Andrew Dunk Shaw

When i mentioned a warrenty obviously youve got to get a decent one that will cover the bulk of the parts on your car, ive had them on cars before and just made sure i read the small print before i bought it to make sure the big drama's are covered. Ive made claims on them in the past and had no problems, one being for £5000 so IMO that was money well spent as the 3yrs warrenty cost £750,,, it does very much depend on doing your homewrk and going with the right company. I agree a lot of warrenties are not worth the paper there written on but some are. Regarding mods then its the same as your car insurance if you dont come clean then they will not pay up. Common sense really !!!

Regarding the modding,,,, resistance is futile. But at least there's a few of us here to point you in the right direction.

Not sure on that, i thought it was condition of car not mileage. Phone JIC or another import place and they should be able to tell you.

Just looking at the pickie you posted, is there a kink in the roof or is it just a shadow :D sorry far only kiddin m8 good luck with it.

I think your on your own when it comes to shall i or shant i. If the car drives well, stops in a straight line, doesn't leave a smoke trail behing it, hasn't had major repair wrk, is in good condition inside and out, everything wrks, then go for it. What about getting a mechanical warrenty on it for your peace of mind. Also take a look at the JIC site, there cars are a lot more ££'s than the one your thinking of buying so i'd say if the car seems sweet with no probs get your wallet out. Your biggest worry will be catching the dredded supra modding virus, which im afraid is fatal with no known cure:D

Think you can get hybrids done for under £2000 which basicly is all new internals but using your old casings which get modded to take the bigger internals which will = more power. If the car is mint then its a good sign its been looked after rather than tarted up, just look at everything you can, even better if you can put it on a ramp and have a good look underneath. Think your in the lap of the gods with the turbo's unless its real obvious theres something up with them like nasty noises or white smoke out the exhaust, mine were fine one second then knackered the next. Take a decent mechanic with you, ive used the RAC and the AA and wasn't really that impressed with their checks.

Hi welcome to the club, If the cars got Japanese service history couldn't you get it translated into English ?? Grade 5 is the top grade i think. £8000 for it doesn't sound bad to me. My car's done 92k with no problems but my 1st uk mk4 tt blew both turbo's at 50-60k it had FTSH 1 owner before me so why they went i dont know. A lot does depend on the treatment by previous owners, the amount of people that dont let them warm up before driving them hard and then switch them off as soon as they pull up will not do it any good especially the turbo's. Service history doesn't mean your car will be problem free but it certainly helps give you an idea of how well its been maintained.

Thanks Nathan, I was having a bit of bother trying to get the 2 bottom hose's made exactly the same as the stock one's. I wish this snow would bugger off, then i'd pop down and see you at TDI, its chucking it down up here in the Mids, dont think i'll be going home if this carries on.

This is the valve im on about. With my new hose's it sits at a bit off vertical and was unsure if that would mess things up, cheers Pete and Ibrar.

Guy's im after a bit of info, Above the turbo's theres a valve with two 25mm (approx) pipes going into the bottom and one 10mm (approx) pipe going to the top, i'll take a pickie if no one knows what im going on about but if you do, does this valve need to sit as vertical as possible. Im just in the process of changing hose's on my car and thought i'd ask. Cheers in advance of your witty replies

Induction kit ( are there any real benefits unless its a big turbo car ) ? Ive had the HKS induction kit and dont think its worth £150's, you get a filter some hose connectors, hose clips and a rough cast piece of pipe I'd say just put an exhaust on it, maybe 1 of those ASCAR custom jobs for about £400. Then get saving buy a tt

This may sound very silly but what about some sink or drain cleaner ( mr muscle ) Just a thought.

Had my full service on car yesterday and got the heater fixed, just flushed it through with water and hey presto

Hi Tom, hope it all goes according to plan.

Thanks for the info guys. Im just treating the car to a full service, the box works spot on, but i'll get my specialist here to give it a good check and if it needs anything it will get it. Ta for the G Box specialist number Adi.

just about to give my uk tt a full service, i have everything but autobox fluid. whats the best oil to put in a uk autobox ? toyota stuff or someone elses ?

Thought the uk front brakes were 4 pots. AP six pots if youve got the dosh have got to be the way to go. Dont forget if your buying 18" wheels make sure that they will go over the UK or AP brakes. The stock uk brakes are exellant IMO only lose out when doing track days but that can be sorted with different pads and some higher spec brake fluid and maybe different brake discs. Not sure what would be the best route on the rears though, do AP make a suitable rear brake upgrade ? Maybe AP's on the front and UK rears on the back ? Its really a matter of how much you want to spend.

Yes, sorry guys im not really very with it today.

Hi guys, My heater in my uk mkiv has started playing up, any ideas ? You can turn the temp control knob down and it gets cold but when turned up to the max it doesn't get anywhere near as hot as it used to, it gets warm but thats about it, haveing had a little look cant see anything obvious, the engine temp is spot on as normal, no water leaks anywhere, water system seems fine no air locks or gurgleing noises from dash. Is there some kind of control unit that could have started playing up. Help please as its toooo bloody cold with a lame heater.

Isn't it funny how bends start appearing on M WAYS when your doing 160+ More fun and a lot safer at Donnington though IMO

Not really a DIY job unless your a decent spanner man.

Had the same problem with mine and the key fob is a bitch to get open, almost impossible to get it open without damageing the edges of the plastic !! Wide blade screwdriver and prize the two pieces apart. Yep back at wrk on saturday to finish off my supra parts.

400 bhp just by fitting a superchip is rubbish, my bro is a superchip agent and have asked about this for the twin turbo supra, you could see maybe a 30-40 bhp gain, along with some extra torque. There about £500 for the supra. I think the best route to go is exhaust, full decat, bc, fcd then you will have a genuine 400 bhp car, but then you'll poss need a better intercooler. The best results with the superchip are on the turbo diesel cars where they work very well.

Theres not a great deal of money in it about £150 ish more for the R spec, its just that when ive got to my 400+ hp i'll be more than happy with the engine performance and my only mods will be cosmetic and brakes. Suppose i'll end up with the R spec but if the S spec is fine for what i want i'd rather put the extra ££'s toward the other goodies.

No Gaz the R spec intercooler was overkill on my part, i'd had a nice little earn and had a few ££££'s to part with so i tossed a coin and it landed on heads which was the R spec FMIC. Im not going single turbo as when my car gets somewhere over the 400 hp mark that'll be fine for me + my cars an auto so i'll be sticking after these mods as i dont want to be giving the g box a hard time. Once ive got my hp to 400+ my money will go on other bits such as front bumper and rear wing and maybe a mad paint job