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It's been a long time coming, but we are finally here! There are a lot of changes - in fact everything has changed; the forum software, the web server we're using, the server infrastructure in general, even our hosts. I understand that generally no one likes change, but do I hope the overall experience on this new site will be much better than the old. Things might still need tweaking so please bear with us if anything isn't right. If you're having login problems then please use the contact us option. And with that said, it's time for me to press the unlock button now and let you all in. Have fun!

I've gotta recommend Paul cheshire of PCheshire Automotive, amazing job on mine!

I never thought I'd be saying this but I've had my Supe for 20 years today. I paid £15k for my na facelift aerotop which I'm pretty sure people thought I was mad for doing at the time but he's been an amazing car and has now reached the grand age of 24 Things that have gone wrong - yellow headlights - a leaking pipe for his autobox - rusted baffle on his exhaust - crack in alternator - some very minor rust spots That's it! Toyota you have done me proud. Here is to the next 20 years And a pic of him after a very pleasing detailing session

Thought I’d do a little update, just had it back from SRD, I changed to a smaller turbo as I wanted faster response, it’s on a 6266 and made 680whp, it’s a lot more fun to drive now. Also the boys put all new subframes and arms etc underneath, underside clean up, she is looking fresh now. Paul Chesire just sorted the V161 gearbox for me, the lever wasn’t springing back to the center as it should, one of the pistons was stuck, all sorted now. Also got myself one of them quickjack ramps a while back, handy for home. car is pretty much all done as I want it now.

Oh go on then, have a teaser. Decided in the end to ditch all the oem electronics that I was going to integrate back into the car and go balls out on the following electronics. Motec M150 ECU Syvecs X20 E888 Expander Motec PDM15 Motec PDM30 Motec Rotary Dial Controller Motec C1212 Dash Motec 15 Button Keypad MSEL Master Relay Motec DHB (for electronic wastegate control) Motec PAL Rear Facing Camera ECUMaster CANSwitch Wireless Network Module for M150/C1212 Connection Heres most bits mounted to a test board that I've now wired up and sitting at home with me now. So when I get a chance in the evenings, I've started doing some calibration and integration of all the above so I can setup and test all the electronics without needing them in the car. Once I'm happy that I've got what I need, then I can go back to wiring plan and finalize that. Got some other juicy updates but I'll wait till I get working on the car again to show those.

My 2001 RZ

Well for those who have not seen my fb post just purchased what I feel should have been the mv supra not that bmw being delivered to me on Tuesday it’s the v8 sport plus with all the extras cant wait to show this off dont worry the supra is staying but going off to turtles head retro rides for restoration

It's been a few years since I've written a build log unfortunately, but time to make up for lost time and get back on this. The last iteration of the build had me running a rather tasty 1.5JZ setup. For a bit of an oddball build it performed well, earning the title of fastest 100-200KPH (4.1s) street Supra in the UK (at the time). I could and probably should have left the car as is, but as always I am interested in trying new parts in order to progress my own learning and understanding of the JZA80, JZ platform & tuning in general. So here we go again, and this time round its going to get fairly hardcore, the days of the being a somewhat pleasurable street supra will be few now I think. Here is how the car sat a few months ago after some time sitting idle. Other than potentially some wider front wings to give better clearance around front wheels, I'm content with the look of the car so I don't think I'll make any major changes to the exterior. Main focus will be on the interior, safety systems, electronics, powertrain and drivetrain. Some interior photos to record what it looked like before the coming transformations. The focus with this setup was to keep it fairly civil inside, but with a few added extra's like the rollbar, bucket seats and harnesses to help with safety as the car never came with airbags! Haven't run a radio or speaker system in a few years, and will continue that way. I enjoyed the touchscreen toucan as I could make changes on the fly, but as I'm a shortie with proportionally longer legs, it was always slightly unconfortable to make changes to the toucan whilst strapped in with the harnesses as it was just out of natural reach for my little arms :3 So the toucan is now sold and will be replaced with a CAN based steering wheel button system. Moving forward, I decided to ditch basically all of the interior, other than the dash so an intricate cage could be installed. A rendering of the design of the cage done by JP Cages. Really nice cage, but interior will have to be sacrificed for the pleasure. Between this cage, a seat upgrade, 6 point harnesses, Hans Device & other safety equipment I will have some confidence for the future usage of the car (more details in future!) So a few months ago I took her back into the workshop, assumed my fighting stance and got to work on removing the engine and gearbox. Goodbye 1.5JZ! Engine on the stand looking a bit more naked Luckily have a friend in Finland with a cool Chaser who wanted to go a bit mental on a build, and we struck a deal for him to buy my built head, turbo & intake setup so he could transplant onto his. Leaving me with my old shortblock to put towards a new setup that I can use for some testing. My weapon of choice this time round was a 2JZGE VVTi head. Sometime last year I purchased a number of 2JZGE engines whilst they were still somewhat cheap, so I could use towards this build and have a surplus of spare parts that I can use for development or replacement on this new setup. Here we have my new GE head and old 1J head heading off to machinist. 1J for a quick skim, checkover & clean. 2J head going off to get skimmed, cleaned and have head machined for Kelford 202D VVTi cams & valves set. I'll go into the details of the engine & associated parts in future posts, but the initial engine setup will be somewhat "basic". We have had some fantastic results using relatively basic setups on the 2JZGE VVTi head as it flows so damn well in stock form. So in the name of science I will start with a setup similar to this and push it as hard as I can to gain a baseline of data in terms of performance. From there I'll advance the development of the head and shortblock and record changes relative to the baseline at each stage. With the world getting turned on it's head over the last few year years, the supplychain for parts in the aftermarket has taken quite a bit hit and delivery time for parts are sometimes painful. I had hoped to get most of my parts in by August this year, and whilst I have a nice stash of new parts to go, I have been waiting over 6 months for some, likely to need to wait until the new year for delivery. So the project has been delayed considerable, which has allowed for some signficant project creep to set in. But as we all like photos and shiney parts, here is one of newest parts that I can't wait to test. Garrett G40-1150 is garrett's newest offering to replace the GTX4088, and going off compressor/turbine sizings put it in competing range of a precision 6870-7275. Although the turbo is offered in a vband housing, I opted for a T4 housing just in case the turbo is a bit of a flop and I want to change to something else that uses T4, otherwise my new exhaust manifold would be locked into a garrett vband which only runs a few garrett turbo's. I opted for a 1.06 A/R housing and bought the larger 1.19 housing to do some back to back testing to see what would suit my new high revving 2J head better. Sending off my 1JZ parts to my friend in Finland, which also happens to be the home of PGS transmissions who built my R154 dog engagement box. On a rather vigerous night of testing I managed to damage the dogteeth on my 4th gear dogring with a horrible shift my side, so box will be returning to PGS. PGS have also kindly offered to beef up my input shaft and a few gears with an uprated design after I told them the kind of power and abuse I plan to give this thing. I am enjoying how ridiculous it is to run an R154 based gearbox at these levels, and will keep going till I split this box in half or similar catastrophic failure, then maybe I'll re-evaluate. So fast foward to today, my wiring room at SRD is nearly overflowing with parts ready for the new setup, but until its all ready to go in I need to prepare the car to get its cage installed. The stripdown has begun. Have a few more days remove all the sound deadening, remove the glass and prepare the engine bay. More soon!

Supra has been at RRS for a week now and james & kane have been making some good progress It turns out me eyeing a set of pedals and thinking yeah that will probably fit was off the mark by a few inches, measure twice cut once and all that. With the constrains of the cage and the pedalbox position, the seat had to be moved lower, further back and closer to the trans tunnel, and the firewall needed a small extension built into it to allow the pedals to be mounted further back. Luckily james is similar in size to me, so he was able to place and fabricate all components in a location that suited him well, which ended up working perfectly for me. Next the firewall inserts were welded into place Fast forward a week and I joined the party at RRS for a couple of days. Pretending to be useful with some of the prep work on the car and allowing James to dial in the position of a few bits with me in the car. Steering column was mounted slightly too far to the right by the cage builders, so James on his favourite tool cutting the column out. Then welding it back into place after aligning it with me in the driverseat. Speaking of the driverseat, changed from my corbeau to an OMP 400R after an evening of comparing dimensions between lots of available seats and opting for these as they seemed to be the best fit for myself and the available space in the cabin. Specced something right for once and seat fits lovely for me & very comfortable to sit in. With the seat, pedals and column in place the final piece of the puzzle was getting the new 6 point harnesses installed. Heres me sitting pretty whilst James contorts himself around the bars to get the straps mounted and tight. With the new seat setup I have tons of room between me and any part of the cage even with the padding, helmet and hans deviced installed, so once strapped in should be adequately safe. Here you can see the new framework and fabrication for the driverside. Opted to leave passngerside on the stock setup as there is more room that side so can use normal mounts and probably wont have a passenger seat installed most of the time, so not high on the priority list. With the main interior parts done for now, the rest of the panels and parts still on the car were removed in order to start prepartion for upcoming paintjob. Next we moved to the paint booth to finish few last jobs and start prepping Master painter kane was feeling the love at all my previous layers of engine bay paint jobs as he started prepping for the next round of paint. Should probably bare metal it at some point, but maybe on the next refresh. After a day of preparation we were left with Engine bay prep is nearly finished. Had some 5'' holes cut out for the incoming intercooler & air inlet setup. Still some more work to do on them before they are completely ready, but end is in sight. Also added some AN8 Bulkhead coolant fittings into firewall in stock location so can pass coolant through to new heater core. I did a thing and started cleaning the interior of remaining sound deadening, bitchumen and anything else that was not required. After a few too many beers the night before I was feeling the burn today, but felt like a new man after a few hours of moaning about the cold weather and cleaning up with some power tools. Got another day of prepartion and last minute jobs on the interior to go before its ready for its paint, so more soon!

We all knew already…but it’s great to be once again be officially recognised as “Best Club” at Yakuza show today. Thanks to the efforts of @Burna, @wile e coyote, @tooquicktostop Burna : “I like to make everybody happy either organising something or entertaining, but I wasn’t expecting that” The organiser, Nigel said “they said they would bring a lot of cars, we didn’t believe them, but they pulled through with a string attendance of over 30 Supras” @Branners “Burna pulled his finger out and saved the day to get it organised with the help of the others to represent the club brilliantly” Congratulations also to @arnout won also best engine bay! Thank you to all the volunteers who helped to make it a huge success, cooks, pot washers, tidy uppers and everything else that goes on behind the scenes. It was a great show with good friends, huge laughs and general comradery. Post your pics and videos here:

Im planing on paying off my house using dash panels, an engine mount and a ODO. Im undecided if i want to put in a pool, if i do then im willing to part with a working ashtray

So as ive been making / reproducing parts that have been discontinued etc from Toyota to keep these cars on the road for the last couple of years, my latest part is the front bumper reinforcer / impact bar as i get asked for a lot so decided to make a big batch of them. I was luckily enough to have the last few from Toyota, kept one back for a template as well as the factory used ones..... i actually weld all the way around unlike Toyota do on the end caps and also the ends are also curved as they are intended to be for a safety point of view and more importantly to fit properly unlike others ive seen on the market which are straight and don't fit the bumper energy absorber / bumper correctly as they are curved too so don't push in properly!..... Some pics below....to show oem / mine and the differences. All hand built and fit 100%. Cost per item is £200 plus del and i can ship anywhere in the world..... if you need one, just pm, email or call me....All payment methods accepted too. Please note, these are for off road / show use only as nobody is willing to lend me their supra to do a crash safety test on for some reason. Kind regards Keron Keron

I’ve not been keeping this thread up to date as I don’t think many people read it. However things have progress well the last few weeks. 1) Despite a couple of minor fixes the car is driving great. The idle sorted itself out after a few drives 2) passenger upper rear arm is replaced and the car has had a full alignment. 3) The car seems quite laggy, it’s got all the stock power at high end but seems to spool up much later on the 2nd turbo than I remember. This might be due to it being a stock UK engine but it doesn’t feel very quick. Next step is to get a boost gauge and see what boost pressure I’m seeing and when. Maybe a lazy isv or similar. 4) after much discussion with @evinX we decided to get Kev to paint it at home. This car will be used on the track so there’s no point spending £5-7k on a paint job only have it ruined. Ghetto option it is. Cost is going to be a fraction of the cost but obviously it involves a lot more labour. Some pics below for the first stage (rear quarters and all the mid-matched panels). Next step is for Kev to paint the bonnet and front wings then assess what to do about the doors and sills. Following that it’s time for dozens of hours of wet sanding and polishing. It should look pretty good when it’s done.

So not much to add apart from ceramic coating added and underneath sealed to protect

Picked up the car from RRS last weekend and brought back to SRD HQ. Quick glamour shot First job on the list was to see how the dash was going to work the new cage setup. Stripped the dash of everything but the dash itself Took some measurements between my car and a stock supra we had here in the workshop. Very quickly it looked like the dash was not going to fit very well at all, at least in stock form. Definately going to require a lot of cutting to get around the new bars. Spent about 30 minutes debating with myself if I should molest the dash or try and sell it. This dash was in reasonable condition, but it was far from perfect so I think if I tried to sell it I wouldnt get crazy money for it due to some imperfections. In the end I tossed a coin and I landed on heads. Time to cut this baby up. The requirements of the dash going forward are: - Once mounted, it needs to be able to removed from the car as easily/quickly as possible. With everything bolted in, there is very little room inside to remove big bulky items, especially once the windscreen is back in. It's bad enough on a stock car, but now I have even less room due to cage and very time consuming to remove everything that can get in its way on the way out. Dash needs to come out with a few bolts being removed and minimal fuss. - The dash needs to be rigid enough to support the Motec dash and a few panels, but otherwise will serve no other purpose, other than keeping the interior feeling vaguely like a Supra still. As cool as the car is stripped out, I would miss the factory dash sweeping down in front of the driver position. So after a bit of head scratching and a chat with another Supra owner who has a similar cage setup, I decided to cut the dash into two pieces. Not going to lie, I cried a little cutting it like this haha. The passengerside of the interior will house all the electronics, heater core, fluid resevoirs and whatever else I can cram in there. Driverside will just hold a few panels and the motec digital dash, so if I need to mess around with anything it will likely be on the passengerside most of the time so will useful if I can just remove that half of the dash and leave driverside alone where its difficult to remove steering columns, pedalbox, seat etc. After lots of cutting the left side of the dash fits in something like this. Still needs a bit more shaved off in places in future, but it clips into OEM clip mounts at the top. Next up was the driverside. Unfortunately my cage front support bar goes right in place of where all the stock dash frames to mount the panels and combination meter. So after a lot of chopping that now also goes in So with a quick test of everything loosely in place we are left with something like this. Next up for the dash is to make some custom brakcets in various places that will support the dash pieces in the correct place. Once thats done, I might flock the dash or do something along those lines just so the cut line between both sides of the dash is a little less obvious. Then I'll move onto the panels, will either run the factory panels and modify to work with the above, or build some custom panels out of ally to fit into the above. Haven't decided which way to go yet, but will figure it out as I go. I figured the dash was going to take some work, but this has quickly grown into a project of itself. Be interesting to see how this turns out. After all that trauma it was time to move onto something a little more light hearted. Yay shiny new parts First up is the PHR brushless fan kit. Although the viscous has served me well for years, I wanted better accessibility to the front of the engine with enough fan power to keep this car as cool as possible. Had seen some good results on another car with these so figured I'd give them a go. They are PWM controlled brushless fans, so maximum amperage per fan is 25amps which is decent and likely wont need them running anywhere near maximum output most of the time. ECU control will let me ramp these on/off, so no massive jumps to the charging system when they kick on. These are quite chunky fans, and PHR have done a nice job with the shroud with built in flaps to allow excess air at high vehicle speeds to bypass the shroud like on many modern OEM cars. Next from PHR is this cool oil temperature/crank case pressure fitting that goes into the oil level port on the sump. I like the idea of the temperature probe sitting in the oil in the sump rather than somewhere further upstream on the oil system that could be prone to heat soak depending on where its mounted. Between this sensor and another temperature sensor mounted on the outlet of the oil cooler I should have decent visibility on the overall engines oil temperature and cooling performance. Quickly slapped some sumps on the engine and threw the engine into the car for the first time. For a quick test fit I'm happy so far. Obviously missing the turbo side currently, but overall looks nice and simple. Other than having to get creative with mounted a powersteering pump somewhere, the bay should look very similar to this when all is said and done. Lots of room for activities! Test fitting some new OEM VVTI GTE cam covers and they look alright, but by the time I modify them to fit what I need I think it will be better to go with a billet valve cover. Unless Plazmaman get some VVTI covers going soon, then I'll probably end up going with some hypertune valve covers. Not sure on a colour scheme either yet. I normally just make everything black on the engine, which will probably look ok but feel like trying something new this time round. If anyone has any good suggestions then I'm all ears!

After removing the head a few months ago I stripped the block down to inspect the state of the rotating assembly components shortly after. The engine didnt do a lot of miles but used to get the shit kicked out it and occasionally had around 900ft.lbs of torque going through it, so I was expecting some accelerated wear in places. Back when I built this engine, the machinist found some slight egging in the center main journals on the crank and wanted to sort this by undersizing the crank. Depending on who you speak to this is a nono with 2J cranks, but I was up for an experiment so he ground the main journals down and I've been running 0.25 oversize bearings since. I thought for sure after the abuse it had gone through I would see some sort of wear on the mains, but upon inspection they were still in great shape, so decided to run them again with the same bearings and continue to monitor how they get on. The rod bearings had some slight wear on the edges of the bearing, but nothing abnormal or anything to made me worried so decided to keep them again. So as everything is in good enough condition to reuse it will serve perfectly as my test mule whilst I gather some data once its up and running Specs are: Stock 3.0 Crank (0.25 Mains, STD Rods) Factory Main Caps with ARP Main Studs Manley Platinum Pistons 9:1 87mm Manley H-Tuff Rods Clevite Bearings OEM Oil Pump The aim of this shortblock is to support this next stage of development as best it can, getting abused mainly on the dyno and maybe a few events in the real world. I'm sure it will meet its demise at some point as the components arent exactly all that exotic so will be interesting to see where the breaking point is. Whilst the engine was in pieces I had to block sent to machinist just to give the bores the tiniest bore/hone possible, compared to the last bore finish we are going to try and very coarse finish on this to see what it looks like after seeing lots of E85, and if ring seal is any different with lots of boost relative to the last bore finish. Other than this rest of the block is going back together exactly how it was. I want to forget how many sets of core plugs I've changed on my engines over the years as I normally install a new set when building a new engine. Luckily PHR to the rescue with this with their stainless core plug kit. A bit pricey, but reusable so hopefully can transfer to any future blocks in future. Install/Removal is super simple with the threaded hole. Stuck them in the freezer for an hour to let them shrink slightly, then using a long M8 bolt, knocked each one into place on the block in seconds. Was done in a few minutes, awesome! Gave the block a clean and quick lick of paint and looks great with new core plugs Then installed the crank back into block Got pistons to go next and headwork at machinist was just finished, so might have a longblock ready to go by the end of the week.

Up at the crack of dawn again to head north to get the car from JP Cages. Thanks to Mr @Wheelynutz towing in true 90's fashion. Covered 550miles round trip, and I was a useful passenger only falling asleep a few times throughout the long haul. (This is my excited face) Landed and ready for the next bout of work at Retro Road Sports Josh at JP Cages was interesting in making some front/rear strut braces for the JZA80. So after showing a few popular designs and features that they included he came up with some test pieces for me to take back to SRD HQ and fit on various Supra's to see what fitment is like. This front strut is just tacked together for testing, but is based on the TRD style that we all know and love. Only this one has adjustable height for the strut beam, so might be able to clear a big single and has a brake master support bracket. Here is the TRD style rear strut brace which I think is very cool, never seen one for the rear before. This also has some height adjustment available and access to suspension dampeners. Will see how these fit on a supra hasnt been gutted and maybe after a few revisions will be available soon. Cool to get some simple but new parts available for the platform. Didn't have much time to test the pedal positioning properly, but threw them quickly into where they should be going and grab a quick photo. Need to adjust the pedals further back slightly, maybe mount the base slightly higher up the firewall and maybe move the seat back another inch and should be onto a winner. Will be back to RRS in the next week to continue with this. In the meantime need to get a new driverseat sent to them so we can dial this in finally before the rest of the fab work on the firewall begins. Finally, managed to get a sweet deal on a Motec PDM15 that I couldnt resist This PDM hasn't got enough I/O to take over all the functions of the vehicle, but is large enough to control all the new & non oem electronics that are going into the car. So rather than having to integrate my new systems into the OEM fusebox and wiring, I can now leave all that largely stock and run everything else from the PDM15 which is a relief as it will simplify my wiring a tad and make future additions/removals from the wiring system easier as I wont have to touch the stock wiring every time. I smell a large session in front of my wiring diagrams tomorrow as I integrate this little guy into it.

Some more progress today, Engine bay should be done later in the week Will leave to cure day or 2 before tapping off fresh paint on the inside 1544a95f-e71f-40e7-bc2b-04ac2410f1d8.mp4 c193f02f-35e4-4306-9cca-44ef942b607f.mp4

As usual waiting on parts (or in this case numb nuts here ordered the wrong ones ). In the meantime @evinX and I got on with the bodywork side of things. 1) Rusty rear crash bar is finally removed! Kev brought his welder over to try and tig some nuts to the remains of the old bolts but it just wasn’t working. Ended up cutting them up with a grinder so I could hammer a socket onto the remains. That worked out well in the end 2) brand new crash bar installed. I’ll get the bodyshop to paint this when it goes in. 3) Replacement rear bumper is fitted. Used mostly new hardware for this. This luckily still had the bumper foam fitted. 4) Kev fitted the replacement side pods, hockey sticks and side panels, again they came with almost all the hardware. These are OEM ones that someone gave for me free in exchange for sourcing some parts. I think I got the better end of that deal! 5) Started assembling the new front bumper, but since the bolts I ordered were too short we had to stop. 6) redid the IC pipes as one blew off on the last run. Found a couple more were loose so removed them and refitted and put clamps on all. 7) FMIC is now removed. For the time being I’m going to use a stock side mount. Fmic will go into storage until it’s either needed or sold. Next job is to finish the fuel pump once my DR-25 heat shrink shows up. Then test again and see if the new pump has solved the fuelling issue.

Loving this thread, some lovely Supra's here! I don't post often, but here's my contribution: Since this pic I've had a few more visual changes, so I'll come back and post once I get a chance to take a decent pic. Half of the pics I have are on my bloody driveway

Car collected from its nut and bolt check after its initial run in. Absolutely love this car. Drives like new and looks amazing. One of one. BIG thanks to SRD and the whole team for their efforts and making this happen. Project managing their heritage build right down to each nut and bolt. Thank you to Paul Cheshire for the box refresh, Baldy for paint, Phil for the interior, Chris for parting with the car and everyone who sourced, sold, swapped or bought parts from or to me. Couldn’t not of done it with out you all and been a pleasure to meet you. Honestly believe we have created one of the best oem examples of a late TT6 RSP in the U.K. possible Europe maybe World wide…. Who knows, show me another! Looking forward to enjoying it with Jett and the family this summer…. Thanks for checking my build out. ps “If you are thinking of restoring your pride and you joy…. I can’t recommend enough SRD’s heritage programs, with packages for all budgets and tastes. Give Lee a shout.…”

The lad did good….. how many of these did we throw away back in the day? Now I am sourcing one and polishing it. How times have changes

Tried to upload some videos above but they didn’t seem to work so I stuck it on YouTube.

Afternoon All. So had an update from Matt today, shell is prepped and ready to paint once we get some electrical work done on the 8th June. After that it should be all steam ahead with getting it re-assembled. Fingers crossed my new wheels arrive in time as had confirmation from Driftworks they are done, just waiting for next shipment and then they can be sent out to me.

bit of an update from an insider for toyota.... those prefacelift headlights after some hard thinking from japan Toyota and my comments on their facebook pages etc..... they have kindly reduced the prices down to £2067.54 plus vat (£2481.05 inc) retail price.....

Morning guys and gals, A small update to the thread, not much has been happening lately with the car. Attended a few shows and managed to win 2nd place best of show which was fun. First place was a 1 of 1 NSX which was a worthy winner. I've had a small leak on my steering rack for the better part of a year so decided to eventually get it fixed with a referbished rack from Andy @ Unrivaled Supras this brought up another issue afterwards and the PS pump decided it didnt want to pump anymore so we fitted a referbed pump also. Thanks for Andy for the quick turnaround. I also fitted some of SRD's new jacking pucks which should make future work easier and changed the diff oil and recharged the AC.

So with the car running, it was onto the dyno for some engine run in and some testing and setup of all the new pieces to see how it all reacted. Engine run in mainly consisted of loading up the engine at 150ft.lbs, then doing some low power sweeps to 5000. Varying that for a while, and do-ing some cooldowns and starting the process again. Noticed my oil pressure was a bit lower than i remember and noticed I left my thermostatic sandwich plate blanked off as I didnt want run in oil circulating through the oil cooler which was a bit of an oversight in a rush to get the engine started. The bypass orifice in the sandwich plate to the filer isn't massive, so was restricting flow a bit. Luckily wasnt running the engine super hard, so got away with that. Inspected the oil filter/cam caps/turbo filter and vvti filter and all clean with no debris. Took the thermostat completely off now till it the oil cooler is needed for the real world, changed the oil to 10w60, slapped a new filter on and oil pressure back to normal, healthy 8 bar at 8000rpm. Before ripping it to 8000+, I had to address the ECU firmware as I was still running on the Motec GPA package, just to get the engine started. With 12 injectors, lots of CANBUS data & 8HP integration to worry about I went to a JRR Motorsport Firmware, as it gave me some needed features. Overall the package seems like a step in the right direction, but not sure its going to fufill everything I'm requiring. Also had to track down a weird issue with the cam sync. For whatever reason, compared to the GPA package the cam sync hysterises seemed a lot more sensitive to noise. At the time I wasn't sure if this was down to a mechanical change or a difference between the coding of each package. As a sanity check, I went over the VVTi system and changed the cam sensor to another unit and swapped to a spare VVTi pulley in case the old one was jamming slightly and throwing off the cam position. Luckily with no front engine covers and a barebones approach to the engine, this was a really quick job I could do on the dyno in 15 minutes whilst keeping crank pulley on. If I lost cam sync randomly I could load back in the GPA package and it would fire up perfect and rev out no issue, then swap back to JRR and 50/50 it would drop out using the same settings. In the end had to adjust my hysterises values a bit higher then expected to get rid of any potential noise on the signal, even though the triggerscopes between both packages were the same. Weird, anyway been fine since. Next issue was the CANBUS and the M150 running out of available CPU processing power. Trying to bring in data from my EGT Module, LAM2CAN, CANTCU, PDM's, M1 Trans/Recieve Info, Turbosmart blackbox & Steering wheel controls seemed too much for the CPU to handle concurrently. So had to streamline some of the data incoming/outgoing to keep CPU load around 90%. The new firmware is also limited to how much custom CANBUS addressing can be used, so another limit I should of paid better attention to. At this stage of the development I don't need oversight over every little detail, so could pick and choose the most important information for now. In an ideal world I want all information being logged and referenced from a single point to make the data collection a simple process. My options going forward is to: a) Jiggle around some of my canbus setup, so a bit more things get recieved/transmitted and logged by the C1212 to spread the load, then I'll have to pull logs of ECU & Dash after each run and merge them in I2 for checking (not preffered). b) Get a developer license for the ECU and embark on the quest of streamlining a custom firmware package just for this car and I can get rid of any resource hogging things I'm not requiring and setup the canbus and various functions for how I'd like to see it. I'm actually up for this but comes at a decent price in terms of cost and time invested to get the result I need, so need to see what kind of mood I'm gonna be in as this progresses. c) Bin the M150 and go back to a Syvecs which can just squeeze on all the information via Canbus I require and does everything I need from an 8HP perspective from having done a lot of them for customer builds. Next issue with the Motec is the lack of granularity on some settings that I'm used to with the Syvecs. In fairness it runs the engine absolutely fine and is simple to use so I get the appeal, but feels a bit wattered down/restrictive now I have to worry about the 8HP and modifiers for things like what to do in each gear with idling/fueling/timing and reacting to torque reqests adequately. Some other functions like lambda control/boost control/throttle maps etc do the job, but again lacking some finer control I'm used to having. Annoyingly there is no package that I've found that ticks all the boxes for my requirements, even though the M150 hardware side of things is all there for it. Thats about the only issues I've had on the electronics/ecu side of things. Everything else has gone to plan so far. Got the steering wheel working, so I can choose P/N/D/R, drive modes/shifter modes and paddles all from the steering wheel. The C1212 dash displays all the info & warnings I need to know about whilst on the dyno and PDM's have been providing power just fine. Got a new revision for the keypad roll bar mount. Sits nicely above me near the roof of the car and houses some of the body/engine functions as well as the MSEL driver cut off switch. So with the oil changed, I could get into some power tuning and was a mixed bag of results. Generally happy with performance but need to make a few changes. The EM Raceport electronic blow off valve is sweet. Works just like a normal blow off valve under normal operation, then you can energise the solenoid and stop vacuum/pressure being fed into the top part of the BOV diaphram, essentially opening the gate. My main aim for this was to create a small air leak whilst staging the car for launch control to get the turbo speed a bit higher than normal to continue some momentum in the turbine after the launch. Might have to rethink this slightly as the Raceport does a fantastic job of depleting basically all the boost pressure in the pipe. Can do a run to redline with the BOV open and wastegate completely shut and I might see 0.3 bar boost by redline. I'm not super bothered about having the BOV functioning as a BOV should, so I'm either gonna have to move to a smaller orifice on the pipework to tune the amount of bleed it can do till I get the result I need. Or maybe if I can PWM the solenoid at a high enough frequency, maybe I can adjust the amount the valve lifts at various duty cycles. Need to check with turbosmart if they rate their solenoid for that kind of action. For now I'll leave it as a "normal" BOV and activate it in case of overboost as a safety backstop. Next is the turbosmart 50mm electronic straightgate and blackbox. What a cool piece of tech. So above is a log from a dynorun. Bringing in some of this info about the gate and the control system of the blackbox over CANBUS into the M1, so I can check what its up to and start to understand how its reacting to my commands. Currently I've started with the most basic way of controlling the gate by using a boost PWM signal from the M1 to the Blackbox. This is the same type of signal used to control normal MAC/Pierburg boost solenoids. The blackbox converts the PWM signal, into a target area signal which the blackbox converts into a valve position target as the target area and actual valve position are not on a 1:1 scale as the flow through the gate isn't linear. From there the electronic motor moves to valve into its required position and turbo makes some boost (Or not!). Overall this sytem works really well. I had a few struggles with the JRR M1 package, as ideally I need to send a high side PWM signal to the blackbox, so when 0% duty is requested the valve remains shut and 100% = open. However, I could only send a low side PWM signal so 0% duty = open and 100% = closed. This isnt a massive issue, other than if the blackbox actually recieves 0% duty, it will close the gate, so I have to cap my signal to 0.1%, when requested the gate to stay completely open or it shuts itself which was annoying cause a boost spike. In future I will move away from the PWM signal and send a target position area directly through canbus, so I can avoid the above situation. Although I've got this system working ok at the moment, I need to do a bit more work on it. The gate itself moves quickly and the current draw averages 2-5 amps, spiking to 25amp momentarily if you really snap is hard against the upper/lower limits of its travel. However as it flows differently than a typical poppet style valve took me a while to understand when and how much to open/close it. The PID system controlling the PWM output signal is also very slow/gentle at the moment whilst I was getting my head around it. I think if I make that a bit more aggressive and increase the frequency of changes, then I can get snappier changes on the gate itself, more like how an OEM electronic wastegate is controlled. So bit more work to do there, but the gate does work. Also super cool to open/close to the wastegate whenever you like, even at idle if needed. Look ma im a drag car. Only one small issue with the boost control, which I don't think is actually a gate issue but I'm getting some decent boost creep even with the gate wide open. If I leave the throttle wide open during a pull with the gate completely open, it slowly creeps from no boost to 1.7 bar after 7000rpm to redline. Guessing this is a manifold/wastegate priority issue, but I'll do a run with the gate completely removed to confirm. If it still does it, then will need to modify the design of the manifold routing slightly. Manifold needs to come off at some point to get the gate recirced & wrap the downpipe etc, so can tackle it all then. For now if I shut the throttle to 80% WOT, then I can control the creep, but trade off some engine efficiency/power at the top end which I'd rather avoid. So after playing around at a few different boost levels and dialing in the map, went to start making some decent power runs at 2.0 bar boost Not too shabby so far, but max RPM limit for gearbox was being reached before the power started rolling over completely. Quick conversation with kenneth at CANTCU and he sent me a revision that would let me rev to 8800rpm. ZF rate the max output shaft speed of the gearbox at 8000rpm, so in 6th gear at 1:1 i was exceeding that slightly, but figured a few hundred RPM more wouldnt hurt in a quick burst. However for anyone trying this, do not do this in 7th or 8th gear as you will easily overspeed the output shaft at much lower RPM's. So next run tried to bring it on slightly more progressively but overshot my mark a bit, closed up the VVTi angles at the top end after 7500rpm added a degree of timing and 0.1 bar boost more and she screamed nicely to 8600rpm. Before/After TCU changes Impressive powerband for stock GE VVTi head with some springs and cams on petrol. In reality I'm coming on boost a bit quicker than the dyno shows, but my inductive pickup keeps having a shitfit with the IGN1A coils and inteference, so had to calibrate RPM using wheel speed calibration which works, but I lose some accuracy down low as the wheel speed/gear ratio changes through the run due to tyre deformation. I think for petrol, I won't be running much more than 2 bar boost as its getting a bit close to detonation threshold on top end, so not much point chasing a number. If anything I'm gonna remove a few degrees up top to give me a bit more headroom, and offset that versus whatever gear / enviornment conditions the engine is going through in real world, even if it costs a few ponies. But it's looking good for making 1000whp at 2 bar of boost on E85, so wasnt a million miles off in my hopes. Some data from the sensors I've got hooked up so far. ETS 5'' doing a lovely job of keeping things cool even with 145C going into it. Got around 2-3psi pressure differential through the intercooler, which dosen't upset me that much for the cooling performance. No pressure drop going through the throttle body WOT so that good news too. I need to get my fabrication on 5'' intake pipe sorted, then I'll get it flowed and scale the MAF sensor correctly so I can really track what airflow through the turbo is, but as a rough guide matching up turbospeed and pressure ratio of the turbo gives the above (with a pinch of salt). Looking fairly well sized for the job though, and more room to grow with some more boost pressure in future. Can even see on my fast rate IAT sensor when the compressor wheel starts going closer to the choke point of the compressor map as temperatures rise. So overall decent progress with bringing this machine back to life. Gonna take a week spending some time doing normal people things and seeing the outside world then I'll get back to it after some more development and changes. Should have all my EGT's, lambda's, EMAP/DMAP sensors installed on the next go, so interested to see what thats going to show. Hopefully get some E85 action in as well.

After installing all the wiring, I went through the process of powering on each loom, checking I didn't have any major issues. Then started a preliminary setup of the power distribution modules to get power to all the places it needed to go based on various keypads/buttons in the car. Started to get excited as starting up the engine seemed closer than ever. All the looms seemed to be behaving and nothing caught fire, so off to a good start. And then disaster! The PDM15 that I had bought second hand a while back was always a bit glitchy, even on my test bench. Technically it worked, but the communications over CANBUS were a bit hit and miss. Once I started setting up the rear of the car and testing the lights/fuel pumps and putting around 100amps through it with everything turned on, it made a strange noise and CAN communications failed entirely. I triple checked my rear loom, made sure I wasnt shorting out on anything, couldnt find anything wrong. Bench tested the PDM and still couldn't get any signs of life from the comms system, so I went home pretty grumpy. Decided I wasn't going to let this get in the way of me starting the engine, so got in contact with Dave @ EPS. He was happy to take the PDM and send it off for inspection at Motec, and in the meantime I bought another PDM15 so I could keep the party going. Depending on what they find is wrong with it and hopefully fix, then I'll either keep as a spare or sell on to recoup some moolah, as a last minute purchase on a new PDM was a bit of kick in the teeeth, but teaches me for buying second hand stuff The next morning the PDM arrived and I was back in business. Plugged it in and immediately worked like it should, phew. So that night it was crunch time. Continued setting up all the electronics and CANBUS communications. You know its getting serious when both laptops are on duty. The list of jobs was long, but after a few hours I had done enough so that all the electronics would do a thing, checked all the inputs/outputs and made sure all sensors had the correct linearlizations to read correctly. Also removed the factory immobilizer from the 8HP gearbox and got Kenneth from CANTCU to flash on a custom tune for a 8HP75 just to get me going and letting the box rev to 8K without trying to upshift. The following morning it was a scramble to get the rest of the mechanical systems all checked/cleaned and primed ready for first start. Ended up taking the entire day as I had a few leaks from coolant system and some other setbacks. But eventually got everything dialed in and with a small audience tried to get the engine to start. Unfortunately it cranked but didnt want to fire the coils or injectors. My brain and body was fried after a whole day or work so I called it there, took some startup logs and triggerscopes and went home. Sat in bed looking over my initial tune on the Motec, I noticed I hadn't set my threshold voltages low enough on the cam sensor for it to get detected when cranking. Cool easy fix, fell asleep like a log and got up super early the next morning. Uploaded the new tune into the ECU, fired the engine and it started like nothing ever happened. But it ran like shit, and wanted to cut out. Scratched my head a bit as to what was causing it as all vitals/sensors looked perfect. The issue was actually a very welcome suprise. The 90mm GM throttle body I chose to use went above and beyond what I was expecting. Normally on a larger throttle body you need less throttle angle at low engine speeds as it will still bypass a decent amount of air in order to maintain idle. However, due to the design of the throttle housing around the blade on the GM throttle you get a lovely deadzone at lower throttle angles that flows less air when throttle is closed. This picture sums it up between a regular throttle and whats going on with this one. So essentially I can get any potential flow benefits from a larger throttle whilst keeping amazing idle quality, just means I have to use larger throttle opening in the tune relative to what I'm used to seeing. So adjusted my idle and throttle flow maps and she purrs like a kitten. Idling at 900rpm at Lambda 1 thanks to the great throttle airflow and ID1050x primaries.

I then installed the lights themselves.

Group chat For UK mk4 owners, message me if you want to be added 07769 353333 Jamie

Wanted to get this up to celebrate getting my Supra back on the road after a decade in the garage and to recognise the great work of both Jason @ Dyernostics and Paul and his team at Whifbitz making this happen. Was great to see after 10 years off the road everything come together so quickly from when the engine came out at Christmas to the car being mapped this week! How it all started Car started like this in 2006 as a Jspec GZ Auto, bought from club member kghelmet. I was just 23 and couldn't believe I got a Supra, especially when my last car was just a 1.8 litre Rover Coupe! Bodywork I then proceeded to mess with the bodywork like most did and got it kitted out with a trial rear, OEM sideskirts and Do-Luck front - some of which I'm now trying to undo but it was in trend at the time! Upgrading a few bits Then some new suspension, wheels, facelift rears, FMIC Ditch the auto - Manual Conversion. And why not get a single while at it! I then managed to get what now seems like the deal of the century when AFR were offering manual conversions to take my auto GZ and fit a V160 and big diff. Cannot believe how much more it would cost to convert today! I also saw another Supra getting a larger turbo setup and caught a great deal on this Amuse GT30 single setup, making modest/BPU power but with some of those great single turbo noises. Had to then change the Blitz Nur Spec to a Whifbitz twin box exhaust due to the extra noise! Bigger single - it never stops! Then I started to get the bug for more power, open wastegate etc so started looking for a single kit. I took the car off the road and over the course of several months started fitting a bigger PT6262 dbb single setup on my driveway. New Whifbitz 264 cams and valve stem seals first Fuel pump Manifold, Turbo, Wastegate Then found issues with my side feed injectors so went top feed and ID725s And then change of plans with the turbo - new BEP S362 Billet Batmowheel Battling through the weather and not having a garage! But finally completed it, paired with an AEM v1 and off to Ryan at 2barTuning to see what it could do. It was a nail biting experience waiting to see if you've put everything together right and get through mapping but everything went great, Ryan commented on how well it was running and it made a healthy 624HP @ 1.5bar on the stock engine, with just the injectors holding it back from getting a little more! Result! Too good to be true Much fun was had in driving the car for the following year, until it came to a non-dramatic but frustrating end a year later when I broke down in Cheddar Gorge. Opened the bonnet to find a very unhappy engine with the exhaust cam seized in the head Turned out to be just the No1 bearing in the end - rest of the head was fine but this wasn't going to be an easy fix. A decade without a Supra So this was the state of the car 10 years' ago. I bought my first house, with a garage and my Supra just lay in the garage ever since as the house took priority. Fast forward to 2020 Middle of COVID, house renovation completed - what better to do but start trying to get the old girl back on the road! Quick bit of cleaning and inspection underneath Corroded brake and fuel lines, so changed them New discs, pads all round and freshen up the calipers Off to Dyernostics for an Engine Rebuild But there wasn't much I could do myself so it was about time I called in some expert help from a friend of a friend to get my engine rebuilt. Enter Jason @ Dyernostics who kindly took on the job, so it was on the back of a trailer and down to Cornwall for the work. Not hardly a day goes by before I get an update - engine already out and block off to be honed Unfortunately however, looked like something hard had gotten into cylinder 6 at some point, with damage to piston and scoring in the bore. OK, so now it's a forged bottom end No good putting back together with the damage so back to the machine shop the block goes to bore out to 87mm ready for some Manley forged oversized pistons, promptly fitted! ARP head stud kit Race spec head from ShaunPreece fully rebuilt with supertech valves, guides, GSC beehive springs and retainers, shimless buckets and 264 cams Pretty much ready to go in Just missed out on getting back into the engine bay before Christmas but a week later and all done! She's Alive!! She lives again!! What a great sight to see the engine in and running! Now for the long drive back from Cornwall - just what I need to get used to a Supra again! All broken in and off to Whifbitz! Several weeks of running in to do and not many gaps in the weather to do it but fast forward about 2.5 months and I get a decent amount on the new engine for it to be ready to go to Whifbitz for: Syvecs S7i and sensors FIC 1000cc injectors Fuel pump Whifbitz R35 coil pack conversion Replacement OEM rear upper arms Some mapping! Again, just a few weeks wait for Paul and his team to work their magic, with all these bits being bitted and both a leak down and compression test giving the new engine a clean bill of health! Result!! Then came the mapping with some very pleasing results: https://fb.watch/54jCtbbcEm/ I did have an issue with my nearly 30 year old coil packs causing a misfire at 1.2 bar of boost, hence the R35 coil packs being fitted. I ended up with ~670HP at the flywheel or 584HP at the wheels and plenty of torque too. The car is damn quick, at least for me after I've spent the last 10 years driving a 140HP diesel or riding a motorbike! Big grin and some giggles on the drive home! Getting back behind the wheel of a big single Supra again has made me realise how much I missed it - I should have done this a long time ago! Thanks!! Again I need to thank both Dyernostics and Whifbitz for taking great care of my car and getting it back on the road. I've been really pleased with how they have treated the car and me and the quality of the work that has been done. You've made my year so far! Next up is some tidying up of the bodywork, perhaps get rid of my solid flywheel and just maintain and enjoy it for a bit!

Morning Guys, So car is home safely after a long weekend of driving the new to me V161. Had an event to attend in Bristol, so took a day off Friday, train to London and then a train to Haywards Heath where Ash kindly picked me up. Drove home to Kent, picked up my Wife and off we went. Got to have been at least 400 miles of driving, so nice long first drive! Clutch feels good and isn’t heavy, but stop/start driving in traffic on the motorway was a challenge. Car drove great and didn’t really falter, apart from a small idle issue when pulling to a stop (seems to dip too low and almost stall before returning to normal). Lee and the guys will check the map data for me and hopefully just a small tweak to make it perfect. Car had a good spot at the show in Bristol and attracted lots of interest, big shout out to Lee, Mike, Ash and the team at SRD for getting it done in time, just need to find some time (and a large open space!) to do some figure of eights to bed the new diff in. Cheers all.

Manged to squeeze in a few more hours of prep work on saturday with Kane before I had to head home. Kane sheeted up parts of the car that needed protection from the incoming paint job and I removed the rear panel in the boot so I could get some more clearance for fitting some components in the boot. Interior got its first pass with a sander and panelwipe to key up all the various panels and parts. Hopefully the next large update will be with the new paint in place, but the guys at RRS still have some more time to continue prepping and doing some last minute jobs before that can happen. Looking forward to the paint being done as I wont have to worry about the cage or interior rusting out over the coming months whilst I piece together the rest of the build. If all goes to plan then might be done by next weekend.

And a few more photos.

In the meantime, another important part arrived. A front crash bar from @keron since these are long discontinued and impossible to find used. I’m really impressed at the quality of it and it lined up perfectly on a test fit. While I was getting all the oem bumper items ordered I didn’t realise that these are pretty essentially to supporting the bumper foam and helping hold the bumper in the correct place to prevent sagging. Lesson learnt! The bumper I had on there had no foam and no support and after years it slowly sagged to the point of not being easily reusable. So far I’d estimate the cost of replacing the front bumper is running close to £1k not including paint. That’s also reusing the lower bumper trim, alu strips and facelift bar. If active spoiler was included I think the price of a whole oem facelift front bumper assembly these days would easily cost £2.5k before paint

Love looking through threads like these.

You want to budget about 18k, I got the hook up on alot of bits for abit cheaper then normal, spent a touch over 16k myself and got a few bits in the engine done like hoses and rubber parts too whilst it was in. There were garages that quoted me 10k ish for it but when you look deep into their work and you can see why, corners skipped everywhere. Rusty bolts under parts that "won't be seen" lines that are just painted over etc Mine was fully stripped down to every last fixing Paul treats a project as if its his own and sent detailed photos every day it was in there, over 200 hours went into it in the end and it now drives like the day it left the factory!

First nursery run with Jett

90% there… couple of bits to sort when the car goes back for its run in check, now back with me to put a few miles on her. What do we all think?

Results are awesome!! Sunlight pictures coming soon!

Coming on well now

Hi Tyson, time will tell mate, but think it should be ok. Matt got the rear screen back in today with the new correct OEM rear seal (thanks Paul at Whifbitz for supplying) and the fuel filler flap cover. Rear is almost done and looking mighty fine.

Thank you both. Have to say a huge thanks to Matt at M H Bodywork who not only painted the shell on Saturday, but was back in Sunday flatting and polishing it. He’s half way and have to say it’s looking amazing! Getting so close to re-assembly now, can’t wait.

I’ve never modded a car thinking about resale value and don’t plan to start now

More body parts into high build primer.

Yesterday was the big day! Mapping! I didn't realise it was being done until Mike sent me the dyno graph.. 666whp! Absolutely crazy. I thought I'd be lucky to make 650bhp let alone whp Mike said the car performed faultlessly on the dyno which was nice to hear. It sounds incredible.. and honestly that was half the reason i built it. I was never really chasing figures or trying to build the fastest supra.. i just wanted it to be pretty fast and make all the right noises - and im pretty sure I've achieved that just cant wait to pick it up and drive it now!! received_703117118490175.mp4 received_565302922422746.mp4 received_557913493087143.mp4 received_939789413974971.mp4

We managed to get a few hours on the car this afternoon, if all goes well we should hopefully be ready to get the drivetrain in at the weekend. 1) Rear main seal is replaced. We used Kev’s seal tool for this, bought from someone on the forum who makes these. Brilliant bit if kit and worked perfectly! We cleaned up as much oil and gunk as possible from the back of the block before installing. Used ARP flywheel bolts as they’re cheaper than stock and have easier supply. 2) Flywheel installed. It’s a low mileage used one but perfectly serviceable. Will obviously be replaced when the final gearbox goes in 3) Competition stage 2 clutch kit from Keron fitted. I have one of these on my other supra. Feels almost like stock, just can take a bit more torque. Also added a pic of the underside of the trans tunnel as I forgot to take a picture last time

Don't drive it that much but have some nice pics for you so... why not ? ^^'

@Noz Loves nothing more than to give members rings a good polish.

how do you explain this then.. https://makeagif.com/i/Q0hxFC