jase_93tt

Hi All When the Slip control switch is set to off, does anyone know if the 1st butterfly still, in some way or other, smooths gearchanges, or does it simply mirror the 2nd butterfly ? Any info much appreciated Jase

For those who dont have the option to fit decat pipes anymore (like me!), a simple tweak of the fuel controller will suffice (hopefully!). My MOT's in March....

hehe

I thought it looked fooking stupid without the kit, then I scrolled down and laughed my ass off. Some people have wacky tastes, but each to their own I guess. Talk about killing a beautifully designed car

Gran Turismo 4

Ive had my fair share of digital cameras over the years. I jumped onto the digital bandwagon, back in the days when 1megapixel cameras where all the rage. Ive used a Nikon D1X with Nikkor lenses, SB800 flash unit for quite a few years now. I believe the D200 is a good buy from the current crop of new digital SLR bodies. Im waiting for the D2X to drop a bit more price before I change mine. The D1x has done me proud and never failed to get the shot just how I want it.

Mines at the wheels, not at the flywheel. Im not sure what % the A/T mission losses are, but guess 20-25%, so guestimate flywheel figure would be around 385bhp. Figures will also vary from dyno to dyno But thats back in the prehistoric days of BPU, now I run a phat single and make much more power, enough make you not want to care what the figures are- its too fast anyway

When my supe was BPU (2nd decat, 1.2bar, full stainless 90mm bore exhaust, aftermarket filter, 3row FMIC, decent plugs- 1 grade colder than stock), I got an average of 290rwhp-300rwhp on the dyno. Mines a Jspec auto btw.

The stock ecu dosnt like it when the cam timing has been adjusted too far in advance (or maybe retarded also). So if the timing is past that certain point, it throws up an error. Just a case of altering the timing back towards the stock timing position, bit by bit, until the lights go out.

cams and pulleys, parts and labour for about 1K is an option, but generally you do the cams mod towards the end, after sorting the turbo etc.

8.5J +45 fronts, 9.5J +45 rears are a good size. Alternatively 10J +45 rears fit the arches without modification as well. My new rims (no fitted yet) are 8.5J +38 9.5J +37 which will push the wheels out a few mil, which I need as Im fitting overfenders front and rear.

U got mail

Sorted the cams out today. Was just a case of adjusting the intake cam pulley every so slightly so that the lights have gone out

I wish

You WILL LOVE the 8800GTX. It owns big time. I can run everything full detail, 2560x1600 rez, and everythings smooth as silk. Only game that Ive got that gives the 8800gtx a hard time is Company of Heroes, but then, I ran it top whack (16x anti alias) just to see what it ran like, but in everyday use, I find 4x anisotropic filtering (sp?) and 4x aliasing eliminates all the jaggies without noticeable hitting performance. I dont think you will need the 1000w for a single card (would be good enough for two though), but whatever you get, make sure its an uber quality psu. I was surprised with my psu when it came with a operating manual (LOL). How complex can a PSU be . . .

Ive nearly finished putting together my gaming rig Nvidia 680 Sli mobo 2gig 667 Ram 2 x WD raptors SATA 1 x geforce 8800 gtx (with another due in soon) E6700 core 2 duo processor (2.4ghz) 3dmark 06 got 9,800 (nothing overlocked) Cant remember exact score for 3d mark 05, but think it was 17K or something. Cant wait to test it in SLI mode as these 8800gtx's rock something wrotten I had to fork out some serious power supply unit to get the 8800gtx to run. The unit I got is a proper quad sli 730w one, which can handle 4 x 7950's, but only 2 x 8800 gtx's. My previous psu, was only 550w and that sucked big time in getting the card to run

Thanks Tony. I will check the sensors shortly.

Im pretty certain the cams are the right way round I wonder if the problem Im experiencing is a common one ? Probably best to put the timing back to stock and see if the lights go out and take it from there. Cant think of anything else that could be causing the warning lights to come on, at the moment.

houston we have a problem Im getting the warning and engine lights permanently on (although they are not flashing). Stuck in the diagnostic equipment and Im getting error codes 31 and 13, which are Intake Air pressure sensor/vaccum sensor - abnormal signal and No RPM signal to ecu when engine speed is over 1000rpm, respectively. If I turn on the ignition and keep the revs above 1000rpm, both lights do not light up, but as soon as the revs drop down below 1000rpm, they come on. When the cams where first installed, the idling was crap, so the pulleys have been adjusted accordingly to improve idling. Not sure whether both lights came on as soon as the cams where installed, or after the pulleys had been adjusted. Had a greddy cam belt and aluminium pulleys installed at same time. Anyone any ideas on what could be causing the error codes ? Car drives beautifully, regardless Ta Jase

Dont know as Ive never tried fitting them, unfortunately.

Sure. As long as its a sensible one

Ive got veilside skirts, over fenders and rear spats, so all should fit well.

Direct replacement.

Brand new, unused. Made from high quality FRP. Supplied as per photo, ready for priming and painting. Extend the width of the car 1cm each side. Was going to fit them to my car, but decided to fit front veilside over fenders instead. £350 delivered (UK only). Paypal/cheque accepted. http://67.59.137.58/images/forsale/IMG_0351.jpg http://67.59.137.58/images/forsale/IMG_0352.jpg

I was cruising down a local dual carriageway the other night. Gear was in 'D' position and decided to manually change down to '2', albeit a little sooner than I should have done as when I changed down, the revs shot up to about 5.5K, backend did a spot of sliding around for a second or two, on the slightly damp road surface. Nothing major, but I can imagine it could have been a lot worse if I was changing down around a corner