... so you finally get to hear what the sequential gearbox now sounds like...

The thing is everyone is entitled to their opinion, this is mine and yes i guess it is one sided, however as a MKIV owner it should be one sided... I am a Toyota owner and this is supposed to be Toyotas Flagship sports car a replacement to the MKIV, a true Toyota through and through... when Toyota annouced that BMW was "helping" (more like dictating) the development of it I started to feel it may never turn out to be the car that it should be given BMW want to keep their brand above Toyota, they always have. Although as stated, I kept my view of it "open minded" until the proper release (just look at my previous posts on here), in the hope that Toyota were more involved then I thought they would be, but no I was right in the fact that BMW are the ones dictating what the car should be to Toyota. Why else is the new Z4 faster with more power, its so the BMW Z4 Sales wont be damaged. They will be using the Supra "name" to pull customers over to BMW as they will indirectly market the Z4 a Supra alternative (as it has the same chassis) but with more power! Its a win win for BMW and nothing but a loss for Toyota all whilst pissing on the Supra name. I wont be doing a 180 on it, Even when I go and test drive one (which I will be doing) I doubt it will convert me enough to go and spend £52k on one. I frankly could not care what Chris Harris, Top Gear or whatever think of it. The Media just push cars they are paid to push, Toyota will supply the funds to do so like they did the GT86 and we all know the big flaw with that car.

I know right, mods are not going to sort the interior for a start. I got a comment earlier that 99% of people who buy sports cars end up modding them anyway.. lol what? The thing is a good car should not need modding before you drive it off the forecourt.. The big thing for me is that interior... its actually jolting... that is a great comparison with the C7 and MK4, the new Supra Interior is just plain awful... One of the big things about the MK4 was the sweeping driver focused dash... it shows that Toyota have simply ignored the basics... I dont think I have ever seen such a shambolic hyped up release of a car in all my life.

Thought i'd share my review of the car... https://www.hawkemotorsport.co.uk/Store/index.php?route=blog/blog&blog_id=47 They really missed it with this car... like by a long way.

What a vacuous waste of space! I bet you he was texting on his phone and realised too late and therefore was unable to swerve as he only had one hand on the wheel. I hope your insurance company requests the data activity from his mobile network and get the police to take his licence away for 12 months.

Its funny I keep getting requests to do a vlog on this via social media, never done that sort of thing before lol.

Cheers for looking into it mate, I too keep drawing blanks. Its clear that there must be something physcial causing the issue rather than the software as like you said its pulling fuel right from the start and the condition gets so bad once the injector duty cycle increases as it warms up it cant adjust any longer and shuts down the CLL. Either it has to be a bad FPR or a stuck injector... it has to be something hardware related. I was looking at the FPR and it does seem to work, at being just shy of 38psi when idle and around 44 psi on WOT. There is no fuel in the vac line which means the diaphram is in tact at least. I am placing my bets now on a faulty injector, ether stuck open or it firing randomy due to a short. The thing is I dont want to adjust the fueling until I test everything out as it will just be masking the issue and worse still maybe making 5 of the cylinders run dangerously lean.

Here's also a good one. When routing around after checking the Fuel pressure reguator for signs of leaks in the diaphram I noticed this odd noise coming from the Injector area... The Ignition is on but engine is not running as I am datalogging from the Syvecs ECU ... sounds like an injector is firing by itself, if its not an injector what the hell could it be and could it be releated... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiZIMGGVblg

Did you want to see the config file?

Performance 1 Coatings... not heard anything good or bad about them though, I had them saved in my bookmarks when I was looking around too. I dont think its the same as Zircotec though You need to find a place that does Plasma Spray coating as thats all that Zircotec do.

Was just thinking, I have 4 settings on the car for different power levels. I wonder if that could be causing the issue? - Although probably not.

Here is the syvecs log file created today 2018-10-19 15-48-16 plus 0h00m00s S6#0115.zip

Can do, I will upload it when I am at the workshop tomorrow.

This has actually got me thinking, if I have a bad batch of fuel would it cause this issue? I wonder if I should drain and replace with some fresh v-power just to make sure.

I am not sure, how would I check that? Is there something to look at in SCAL to determine this? - - - Updated - - - Yeah engine temp sensor is working fine. I assume you mean coolant temp sensor.

Its pretty fresh

AEM gauge, but also the same reading on the syvecs.

So the strip down starts... going to get the injectors out, tested and then cleaned. Replace all the spark plugs, check the coil packs, get the fuel pressure regulator checked, check the MAP sensor and then replace what needs to be replaced and hopefully we will be back to where we need to be. If its still got high AFR's after all that then I suppose a full remap is on the list of things to do.

So Verdict when it comes to the AFR sensor, it was not that. Looked hopeful to start with but then as the engine warmed up it went back to 10's again :-/ The thing is when its trying to correct the afr's and they are around 12-13 its running lumpy as soon as it goes full rich it smooths out.

Supposed to be around 1500kg or less

So whipped out the AFR sensor expecting to see a Bosch LSU 4.9 but it turns out to be a LSU 4.2 Done a bit of research on the 4.2 and they are well known for only lasting a couple of years where the LSU 4.9 is supposed to have a service life of +10 years. This 4.2 has been in the car for ast least 7 years, OK not used everyday but this may be the issue we are looking at... it also looks like it has a dent in the top which would indicate its been dropped before...which is never good for a O2 sensor...

Really, you sure mate? thank you what a legend !! PM me your PayPal address and the amount that will cover it and i'll send some money your way. If you cant do paypal send me your bank details instead.

Mate, if you have some going spare then that would be awesome. How much would you want for a couple? But yeah thats what I think too, still my with my OCD I wouldnt be able to let that go i'll always be wondering lol