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I'm just such a hero I could do it all by myself

I've also now installed the assembled rear subframe. Info about the subframe rebuild can be found earlier in my build thread. I used new bolts to secure the subframe. The rear 8 x bolts were torqued to 58 Nm. The same torque is applied to the 2 x nuts that secure the rear bushes the the actual subframe. The 2 x front bolts were torqued to 175 Nm. Remeber to install the two lower cups too (easily forgotten). I then installed my new HKS Hipermax S rear struts. I used new bolts, nuts and washers to secure the suspension. There were also a set of spacers that came with the HKS kit to ensure the correct fitment of the rear stud to the lower suspension arm and associated bolt. None of the other suspension bolts have been tightened. I'll do that later when the car is ready to be taken off the body dolly and the wheels installed. I'll jack the hub /knuckle to the correct ride position and then tightened everything up. Final thing was to ensure the ABS sensor leads were pushed up into the cabin from underneath.

I also did a few other small bits. Window trim. I had previously installed the new yellow grommets, but have put on the front window seal rear guide. These parts are discontinued, so I had to use my originals. Fortunately they are in good order. However, I have purchased new screws. I then installed the steering column boot to the inside of the car. I have reused the boot and bracket, but replaced the bolts.

Agreed. You've got everything I can think of covered. I would probably change the cam belt and tensioner regardless of how it looks, having been sat for so long.

Here's a picture of me next to it. I'll never forget that day

Looks like a decent enough list!

I know forums can go offline for maintenance but this one does it so often now. It already seems pretty dead sadly but these drop outs must make it even harder to jump on.

Wow, I thought this would be the hardest part but it turned out to be the easiest. Sure enough, once you peel back the carpet there's so much room there, glad they did that! Getting the tape off the looms and trying to get the wire thru the doors was another story...

Your insane i said id help with that subframe. Now granted i also said im afraid to touch the car but still

I've now installed the bulkhead pipe work. I've also installed the aluminium part of the front subframe. More details about the work and parts for the subframe can be found earlier in the thread. Main subframe bolts torqued to 125 Nm. Steering rack bolts x 4 torqued to 75Nm.

I've now installed the engine bay bulkhead pipe work. First were the two rear brake pipes that rund from the ABS actuator to the union pipe at the base of the nearside of the engine bay. I managed to get pne new a the other I had to reuse as it is now discontinued. I was also able to still get a replacement near side front brake pipe and losely install it. I then installed the two pipes that run from the brake reservoir. These were both new replacements. I then installed the pipe from the clutch reservoir to the gearbox. I reused my original pipe. Finally I installed the offside front brake pipe. This is annoyingly discontinued, so i had to reuse my original pipe. I then installed the two pipe spacers. The larger one goes on the back of thevpipes whwre the HVAC drain pipe comes through the bulkhead. The other spacer separates the two pipes going into the brake reservoir. I then installed the new clutch master cylinder. Although I bought a new guard and bolts I decided to reuse my zinc plated old ones instead. Next was the repainted brake booster.

There's room to run the wire up behind the radio over the transmission tunnel.

Very retro. It's going to take a bit of getting used to after 27 years on the BBS alloys.

3 1/2 years on I have finally test fitted one of the OE wheels to the car. It's service time ready for its planned Summer European tour and the BBS wheels are off. The front pair are 8 years old and the rear pairing 12 years old. Although they still have 6-8mm tread due to very little road use they are too old to go racing up and down the Autobahn with. So the OE rims will be getting a new set of Michelin tyres over the next few days. The OE wheels use different nuts to the BBS alloys. I did buy a set of nuts back in 2021 which fit as they should so everything is ready for the mobile tyre fitters to add some tyres. I'll get on with the oil and filters service plus a quick hard brush down tidy up underneath while the car is up on the ramp.

Same as non-heated wing mirror glass, just pull from the bottom. Heated glass part numbers are: 87931-14590 Mirror Sub-Assy, Outer Rear View, Rh 87961-1B130 Mirror Sub-Assy, Outer Rear View, Lh.

I'm back at it again. I've fitted the bonnet stoppers. The four bolts got lost during the respray, but James at Retro Road Sports came to my rescue and gave me the 4 bolts. Even better they had been zinc plated. For reference these bolts are now discontinued by Toyota. Got the fuel lines, fuel tank and ancillaries all fitted now. The three fuel lines are all brand new as are all the clips and fasteners. I replaced the rubber fuel hoses with SAE J30 R9 hoses. The OEM rubber fuel hoses aren't ethenol resistant, but R9 hoses are and are as used on modern cars. I replaced the breather hose on the fuel tank a few years ago as this was discontinued and my original was rusted badly. I installed a new clip for the fuel lines, the old one had become quite brittle. This was surprisingly difficult to fit as the bolt is made from plastic and I was terrified it would sheer as I tightened it up. I think the bolt cuts a thread in the clips as it is wound in, which is why there is quite a bit of resistance. I used my gearbox jack to position the fuel tank up into position and to fit it. I bought new tank straps and bolts. I had the fuel tank straps powdercoated because the factory finish was far too thin. Had to make sure the new flexi primary fuel line was routed under the plastic ducting on the fuel tank. This needs to be done before the fuel tanknis fitted as its next to impossible to fit this once the fuel tank is installed - I found this out the hard way! Fuel tank in and straps attached. The straps bolts need to be torqued to 49 Nm. I then ensured all the fuel pipe brackets and fixings were tightened. Next was the fuel tank guard, which had also been bought new and then powedercoated. I also had new bolts (there are 6)and the two protective strips. I retained the rubber grommet from my original fuel tank guard to reuse. This rubber grommet stops the plastic wheel arch liner rubbing on the the fuel tank guard. Not sure what the two protective strips do, but Mr T put them there for a reason. Once fitted I installed a new trim piece to hold the rear bumper to the tank guard. All finished.

That used to be my car. Bought from Charlesworths around 2003/4 and sold a year later. Beautiful car but running costs and insurance were hefty. Did see it online parked inside an MR2 trader but those images have disappeared off google