Mike M

Not that its going to help much but my 306 used to bring on both coolings fans full speed once the ignition was turned off and would stay on till the battery was flat.

Mine do this sometimes, put some grease between the top spring coils as they rub together then rust. How do you find the comfort levels, I'm totally fed up with mine especially with the state of our roads just not enough give. Mine has bumpsteer too with these which doesn't help in corners much.

I'm sure the prop coupling needs removed from the box output shaft first requiring a special tool.

No probs mate. Sounds like your flywheels not helping matters.

Oh well back to work the morn again still no MOT yet:( but its not far away now. Few finishing off bit to do like polishing the rest of the wheels and fitting the chrome spinners. Need to underseal the floorpans black then add some more grey to the arches. If i'd more time and paint I would have liked it to be all orange under there. But the to do list is finally into single figures:)

Paul, whats the other relay for? twin elements in the screen? (Ahh wait a min, a timer relay right?)

No no never too late still good advice as the cars not on the road yet anyway. I'd bet soaking kept the amount of fibres floating about down.

I'll be honest and say I dont think so as just cutting it across the way makes it fray out into a mess unless you put some masking tape around then make the cut through that. I would either just overlap more or buy both sizes. Demon tweeks have a lot of sizes and a few colour options too. The stuff I bought came from Scoobyparts.com just under £35 delivered for the two rolls which I thought was a pretty good price.

The cable ties worked a treat and made life much easier. Another thing i'd say is if working in a tight spot dont try and use the full roll at once as it becomes a right PITA feeding each length through a gap and causes much more of the horrible fibres to break loose. Cheers Mike

When I replaced my flywheel the new one was really hard to turn by hand and I couldnt move it very much maybe 1 - 2 cm. The old one which did do a fair bit of rattling was fairly easy to turn and I could turn it probably around 4 - 5 cm. I'm only going from memory though as I chucked it out the other month there. This was turning clockwise BTW as your looking at the clutch side, the new one self returned by its spring force and the old one did a little.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=62337&highlight=engine+knocking&page=5 Found it

That worked for me Cheers mate. Sounds pretty bad but different to Terrible Turners when his went. His vid is on here somewhere.

Scotsters link is giving me an error on page no vid.

Will the link not just attach using the insert link function.

LOL, she took the sup to her work today and told me tonight how she lost the rear end going onto the DCW then over corrected and shat herself showing up a guy in an MG ZS thing. I hope it's not serious mate. Good luck.

Cheers mate:), its changed colour a bit since running the engine and little bit of smoke from it that died away. These pipes get very hot I've burnt myself twice wiping up oil weeps:taped:

Here's my efforts for today. Not the neatest job in the world but its still going to stop the paint from stripping off on the rear valence and remove alot of heat from the engine bay. Need to order up one more roll to finish off but i'm glad most of its on now, horrible micro fibres all over the place like old loft insulation.

That's a good plan for sure with the plastic tie wraps cheers. Much appreciated BTW the offer of the metal ties thank you very much:). I'm going to see how things go with the copper wire first its 1.5mm single stranded stuff good for twisting and I have loads of it. The other reason was the wrap supplier didnt sell stainless ties and I'm in a big hurry to get this done before I head back offshore Wed. Need this on to run in the cam and then I can tune up the motor. Cheers Mike

Ahh never thought about that, I opened up one of the rolls yesterday and seen all the fine fibres aswell. Cheers:)

Think you notice worn droplinks more on high upward type bumps. I'd jack up one corner and then jack up the wishbone a little to take the strain off the droplink balljoints. They should be able to move freely with a firm push but not feel loose or gritty. New ones are quite tight feeling.

Gonna be fitting out the whole stainless tubular header system on my beetle with exhaust wrap but I cant say that i'm looking forward to it. I've bought 2 rolls of 2" 5 meter stuff and planning on using copper wire as ties. Anyone have any hints & tips?? Or is it just one of those PITA jobs unless its a straight bit of pipe.

No probs, first warning I got yesterday that the pads were low was the warning triangle coming on while braking hard but that all depends on whether you top up your fluid or not when servicing.

Had the same thing too, drivers side rear causing a very warm wheel. Cured mine yesterday by pulling out the outer most pad, bolt caliper back on minus pad then put a screw driver shaft or small spanner through the top to take the place of the pad(Basically to prevent the piston going to far) then pump the brake pedal to extend the piston cleaning up the seal and any crusty crap off the piston while its fairly well extended. Push piston back in and repeat a few times. Make sure the sliders are free to move first as they cause the same problem. Done this a few times with various cars now and usually never see the problem again unless the seal is split around the piston. Mine was caused by the pads wearing abit low.

Ahh, oops wrong again.

Just a cat temp sensor, mine is cable tied up out the way.