Phil

Used to get about 12k out of rear F1's but the fronts always wore on the inside edges cos I was doing a lot of motorway miles. I've binned fronts with 5mm on the outside and bald on the inside after 7k. Great tyres though. Cheers, Phil

You mean UK spec as well? 320mm with 4 piston calipers. S/H these are quite rare but you can get new sets for around £7-800 all in I think. Try Justin @ Torqueic on 01233 500384, he sorted out a few sets in the past I think. Cheers, Phil

BMW specifically state that you shoudl use SUL for their M series cars, it's in the M3 handbook. Very interesting thread this. Cheers, Phil

I can do you a nice deal on the FMIC and TC as well, bought and never fitted. See For Sale. Cheers Phil

One problem I came across intermittantly was that at WOT in third the limiter would come in at around 120mph on the clock, this could be defeated by easing off slightly as you went thru 120MPH or easing off enough to make it change to 4th around 115MPH then back on WOT. Justin told me the trick when I explained the symptoms to him so I assume it had happened to him too, surprised he ever found the cure to anything by easing off though :biggrin: Cheers,

Syed, 'm not sure you can transplanet exhaust's between the TT and NA. Cheers, Phil

Sorted. Graham at McCarthy Toyota Maidstone, 01622 790222, highly recommended. Moron at Motorline Ashford, complete waste of space. Cheers,

Just had a hugely irritating phone call with my local Toyota dealer speaking to some moron who wouldn't look for a part if the chassis number didn't come up on his computer. Every time I asked him to look based on the model he just repeated that "the standard procedure is to put the chassis number in". After him saying this for about the third time I just hung up - these people don't deserve any business.

Morning all, I've got a stripped thread on one of my wheel studs and need to get a new one asap. Does anyone know the Toyota partnumber for the stud and bolt? It's got Jap spec discs but I don't think that makes a difference in this case. Cheers,

I think there is a Boxhill meet coming up, or Justin's Brekky run if you like. Cheers,

Stu, I think the TC removal is money well spent (after the initial hassle getting it working properly). As you know I never even fitted the RLTC but the car feels better without the stock TC as you know exactly where you stand without any electronics putting their size 9's where they aren't wanted. Brian, Yeah, I would be interested in a spin to see how it feels. Cheers, Phil

Hi Brian, Sorry for the confusion, it wasn't the RLTC that caused the problem but the HKS Trac removal kit. To avoid the OD OFF light flashing I removed it. It's not such a big problem but I use the od off button a lot to change down to third when coming up to roundabouts etc. so not having it on the stick would not suit me. Looks good though and I'm sure many people will want it. Cheers,

Had a similar problem on a V6 Mondeo, it was the traction control stuck on, the motor had seized and it wouldn't let me apply any throttle. It doesn't work quite the same way on a Supra but you could try pulling the TRAC fuse to see if it makes a difference. Cheers,

They are clear RAV4 indicators, take about 10 seconds a side and available from any max power type shop. About £25. Maybe Justin has some? Cheers,

It refers to the 'weight' of the oil when cold and hot. Best bet for the Supra is a nice fully or semi-synthetic but not Mobil 1 0-50w as it's too thin. A common choice is Valvoline synpower 5-50w fully synth, you can get it from Shop! Cheers,