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3 1/2 years on I have finally test fitted one of the OE wheels to the car. It's service time ready for its planned Summer European tour and the BBS wheels are off. The front pair are 8 years old and the rear pairing 12 years old. Although they still have 6-8mm tread due to very little road use they are too old to go racing up and down the Autobahn with. So the OE rims will be getting a new set of Michelin tyres over the next few days. The OE wheels use different nuts to the BBS alloys. I did buy a set of nuts back in 2021 which fit as they should so everything is ready for the mobile tyre fitters to add some tyres. I'll get on with the oil and filters service plus a quick hard brush down tidy up underneath while the car is up on the ramp.

So wheel arch finished rubbing back now, as is the cubby, rear quarter section and above the fuel tank. Have applied some phosphoric acid to it also Going to epoxy tomorrow, then take a break for a week or so, let my hands recover. Then it’ll be drivers side wheel arch and cubbies

I've now finished running the fuel and brake lines under the car. I have a twin brake line setup as although the car is a facelift body, it has the non-VVTi engine, so still retains the earlier brake setup. At the front of the car there is a connector block for the brake lines to connect to and a bracket that holds the fuel lines. I do have a new brake pipe connector, but I chose to reuse my old zinc plated one. Once the pipes and brackets were all secure I refitted the pipe covers. I found out that my front one is broken at the tip, so I will need to replace this. I then installed the new bulkhead brackets so that I can start reinstalling the pipework along the bulkhead. This also allowed me to secure the fuel tank breather hose that was still flapping around in the engine bay. I reused the original zinc plated bolts here instead of the new ones I bought. I then decided to install the anti-roll brackets. These were torqued to 18Nm as per the manual. The brackets are original and have been powdercoated. Bolts are new. I have Titan anti-roll bars, so that is why the lower brackets look different. These are new lower brackets and bushings from Titan. I then installed the front heat shield. This is original and powdercoated and the bolts and nuts are all original and zinc plated.

I'm just such a hero I could do it all by myself

I've also now installed the assembled rear subframe. Info about the subframe rebuild can be found earlier in my build thread. I used new bolts to secure the subframe. The rear 8 x bolts were torqued to 58 Nm. The same torque is applied to the 2 x nuts that secure the rear bushes the the actual subframe. The 2 x front bolts were torqued to 175 Nm. Remeber to install the two lower cups too (easily forgotten). I then installed my new HKS Hipermax S rear struts. I used new bolts, nuts and washers to secure the suspension. There were also a set of spacers that came with the HKS kit to ensure the correct fitment of the rear stud to the lower suspension arm and associated bolt. None of the other suspension bolts have been tightened. I'll do that later when the car is ready to be taken off the body dolly and the wheels installed. I'll jack the hub /knuckle to the correct ride position and then tightened everything up. Final thing was to ensure the ABS sensor leads were pushed up into the cabin from underneath.

I also did a few other small bits. Window trim. I had previously installed the new yellow grommets, but have put on the front window seal rear guide. These parts are discontinued, so I had to use my originals. Fortunately they are in good order. However, I have purchased new screws. I then installed the steering column boot to the inside of the car. I have reused the boot and bracket, but replaced the bolts.

Ah! A Donald J Trump thread, I'll have to visit this later Quite appropriate as a customer last week saw a MAGA hat on my bench and asked whose it was. I said it was mine, my wife bought if for me. " Well he said, it doesn't give a very good impression of the sort of person working on my car". I was a bit miffed so had to reply, "If we are judging each other by our personal belongings I wonder what the nodding dog on your parcel shelf says about you?"

I'm back at it again. I've fitted the bonnet stoppers. The four bolts got lost during the respray, but James at Retro Road Sports came to my rescue and gave me the 4 bolts. Even better they had been zinc plated. For reference these bolts are now discontinued by Toyota. Got the fuel lines, fuel tank and ancillaries all fitted now. The three fuel lines are all brand new as are all the clips and fasteners. I replaced the rubber fuel hoses with SAE J30 R9 hoses. The OEM rubber fuel hoses aren't ethenol resistant, but R9 hoses are and are as used on modern cars. I replaced the breather hose on the fuel tank a few years ago as this was discontinued and my original was rusted badly. I installed a new clip for the fuel lines, the old one had become quite brittle. This was surprisingly difficult to fit as the bolt is made from plastic and I was terrified it would sheer as I tightened it up. I think the bolt cuts a thread in the clips as it is wound in, which is why there is quite a bit of resistance. I used my gearbox jack to position the fuel tank up into position and to fit it. I bought new tank straps and bolts. I had the fuel tank straps powdercoated because the factory finish was far too thin. Had to make sure the new flexi primary fuel line was routed under the plastic ducting on the fuel tank. This needs to be done before the fuel tanknis fitted as its next to impossible to fit this once the fuel tank is installed - I found this out the hard way! Fuel tank in and straps attached. The straps bolts need to be torqued to 49 Nm. I then ensured all the fuel pipe brackets and fixings were tightened. Next was the fuel tank guard, which had also been bought new and then powedercoated. I also had new bolts (there are 6)and the two protective strips. I retained the rubber grommet from my original fuel tank guard to reuse. This rubber grommet stops the plastic wheel arch liner rubbing on the the fuel tank guard. Not sure what the two protective strips do, but Mr T put them there for a reason. Once fitted I installed a new trim piece to hold the rear bumper to the tank guard. All finished.

I know forums can go offline for maintenance but this one does it so often now. It already seems pretty dead sadly but these drop outs must make it even harder to jump on.

Wow, I thought this would be the hardest part but it turned out to be the easiest. Sure enough, once you peel back the carpet there's so much room there, glad they did that! Getting the tape off the looms and trying to get the wire thru the doors was another story...

Your insane i said id help with that subframe. Now granted i also said im afraid to touch the car but still

I've now installed the bulkhead pipe work. I've also installed the aluminium part of the front subframe. More details about the work and parts for the subframe can be found earlier in the thread. Main subframe bolts torqued to 125 Nm. Steering rack bolts x 4 torqued to 75Nm.

I've now installed the engine bay bulkhead pipe work. First were the two rear brake pipes that rund from the ABS actuator to the union pipe at the base of the nearside of the engine bay. I managed to get pne new a the other I had to reuse as it is now discontinued. I was also able to still get a replacement near side front brake pipe and losely install it. I then installed the two pipes that run from the brake reservoir. These were both new replacements. I then installed the pipe from the clutch reservoir to the gearbox. I reused my original pipe. Finally I installed the offside front brake pipe. This is annoyingly discontinued, so i had to reuse my original pipe. I then installed the two pipe spacers. The larger one goes on the back of thevpipes whwre the HVAC drain pipe comes through the bulkhead. The other spacer separates the two pipes going into the brake reservoir. I then installed the new clutch master cylinder. Although I bought a new guard and bolts I decided to reuse my zinc plated old ones instead. Next was the repainted brake booster.

There's room to run the wire up behind the radio over the transmission tunnel.

Very retro. It's going to take a bit of getting used to after 27 years on the BBS alloys.

If you remove the pin, it will allow the door to open wider. The hinges in the doors have a stop to prevent the edge of the door fowling on the wing and base of the A pillar if opened wide. But I'd still be careful.

I forgot I had this. Anyone any clue as to what it is worth?

Same as non-heated wing mirror glass, just pull from the bottom. Heated glass part numbers are: 87931-14590 Mirror Sub-Assy, Outer Rear View, Rh 87961-1B130 Mirror Sub-Assy, Outer Rear View, Lh.

Oh yes, I will be there this year

Hotel is booked too. shared room with two single beds.

They hadn’t removed the spare bookings for the ferry so that is booked. I just need to sort the hotel for you

Done!

The cut off for the ferry bookings is today and there’s a chance I may not be able to get another ticket. only 3 cars booked this year. But if you want to come along please pop in to the shop and buy a ticket asap and I will see if I can recover one of the unused ferry reservations.

Hi everyone Im trying to sell my Evo 9 auto wagon. its just sat surpluss to requirements at the moment. She needs some cosmetic work in some areas, and has got a couple of things wrong with her. Buit she is a great car with a fresh MOT. My daily driver for 8 or so years and has been excelent to me. Time to move her on. Happpy to take an offer on price. especialy if its through the forum for a nice easy sale Heres the pistonheads add. Any questions let me know. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/18145690

Haha fuck off Taylor.

I hadn't planned to, but can if people think it might be useful. Outside of my own annotations, this is just info from the Toyota EPC.

Any car is welcome mate! Be great to see you again!

Not a lot to report just yet, been slowly beavering away at the underside. Why? Not really sure but I’m anal and I knew I’d regret it if I didn’t do it all while it was out. Hoping to have rear section finished being rub down to bare metal by Sunday, then going to green scotch it all up so it’s a little more keyed, then rust convert any hard to reach parts then straight into epoxy before I start on the mid section. So far rear section below boot has been done, passenger wheel arch almost finished, just getting into the small pockets off space either side of the boot is a real challenge. Will smash out drivers wheel arch then get it all blown off and panel wiped if I ever decide to do this again, it will be on a rotisserie for sure.

Hi All, Had a few Supras in my team, my last one was a black triptronic vvti 1998 sold back in 2016, think I have seen it floating around on the forum still. Looking for another project, ideally a black tt auto or triptronic so will be on the search

I don't All the old parts were removed and placed into bags or boxes that related to the parts catalogue pages. They are then reviewed by me to see if I can reuse / refurbish or replace them. All new parts are listed on an excel workbook I've created. Green shows a part I want to buy, grey shows an unavailable part and blue a reused part. Here is one of the pages I created. The new parts are then placed into the corresponding box or bag. Despite all this I still get stuck, or forget a bit and have to redo the install - like the fuel pump loom when installing the fuel tank.

Thats awesome work dude, how do you remember where everything goes? Especially when you're dealing with new parts in new bags with just part numbers on em....

Thats awesome and crazy clean i love it!

What are your plans for the car when it's done? A museum piece? Or a show queen for the fine Summer days? Or a garage queen that rarely sees the light of day? Or a regular out and about tourer? It's likely to be a tough call. When I took my Supra to the club stand at the 2016 NEC Classic Car Show there were a bunch of Toyota GB guys dropped on the stand. The leader of the pack bounced over and said to me, right colour and to not use it except to run down the MOT station once a year. It's been pretty much like that for the last 8 years but I'm looking forward to taking it on a 3,000 mile European tour this Summer. More nervous about how it'll hold up on the Autobahn than I was when it last travelled there in 2002 seeing it's all original under the bonnet baring the usual service items. It's a nice kind of nervous though, to get the excitement back. A proper grand tour accompanied by my petrol head daughter who I'll be adding to the cars insurance for the first time. I found spending so much time and effort and money on the car in 2017 made me reluctant to dirty the underside. Hopefully you won't gain the dirt and puddle phobia that I fell to and find the time and desire to use the car to it's fullest potential; just wincing only a little bit as you pass through that unavoidable puddle. Part of the grand tour has me heading across a number of passes in the Alps, one being where the Top Gear bods stood looking down the snaking road when in search of the best driving road in Europe. That is right on the Swiss/Italian border so the plan that day is breakfast in Switzerland and lunch on the Italian peak. I'm planning to get a good photobook of memories with the car and daughter then I'll print that off into a booklet. Then, it'll probably be back into the garage to rarely see the light of day. Or, hopefully not and it'll become a more regular travel partner. Or my daughter can take it on, she was 3 months old when I bought the car so it's been a constant for her and a driving desire. To sum up, cars are more than metal and the Mk4 Supra is no ordinary car. Enjoy.

Might be worth speaking with an ECU repair service to see if they can help. Quick internet search shows these: https://bluehawkelectronics.co.uk/services/ https://www.autotronics.co.uk/repair/services/ecu-repair https://www.ecutesting.com/about-us/

beautiful!

When you fit the subframe it is tempting to grease up the nuts and threads but it is important to resist the temptation as all Toyota torque specs are on dry threads. I applied liberal amounts of grease to the bolt heads after tightening to prevent future corrosion but I doubt you'll want to dirty yours like I did mine. The badly corroded bolts I found when I did my rear end work were the 10mm ones at the rear end on the tank guard and exhaust hanger. So those got big globbings of grease on the renewed bolts. I used to work in the oil industry and there is one additive used as an EP additive in some gear oils, amine phosphate, that blocks rusting like you wouldn't believe. You only need 0.02% in a base oil and coated steel never rusts even bare metal sprayed with hot salt water. I've often looked for somewhere to buy the stuff but I only ever come up with Chinese sources in big quantities. I wish I had grabbed some when it was an on the shelf bottle. It's so good it should be an off the shelf item at Halfords. https://www.unpchemicals.com/ep-aw-additives/amine-neutralized-mixed-phosphate-esters-psail-2280.html

Morning guys and gals, A small update to the thread, not much has been happening lately with the car. Attended a few shows and managed to win 2nd place best of show which was fun. First place was a 1 of 1 NSX which was a worthy winner. I've had a small leak on my steering rack for the better part of a year so decided to eventually get it fixed with a referbished rack from Andy @ Unrivaled Supras this brought up another issue afterwards and the PS pump decided it didnt want to pump anymore so we fitted a referbed pump also. Thanks for Andy for the quick turnaround. I also fitted some of SRD's new jacking pucks which should make future work easier and changed the diff oil and recharged the AC.

That used to be my car. Bought from Charlesworths around 2003/4 and sold a year later. Beautiful car but running costs and insurance were hefty. Did see it online parked inside an MR2 trader but those images have disappeared off google

So not much to add apart from ceramic coating added and underneath sealed to protect

I bought these about 4-5 years ago, before they were discontinued. I bought them through TCB Parts.