Mike M

Hi Folks, If i blip the throttle I'm getting a rattle off the fan belt and I can see the tensioner and little damper vibrating causing the rattle noise. Is this normally just a knackered damper or will the tensioner need doing too. Cheers Mike

Nice job, wonder if one of those silver paint pens would be any good for the lettering then lacquer the whole lot after detailing.

Cheers for that.

Depends on the amount of cc's per cylinder chamber on the head i thought plus piston size and stroke. You get the chamber volume kits with the syringe for measuring or is that for compression ratio. Maybe the 1jz-Gte head has bigger cylinder chambers. Found it although not for Toyota you get what i'm waffling on about. http://www.msgulfcoastvwclub.org/TechPages/Tech10.html

Bet you didnt change the driverside keyhole to blue. I wouldnt touch the interior light looks a bit chav like what you'd expect to find in many saxos. Maybe fit some of these LED replacement bulbs with the pure white light they'd look quite modern I reckon.

it would but i was thinking when you said about going down dips in the road that th exhaust was maybe moving about. Prob not mate but an easy check. I thought my exhaust had been doing this as its pretty close but I dont have any tell tale rubbing marks.

May sound daft but how close is the exhaust to the propshaft rubber coupling?

I fitted mine although had to remove it to get the 1st cat out in the first place. My thoughts at the time were its there for a reason and thought the whole exhaust weight would then only be supported by the manifold if removed.

I'm not sure its the actuator seeing as its went wide open in TTC. I think its internal as in the valve itself seeing as your not getting full boost but I cant be sure mate. Hopefully someone with first hand experience can shine a bit more light on this.

The raspy noise is normal in TTC and you can tell when the EGCV opens by the noise the first time you boost in TTC. Also in TTC its normal for the IACV & EGCV to be held open this is due to the pressure tank holding them open. Trouble is that when you released the pressure on the IACV hose the EGCV should have gone back to closed very quickly with the IACV so you seem to have a problem with this and not so likely the VSV now. In your pic the EGCV is wide open as is the IACV but still not getting full boost. I'm wondering if you might have a fecked EGCV with a broken ceramic plate or something as its not acting normal thats for sure. You'll need someone more experienced than me to confirm if thats possible as I've never messed around with the internal parts of these valves. Cheers Mike

Its going in for the big MOT tomorrow and i'm not looking forward to it. Been checking stuff over and pretty confident its gonna be fine but the starter is playing up on warm starts barely turning over. I think it must be the compression increasing once its warmed up. Would like it pass anyway seeing as the sups burst its rad.

I noticed that comment Jamie because of your link I've been watching feckin plane engines fire up all over you tube now.LOL Sado alert here:Pling: The sound of this one starting is amazing dunno what type of starter it is but the guys winding it up for ages. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2ChXmMiXjY&feature=related

He could have put a longer bonnet on it.

Brilliant noise. Check this one out too with the spitfire engine, sounds ace.

It's worth doing for all the time it takes and will give peace of mind that No2 is ok when you see that boost level rise to normal. If you had an air supply then it would be handy, you can also remove the vsv and test it by connecting 12v onto it. Should hear it click and by blowing through the ports you will tell if its leaking air or directing air through when switched. Without power the vsv should pass air from the inner most port to the filter exhaust port ont he back of it. With power it should direct the air from inner most port to the outer one next to it.

Does it spring back instantly? if so then its like the power drops off the vsv letting it dump the air off the EGCV actuator but I would have thought that would have happened already once revs are brought down to idle. If gradually then I'd say it must be a sticking valve. Or just a thought, the vsv is sticking not allowing the air to dump.

Thats possibly 0.9bar just from the 1st tubby. When the EGCV doesnt open and the IACV does then boost pressure flows backwards through No 2 from No1 causing mayhem.

The EGCV sticking open will change the exhaust noise making it raspy like in TTC mode. Could be that its not opening correctly either causing all the boost to dump when the IACV opens up. I think anyway. I'd try and get a 10psi airline directly onto the EGCV actuator and try stroking it, you will then see right away whats happening.

Knockhill has its own climate, its either cold & windy or feckin freezing and windy.

Now that would have been cold in the atom.

I think it depends on how restrictive your exhaust is or in other words how loud it is. When i still had only my 1st cat in the car held 0.9bar steady.

Hopefully you'll be lucky and they will break free like mine did with a loud crack and run off smoothly. One of the bolts is a right bitch to get at but not impossible.

Sorted one out now. Big thanks to Paul at Whifbitz. Cheers Mike

All traders welcome, I need a new rad for a Manual TT either stock or aftermarket I'm not bothered just need one quick as mine is leaking from cracks in the plastic just under the cap. Cheers Mike