Mike M

Totally messed up my fault diagnosis, got a call from the garage today saying your bearings fine but the upper wishbone is totally knackered. DOH. Anyway once I get my parts back off the garage probably Friday at the earliest, I'll have a brand new rear hub bearing, brand new bearing wheel flange, new inner & outer seals, new retaining clip & hub nut. Looking for £230 + P&P for the lot OR £45 for seals, clip & nut + P&P, £75 for the bearing + P&P, £110 for the hub flange + P&P. These parts are all genuine Toyota and were supplied for a 93 TT 6sp but may fit other models. I'm not sure. Will accept paypal but usual 4% will need to be added. Thanks:) Mike

Dragged my sorry ass under the car and found the sticker. Its an SMI. Also found two leaking shockers and a gear stick linkage that feels like its gonna fall off and is already hitting the exhaust. That'll explain the rattle through the stick. LOL.

Bit of a long shot this LOL, Anyone know if a 2000 'V' plate clio 1.6 16v RSI has an SMI or TRW type power steering rack? Needing to replace the inner tie rods but not even Renault with the chassis No can tell me. The only way of finding out is removing the service panel and looking at the rack but shes away with the car at the mo. Cheers:) Mike

yeah mine certainly was.

Nice looking sup sitting outside the chippy in Larbert this afternoon.

Damn, it was a Kenwood 6029 I fitted but was just a bit tight along the top. Not sure what to suggest apart from a severe going over with a dremmel type thing and one of those cutting blades to try and get a neat finish.

Mine fitted fine. Cant you adjust the cage slightly?

Yep, You need a cap from a mk III supra. Bet the stock caps a bit on the tight side too? All the rad pressure will be lost into the expansion tank if you try and use the stock cap. Paul whiffin on here has them in stock I believe. Cheers Mike

me too

Cant you just drive the car onto a brick then use the jack. Cracking looking jack BTW.

Not enough heat can cause the solder not to take.

I used this ready mixed stuff last week. Been spot on so far. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_160508_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varient__categoryId_33923_crumb__parentcategoryrn_33923

Me too or CV joints. It sounds like what knackered CV joints do on full lock on a FWD car when its crawling with a clicking crunchy noise. I thought the bumps in the road were causing it but it did in the multistorey today and thats very smooth. Unfortunatly I'm back to work tomorrow so its gonna have to run to Aberdeen and back. While I'm away I'll give Hypertech a ring and get it on the ramp. Gonna be an expensive month this and its MOT is looming in May. I Still dont wont rid of it though.

Damn those last 9 months of daily use and neglect are biting me now. Think my sups just realised its going to be 15 this year. While crawling along with the window open I can hear a clicking / cracking noise from the rear so decided to jack it up thinking the lowering springs were just rubbing. Found that both the rear wheels have a fair bit of up & down play but the drivers is the worst. Both make a clicking noise too when pulling pushing the wheel with the drivers making a slight knocking. Couldnt feel any sideways movement and having the handbrake on or off didnt make any difference. Question is though, is it CV joints, wheels bearings or wishbone balljoints? Cheers Mike

Well here it is. Passed MOT last monday no probs. Had to lift the front up about half an inch due to the wing trying to reshape my tyre but all ok now. Done around 130 mile and its freeing off abit now just the other 870 to go:) Feels nippy although just revving to 3.5k the now and feck me the noise from the carbs and exhaust is something else. Cheers Mike

g/f's clio did this and It was caused by the ABS ring on the CV joint being split and slipping around the shaft. A new ring shouldnt be too expensive from Mr T just a pain to fit.

Thats a great right up mate liked the powerade tip, I had to cut a bottle of coke in half and tape it on. I really want to get my airbox trim back on but the rads too wide so may have to do some fettling to the trim. Needs to stop snowing and being cold outside first so I can get interested.

Cheers Nic:)

No no, you wont need to remove the front bumper. Remove viscous fan, drain rad, disconnect temp sensor and electric fan harnesses, disconnect hoses, remove the two black top clamps on the rad and lift the whole lot straight out. Fairly easy just a bit awkward getting to the four nuts holding on the viscous fan and not dropping them.

Good to know cheers mate.

Yeah mate I think its gonna be soon as the stock pipe is heading south towards the fan belt. Need to save up some pennies as theres a few bits needing attention very soon.

Hi all, My old rad split on the usual place last week so fitted a Koyo alluminium rad. Its a stunning piece of kit so thought I'd share some pics and the installation. So here goes:) One knackered rad with dodgy failed RTV bodge:D Fan removed to allow the whole assembly to lift out. Fan and temp sensor connectors unplugged and rad drain plug opened. Rad now lifted out and loads of leaves and crap dropped out. Carefully unpack shiny new Rad and admire whilst scratching nuts. Have to say that everything swapped over and fitted great apart from one clip that needed trimming. This clip here used to hook around the old rad. Fitting was slightly more awkward due to the depth of the Koyo so had to remove the battery and tray but otherwise no probs. Gave me an excuse to clean up round there anyway. Big thanks to Paul Whiffin getting the rad out to me super quick as I was stuck without the car Cheers mate;). Nine Litres of coolant the thing swallowed up LOL, spent ages squeezing that top hose getting the air out. Also had a little weep out the top hose but managed to move the clip and seems to have stopped. Tbh the hose has seen better days too. Another thing these rads use the mkIII supra pressure caps in case you dont know. Cheers for having a nosey:) Mike

Damn, sounds like the tensioner then but the damper should be an easy check with the belt off. Going to be doing a bit of work on this soon as in a new belt and overhaul kit for the power steering pump. How can you confirm if the tensioner is knackered? can you feel any play in them? Cheers Mike

No one ever seen this before?

Self tapping flat headed screw with an 'o' ring should get you by I would have thought. Not pretty by any means but should do.