ManwithSupra

Here are some pics of the day... not very many as my phone ran out, There were 2 car parks packed full of exotics (Mclaren F1, Ferrari's, Aston Martins, Porcshe GT3's) & fast/sports cars (CSL's, Nobles, Lotus, Ultima's etc etc)

Comon I am the only supra here lol.

I am so confused about brakes, now i dont know a huge amount of info on brakes so bear with me... I currently have a full UK setup which soon is going to be in need of new discs pads etc, when I do this I am going to refurbish the callipers with new seals etc. However I must admit I am drawn to the big brake conversion's and have been researching them when I get a chance now and then. Now I know this subject has been resurrected time and time again on this forum however I have yet to see any "proof" on some of the claims with regards to performance made between the cheaper and more expensive 2 piece (non monoblock) calliper kit brands (Ksport, D2, Hispec vs AP, Brembo, Alcon etc), please bear in mind that most of us use the supra as fast road or sometimes track use and this post is written with that in mind. As far as I know one of the major issues with braking is down to how much grip you have on the road, the better grip you have on the road the less chance of the brakes outperforming this grip and causing the wheels to lock. Now as the stock UK brakes can outperform the amount of grip the tyres have on the road means that the limits of the car braking any more quickly (distance from xMPH-0) cannot be improved by the brakes even if you install a big brake kit. Now the cheaper end of big brake kits have been mentioned on here as performing the same or slightly worse than UK spec brakes, however I can probably bet that these "cheaper" brakes are just as capable of causing the wheels to lock when braking hard (therefore outperforming grip as mentioned before, and if they didn’t then I am sure we all would of heard about it). So therefore in terms of outright braking performance these have to perform the same as OEM brakes as its the grip that determines this. So I beg to ask what makes the more expensive brakes better? I assume the only reason why you would purchase a big brake kit is for repeat braking performance (like for use on a track) or for aesthetics. Now I have seen from the comments on here that the more expensive callipers use better materials in order to decrease the amount of flex on the calliper than the cheaper brands, I cannot see any proof if this "stiffness" makes a huge difference in fast road and light track use and surely if the calliper is stiff enough to apply enough pressure on the pads to cause enough friction on the disc to lock the rotation of wheel when braking hard, then any repeat braking performance is down to the materials used in the pads and the way the discs dissipate the heat. Again in this regard what makes AP, brembo etc different to the cheaper brands when using the same sized discs and the same compound pads?

Saw this the other day when picking my supra from Toyoda Tech

Sorry i have no idea. Perhaps restore to a previous version (Go to computer, right click on the C: drive then click "restore previous versions" then follow the instructions) Although more importantly whats this....

Also intrested (Pm'd)

Maybe... lol

They probably dont have a name on for a reason.....

I will do a "How To" on here (as i am sure there are loads of people on here with bent sills) and after i have finished with the tool people can use it if they wish.

Ok mate will have a look thanks for your help

Yeah got a compressor, don't think its particularly powerful though 2.5hp 7cfm I think

I shall be there on Sunday .... yay

Thanks mate, thats awesome information... Steel plates, bolts & Galvafroid (pricey but not too bad) all ordered up. In case i cannot get a place to do the shot blasting would alot of time spent with abrasive rust removal drill attachments do the job?

Had a full service on the Supra by Stuart at Toyoda Tech (awesome job done) although he mentioned that the sills under the car where the jacking points are have been bent back and are starting to rust !! Now I have always jacked the car up on the sub frame and then supported it on axle stands (not where the sills are) so this must have been done before and I just have not noticed. He said that the best thing to do is take it to a body shop to get these restraightened, shot blasted, treated, painted then under sealed. I am all for doing this properly (so don’t really care to much about the price as this is important) but how much am I looking at do you reckon just so I know what to budget for? It would be for both sides of the car and the whole length of both sills. Rich

Got a problem with my daily driver(Ford focus mk2 tdci) coming back from dropping the supra off to toyoda tech last night for a service, the focus suddenly developed a air whooshing sound when the car is on boost, and then low power as a result, I figure that it will be a split in a boost hose somewhere, but how annoying, now i have no cars to use.

More info needed, but intrested.

Bump

I am really looking forward to this weekend !! Got a call from my boss last Thursday when I had a day off asking if I wanted to go and see the British grand prix all expenses paid with my two other work colleagues in my team, Naturally I said of course.... Got the Itinerary through today.... chuffed to bits is all I can say Its two nights at the Oxford Belfry Spa Hotel (which is not to bad). On Saturday night we are getting taken out in oxford city centre for a meal and drinks, then onto bars in the evening for a bit of a beer session, then on the Sunday its quite an early start 6am breakfast lol and then chauffer driven from the hotel to the Grand Prix where we have allocated seating for the race and the "possibility" of pit lane entrance (that’s to be confirmed), then afterwards going back out into oxford for another meal then the race afterparty :d Well excited

Pm'd

Ignore this.

Does anyone know who does Rotora Discs in the uk. I would have checked their website but it does not seem to be working.

My mate has had a few E46 M3's all good cars, very quick lots of fun, nice sound and handle like its on Rails. However, the servicing is expensive, replacement brakes are very expensive (expect to pay over a grand for discs and pads), as are tyres (full set £900-1200) and any replacement parts. Its worth noting that the bottom end part of the rear springs tend to snap in their holders so get them checked before you buy (this happend on two of the E46 M3's he owned) Look through the service history and check to see that if you are getting one with an SMGII gearbox that there has been no trouble with the SMG control unit, to replace this it is very expensive. Also check to see if the VANOS system has had any issues, yet again if this fails (which is quite common in relation to E46 engine issues) is VERY expensive. My mate with his last M3 was up to 85k miles when the car developed a Camshaft problem (which caused a VANOS Failure) and it was a shame as it was just out of warranty, he ended up part exchanging it to a BMW dealership for a CSL.

I am also intrested, I am looking to change my radiator to a aluminium one so need a seperate transmission cooler for my auto box. Can you get some pics. Cheers.

£10 for the lot?

sold