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So with the car running, it was onto the dyno for some engine run in and some testing and setup of all the new pieces to see how it all reacted. Engine run in mainly consisted of loading up the engine at 150ft.lbs, then doing some low power sweeps to 5000. Varying that for a while, and do-ing some cooldowns and starting the process again. Noticed my oil pressure was a bit lower than i remember and noticed I left my thermostatic sandwich plate blanked off as I didnt want run in oil circulating through the oil cooler which was a bit of an oversight in a rush to get the engine started. The bypass orifice in the sandwich plate to the filer isn't massive, so was restricting flow a bit. Luckily wasnt running the engine super hard, so got away with that. Inspected the oil filter/cam caps/turbo filter and vvti filter and all clean with no debris. Took the thermostat completely off now till it the oil cooler is needed for the real world, changed the oil to 10w60, slapped a new filter on and oil pressure back to normal, healthy 8 bar at 8000rpm. Before ripping it to 8000+, I had to address the ECU firmware as I was still running on the Motec GPA package, just to get the engine started. With 12 injectors, lots of CANBUS data & 8HP integration to worry about I went to a JRR Motorsport Firmware, as it gave me some needed features. Overall the package seems like a step in the right direction, but not sure its going to fufill everything I'm requiring. Also had to track down a weird issue with the cam sync. For whatever reason, compared to the GPA package the cam sync hysterises seemed a lot more sensitive to noise. At the time I wasn't sure if this was down to a mechanical change or a difference between the coding of each package. As a sanity check, I went over the VVTi system and changed the cam sensor to another unit and swapped to a spare VVTi pulley in case the old one was jamming slightly and throwing off the cam position. Luckily with no front engine covers and a barebones approach to the engine, this was a really quick job I could do on the dyno in 15 minutes whilst keeping crank pulley on. If I lost cam sync randomly I could load back in the GPA package and it would fire up perfect and rev out no issue, then swap back to JRR and 50/50 it would drop out using the same settings. In the end had to adjust my hysterises values a bit higher then expected to get rid of any potential noise on the signal, even though the triggerscopes between both packages were the same. Weird, anyway been fine since. Next issue was the CANBUS and the M150 running out of available CPU processing power. Trying to bring in data from my EGT Module, LAM2CAN, CANTCU, PDM's, M1 Trans/Recieve Info, Turbosmart blackbox & Steering wheel controls seemed too much for the CPU to handle concurrently. So had to streamline some of the data incoming/outgoing to keep CPU load around 90%. The new firmware is also limited to how much custom CANBUS addressing can be used, so another limit I should of paid better attention to. At this stage of the development I don't need oversight over every little detail, so could pick and choose the most important information for now. In an ideal world I want all information being logged and referenced from a single point to make the data collection a simple process. My options going forward is to: a) Jiggle around some of my canbus setup, so a bit more things get recieved/transmitted and logged by the C1212 to spread the load, then I'll have to pull logs of ECU & Dash after each run and merge them in I2 for checking (not preffered). b) Get a developer license for the ECU and embark on the quest of streamlining a custom firmware package just for this car and I can get rid of any resource hogging things I'm not requiring and setup the canbus and various functions for how I'd like to see it. I'm actually up for this but comes at a decent price in terms of cost and time invested to get the result I need, so need to see what kind of mood I'm gonna be in as this progresses. c) Bin the M150 and go back to a Syvecs which can just squeeze on all the information via Canbus I require and does everything I need from an 8HP perspective from having done a lot of them for customer builds. Next issue with the Motec is the lack of granularity on some settings that I'm used to with the Syvecs. In fairness it runs the engine absolutely fine and is simple to use so I get the appeal, but feels a bit wattered down/restrictive now I have to worry about the 8HP and modifiers for things like what to do in each gear with idling/fueling/timing and reacting to torque reqests adequately. Some other functions like lambda control/boost control/throttle maps etc do the job, but again lacking some finer control I'm used to having. Annoyingly there is no package that I've found that ticks all the boxes for my requirements, even though the M150 hardware side of things is all there for it. Thats about the only issues I've had on the electronics/ecu side of things. Everything else has gone to plan so far. Got the steering wheel working, so I can choose P/N/D/R, drive modes/shifter modes and paddles all from the steering wheel. The C1212 dash displays all the info & warnings I need to know about whilst on the dyno and PDM's have been providing power just fine. Got a new revision for the keypad roll bar mount. Sits nicely above me near the roof of the car and houses some of the body/engine functions as well as the MSEL driver cut off switch. So with the oil changed, I could get into some power tuning and was a mixed bag of results. Generally happy with performance but need to make a few changes. The EM Raceport electronic blow off valve is sweet. Works just like a normal blow off valve under normal operation, then you can energise the solenoid and stop vacuum/pressure being fed into the top part of the BOV diaphram, essentially opening the gate. My main aim for this was to create a small air leak whilst staging the car for launch control to get the turbo speed a bit higher than normal to continue some momentum in the turbine after the launch. Might have to rethink this slightly as the Raceport does a fantastic job of depleting basically all the boost pressure in the pipe. Can do a run to redline with the BOV open and wastegate completely shut and I might see 0.3 bar boost by redline. I'm not super bothered about having the BOV functioning as a BOV should, so I'm either gonna have to move to a smaller orifice on the pipework to tune the amount of bleed it can do till I get the result I need. Or maybe if I can PWM the solenoid at a high enough frequency, maybe I can adjust the amount the valve lifts at various duty cycles. Need to check with turbosmart if they rate their solenoid for that kind of action. For now I'll leave it as a "normal" BOV and activate it in case of overboost as a safety backstop. Next is the turbosmart 50mm electronic straightgate and blackbox. What a cool piece of tech. So above is a log from a dynorun. Bringing in some of this info about the gate and the control system of the blackbox over CANBUS into the M1, so I can check what its up to and start to understand how its reacting to my commands. Currently I've started with the most basic way of controlling the gate by using a boost PWM signal from the M1 to the Blackbox. This is the same type of signal used to control normal MAC/Pierburg boost solenoids. The blackbox converts the PWM signal, into a target area signal which the blackbox converts into a valve position target as the target area and actual valve position are not on a 1:1 scale as the flow through the gate isn't linear. From there the electronic motor moves to valve into its required position and turbo makes some boost (Or not!). Overall this sytem works really well. I had a few struggles with the JRR M1 package, as ideally I need to send a high side PWM signal to the blackbox, so when 0% duty is requested the valve remains shut and 100% = open. However, I could only send a low side PWM signal so 0% duty = open and 100% = closed. This isnt a massive issue, other than if the blackbox actually recieves 0% duty, it will close the gate, so I have to cap my signal to 0.1%, when requested the gate to stay completely open or it shuts itself which was annoying cause a boost spike. In future I will move away from the PWM signal and send a target position area directly through canbus, so I can avoid the above situation. Although I've got this system working ok at the moment, I need to do a bit more work on it. The gate itself moves quickly and the current draw averages 2-5 amps, spiking to 25amp momentarily if you really snap is hard against the upper/lower limits of its travel. However as it flows differently than a typical poppet style valve took me a while to understand when and how much to open/close it. The PID system controlling the PWM output signal is also very slow/gentle at the moment whilst I was getting my head around it. I think if I make that a bit more aggressive and increase the frequency of changes, then I can get snappier changes on the gate itself, more like how an OEM electronic wastegate is controlled. So bit more work to do there, but the gate does work. Also super cool to open/close to the wastegate whenever you like, even at idle if needed. Look ma im a drag car. Only one small issue with the boost control, which I don't think is actually a gate issue but I'm getting some decent boost creep even with the gate wide open. If I leave the throttle wide open during a pull with the gate completely open, it slowly creeps from no boost to 1.7 bar after 7000rpm to redline. Guessing this is a manifold/wastegate priority issue, but I'll do a run with the gate completely removed to confirm. If it still does it, then will need to modify the design of the manifold routing slightly. Manifold needs to come off at some point to get the gate recirced & wrap the downpipe etc, so can tackle it all then. For now if I shut the throttle to 80% WOT, then I can control the creep, but trade off some engine efficiency/power at the top end which I'd rather avoid. So after playing around at a few different boost levels and dialing in the map, went to start making some decent power runs at 2.0 bar boost Not too shabby so far, but max RPM limit for gearbox was being reached before the power started rolling over completely. Quick conversation with kenneth at CANTCU and he sent me a revision that would let me rev to 8800rpm. ZF rate the max output shaft speed of the gearbox at 8000rpm, so in 6th gear at 1:1 i was exceeding that slightly, but figured a few hundred RPM more wouldnt hurt in a quick burst. However for anyone trying this, do not do this in 7th or 8th gear as you will easily overspeed the output shaft at much lower RPM's. So next run tried to bring it on slightly more progressively but overshot my mark a bit, closed up the VVTi angles at the top end after 7500rpm added a degree of timing and 0.1 bar boost more and she screamed nicely to 8600rpm. Before/After TCU changes Impressive powerband for stock GE VVTi head with some springs and cams on petrol. In reality I'm coming on boost a bit quicker than the dyno shows, but my inductive pickup keeps having a shitfit with the IGN1A coils and inteference, so had to calibrate RPM using wheel speed calibration which works, but I lose some accuracy down low as the wheel speed/gear ratio changes through the run due to tyre deformation. I think for petrol, I won't be running much more than 2 bar boost as its getting a bit close to detonation threshold on top end, so not much point chasing a number. If anything I'm gonna remove a few degrees up top to give me a bit more headroom, and offset that versus whatever gear / enviornment conditions the engine is going through in real world, even if it costs a few ponies. But it's looking good for making 1000whp at 2 bar of boost on E85, so wasnt a million miles off in my hopes. Some data from the sensors I've got hooked up so far. ETS 5'' doing a lovely job of keeping things cool even with 145C going into it. Got around 2-3psi pressure differential through the intercooler, which dosen't upset me that much for the cooling performance. No pressure drop going through the throttle body WOT so that good news too. I need to get my fabrication on 5'' intake pipe sorted, then I'll get it flowed and scale the MAF sensor correctly so I can really track what airflow through the turbo is, but as a rough guide matching up turbospeed and pressure ratio of the turbo gives the above (with a pinch of salt). Looking fairly well sized for the job though, and more room to grow with some more boost pressure in future. Can even see on my fast rate IAT sensor when the compressor wheel starts going closer to the choke point of the compressor map as temperatures rise. So overall decent progress with bringing this machine back to life. Gonna take a week spending some time doing normal people things and seeing the outside world then I'll get back to it after some more development and changes. Should have all my EGT's, lambda's, EMAP/DMAP sensors installed on the next go, so interested to see what thats going to show. Hopefully get some E85 action in as well.

After installing all the wiring, I went through the process of powering on each loom, checking I didn't have any major issues. Then started a preliminary setup of the power distribution modules to get power to all the places it needed to go based on various keypads/buttons in the car. Started to get excited as starting up the engine seemed closer than ever. All the looms seemed to be behaving and nothing caught fire, so off to a good start. And then disaster! The PDM15 that I had bought second hand a while back was always a bit glitchy, even on my test bench. Technically it worked, but the communications over CANBUS were a bit hit and miss. Once I started setting up the rear of the car and testing the lights/fuel pumps and putting around 100amps through it with everything turned on, it made a strange noise and CAN communications failed entirely. I triple checked my rear loom, made sure I wasnt shorting out on anything, couldnt find anything wrong. Bench tested the PDM and still couldn't get any signs of life from the comms system, so I went home pretty grumpy. Decided I wasn't going to let this get in the way of me starting the engine, so got in contact with Dave @ EPS. He was happy to take the PDM and send it off for inspection at Motec, and in the meantime I bought another PDM15 so I could keep the party going. Depending on what they find is wrong with it and hopefully fix, then I'll either keep as a spare or sell on to recoup some moolah, as a last minute purchase on a new PDM was a bit of kick in the teeeth, but teaches me for buying second hand stuff The next morning the PDM arrived and I was back in business. Plugged it in and immediately worked like it should, phew. So that night it was crunch time. Continued setting up all the electronics and CANBUS communications. You know its getting serious when both laptops are on duty. The list of jobs was long, but after a few hours I had done enough so that all the electronics would do a thing, checked all the inputs/outputs and made sure all sensors had the correct linearlizations to read correctly. Also removed the factory immobilizer from the 8HP gearbox and got Kenneth from CANTCU to flash on a custom tune for a 8HP75 just to get me going and letting the box rev to 8K without trying to upshift. The following morning it was a scramble to get the rest of the mechanical systems all checked/cleaned and primed ready for first start. Ended up taking the entire day as I had a few leaks from coolant system and some other setbacks. But eventually got everything dialed in and with a small audience tried to get the engine to start. Unfortunately it cranked but didnt want to fire the coils or injectors. My brain and body was fried after a whole day or work so I called it there, took some startup logs and triggerscopes and went home. Sat in bed looking over my initial tune on the Motec, I noticed I hadn't set my threshold voltages low enough on the cam sensor for it to get detected when cranking. Cool easy fix, fell asleep like a log and got up super early the next morning. Uploaded the new tune into the ECU, fired the engine and it started like nothing ever happened. But it ran like shit, and wanted to cut out. Scratched my head a bit as to what was causing it as all vitals/sensors looked perfect. The issue was actually a very welcome suprise. The 90mm GM throttle body I chose to use went above and beyond what I was expecting. Normally on a larger throttle body you need less throttle angle at low engine speeds as it will still bypass a decent amount of air in order to maintain idle. However, due to the design of the throttle housing around the blade on the GM throttle you get a lovely deadzone at lower throttle angles that flows less air when throttle is closed. This picture sums it up between a regular throttle and whats going on with this one. So essentially I can get any potential flow benefits from a larger throttle whilst keeping amazing idle quality, just means I have to use larger throttle opening in the tune relative to what I'm used to seeing. So adjusted my idle and throttle flow maps and she purrs like a kitten. Idling at 900rpm at Lambda 1 thanks to the great throttle airflow and ID1050x primaries.

Morning guys and gals, A small update to the thread, not much has been happening lately with the car. Attended a few shows and managed to win 2nd place best of show which was fun. First place was a 1 of 1 NSX which was a worthy winner. I've had a small leak on my steering rack for the better part of a year so decided to eventually get it fixed with a referbished rack from Andy @ Unrivaled Supras this brought up another issue afterwards and the PS pump decided it didnt want to pump anymore so we fitted a referbed pump also. Thanks for Andy for the quick turnaround. I also fitted some of SRD's new jacking pucks which should make future work easier and changed the diff oil and recharged the AC.

Back into the engine bay: - Mounted racegrade EGT on chassis rail - Installed all 7 lambda sensors - Ran vacuum lines - Made some hardlines for oil - Coolant hardlines for electronic gate + turbo - Changed the JUN cam pulley bolts with some ARP variants so they didnt rust - Started filling and bleeding any fluids where required etc. Starting to get closer to the goal of having mechanical systems ready to go, but I couldn't find a nice way to run 6 lambda sensors wires in a neat way, which was a bit annoying as everything else in the bay looks fairly neat and wireless. New plan with this is to build a breakout box that will sit on top of the exhaust cam cover using 8STA connectors for each sensor. Again a bit overkill, but I think it be icing on the cake in terms of looks and function. Currently have some 3D printed models that we've tested, but still need to finalize design and get it created out of billet before its ready for its unveiling. So more on that once its ready. Christmas 24' holidays were coming up, had a few weeks where I could focus on my car and get the wiring started. In the run up to that, spent a few more days staring at excel, going over pinouts and finalizing the plan. The holiday started, moved my car into the workshop. Closed the doors, told my family I was in spain with a girl so they would suspect I was doing something normal with my life. Instead I measured up all parts of the loom, and shut myself in the wiring room, huddled around the heater for two weeks. The long process of concentrically twisting the engine bay, engine, interior, rear and roof harnesses had begun. It was very time consuming but I'm happy with the results. All wiring done with M22759 spec wires ranging from 26AWG to 12AWG for various signals/powers/etc. All wrapped in DR25 sleeving with a sprinkle of ATUM/SCL in places. Opted not to label anything as I prefer the stealth look, and I know where everything goes. Some of the twisted sections going for a few meters really pushed my small table to the limits, and tested my patience many times. Very irritating trying to twist looms with 4 meter long wires when you can't spread everything out in a large area. But managed to get the job done, so can forget it happened now. Looms are currently installed on the car for testing and setup, havent finished booting the bulkhead connectors till I'm 100% happy that its all working as intended and I dont need to go in to modify anything. I'll grab some photos of the finished pieces when i remove them to do that. Next I made some mounting brackets for some of the bulkheads and did a final reshuffle of the electronics on their mounting plate. Also removed the X20 E888 expander, as managed to condense all my I/O onto everything else as I found a CAN based weather station module that cut down on the need for an extra 5 independnent analog sensors in the engine bay. Final thing on the wiring list was the ECU's to breakout bulkhead connectors. Went back and forth in my head a few times about whether to twist all these + wrap them same as the rest of the looms. In the end I decided not to as this section of loom is pretty modular and open to me making lots of changes in future compared to everything else that is pretty set in stone now. I still have some doubts about whether I'll keep the M150 ECU or possibly even change the gearbox to a different type of 8HP, so for now all this wiring is remaining like this until I have a better idea on what route to go with next after some testing. I'll probably neaten this up some more though once I've got everything tested.

Next arrival was this custom 4'' exhaust backbox. I wanted to keep the 4'' system as quiet as physically possible using only one backbox, rather than multiple boxes throughout the system. Mainly for simplicity, and keeping the weight of the exhaust as low as possible, whilst mounting the heavy bit behind the rear axle. Although the pipe is 4'', its surrounded by another 4'' of baffle, so total diameter is 8'' by 550mm length. It's filled with a "race" baffled system, which is used to keep rotary cars quiet on track days. Have used a 7'' version of this on a customer car and it was wonderful, so went a bit bigger on mine to see if it fits and if its any quieter. With the new backbox ready to go, Ash got to work on the rest of the exhaust sytstem. As my firewall and underside of the car isnt completely factory anymore, there was less room than normal to fit a 4'' system so Ash had to get a bit creative with some bends to get around everything. She's a tight fit but it turned out great. Although I will recirc this wastegate tube, leaving it to atmosphere for the first dyno session to hear how it sounds and allows for easier diagnostic of the electronic gate in case thats required. Need to pull the manifold off when doing the head porting, so will get recirc done at the same time when we can build the manifold on the bench as there is no space to do much with it installed on the car. Had to shave a bit of the rear bumper to get the backbox in there fully, but cant really tell from the outside so not a big deal. Backbox will sit a bit higher soon, just waiting on some lasercut mounts to come through so we can mount backbox securely, but looks promising even with some cable ties holding the rear of the exhaust up. Few things going on in this photo. 1) Testing clearance to intercooler pipes with wheel at near max compression whilst on full lock. Its tight, a bit too tight. Especially with the front wheel arch fitted, so have adjusted the pipe slightly to get a few more mm of clearance, so shouldnt be a problem now unless I decide to go offroading. 2) Replaced the Turbosmart Raceport BOV with the Turbosmart EM Raceport BOV, which is basically the same other than it has an electronically controlled solenoid ontop of the diapgram which allows the ECU to allow the BOV to function as normal, or for it to open and create a boost leak. Figured this will come in handy during my launch control strategy to get the turbospeed a bit higher with a leak whilst staging. Also got this cool nitrous solenoid from Wizards of Nos that is a bit of different take on your typical nitrous solenoid. I was looking for a solenoid that I could control progressively so I can feed the nitrous into the engine progressively rather than as one big hit all at once. Although you can use a more traditional solenoid for this, typically you cant run super high frequencies for very long through them without failure. This system essentially has an adjustable nozzle/jet, so you can flow next to nothing then step it up to max flow as and when it suits whatever you are trying to do. Looking forward to playing with this.

I have some success.. and some disaster First of all the progress on the headlight intake took a turn for the worst when the drill bit snagged and splintered a large chunk of the lense so thats now gone on the back burner indefinitely lol. In better news though the titanium pipework i had made looks (in my opinion) the bollocks!

Forgot i hadn't updated this in a little while. The project has gone above and beyond what i anticipated for it, but don't they always? Started putting some bits back into the engine bay to make some sort of progress on it. Cleaned up the firewall shield a bit too, scrubbed the loom and got the manual pedals and clutch master in. This is where the fun begins......... the car then went down to see James at Retro Roadsports for a complete welding job including two new sills left and right, a new rear section on passenger side, and manual tunnel swap. I'll let the pictures do the talking here but the work was quite extensive. He did say he enjoyed doing it though and would welcome many more through the door. I picked up the car last week from James and wasted no time in getting the sills protected, started but rubbing them back, masking them up - sprayed in 2k Epoxy then seam sealed. Next step will be to tackle the wheel arches, drop the subframes and clean up the underside

So after a 2 year hunt I found the missing peice of my Miami GT engine bling I'm planning to do a custom rear arch job on the Supra with some new wheels this year so watch this space

Hi again, been another minute since an update but its all starting to come together now. I have done an awful job of keeping up to date with photos, but heres a few snaps that I remembered to take. With the manifold Ash made previously we had a few more jobs on it left. Mainly cleaning up the ports and mounting the individual EGT & lambda sensors. Space certainly becomes a bit tight when running two sensors per cylinder. I would of loved both sensor ports being on top of the runners for servicibility, but space constraints between the head and turbo/exhaust meant that putting the senors above and below was the best course of action. Running Donmega KType Thermocouples for the EGT's and NTK LZA09 for Lambda sensors. Lambda ports are Vibrant Heat Sink bungs. The design of the bungs promote some heat disapation compared to typical weld in bungs and only exposes the very end of the sensor into the exhaust stream. All an attempt to keep the sensors alive as much as possible considering the heat that will be pumping out the cylinders. Also mounted a port for exhaust pressure on the manifold and downpipe so I can track backpressure pre/post turbo. In other news I mounted a new set of slimline Setrab oil coolers in front of the radiator, one for the oil and other for powersteering. Completely forgot to take any photos of it and finished, so heres one of me deciding how I was gonna mount it. Use your imagination to have two of these floating in front of the rad with a 5'' gap between them. I'll grab a photo next time I've got intercooler off. Anyway, the main take away from that is that the coolers are spaced so there is still a gap for airflow to get to the radiator. Have seen it plenty of times where Supra's overheat in summer traffic when front end is stacked with 5''+ intercooler, AC Rad, Oil Cooler, Powersteering cooler and the poor viscous fan just can't pull enough cool airflow through all the cores. So the spacing of the oil/powersteering cooler will help promote flow to the radiator at idle. Done I thought, then I remember as I'm 8HP now, I'm gonna need a transmission cooler. I didn't want to compromise flow to the radiator, and I have no room under the headlights cause some idiot decided to run 4'' intercooler pipes on one side and a 5'' air intake on the other. After much debating I decided the transmission cooler had to go to the back of the car, but again no room. PHR to the rescue again with this lovely 60litre fuel tank. Bolts into factory mounts, uses my existing PHR triple hanger, and gives enough room away from the exhaust to mount a gearbox cooler on the RH side of the car. Perfect! Not a bad compromise only having to give up 10litres of fuel compared to factory 70 litre tank (jdm). Also has a much bigger resevoir pot inside, win win. As I had to remove the PHR hanger, I decided to bench test the pumps as it has been a few years of them sitting in fuel not being used. It's a bit crude but lets me do a pressure sweep from 3bar to 7 bar pressure and confrim if theres any issues. Glad I did as one of the pumps that I've had for the better part of 6 years was leaking with any amount of pressure going through it. Also found a few smaller leaks from the feed lines. So a new 485 and some new feed lines and shes rock solid and leak free even at crazy high pressures. Back in its home and looking good. Also a fan of the bolt in top hanger thingy, no more beating the factory plastic one with a hammer. Also got my 12 ID1050X's cleaned and flowed, annodized the top caps black and fitted some new E85 specific o rings. Pressurized the fuel system, no leaks happy days.

I'm back at it again. I've fitted the bonnet stoppers. The four bolts got lost during the respray, but James at Retro Road Sports came to my rescue and gave me the 4 bolts. Even better they had been zinc plated. For reference these bolts are now discontinued by Toyota. Got the fuel lines, fuel tank and ancillaries all fitted now. The three fuel lines are all brand new as are all the clips and fasteners. I replaced the rubber fuel hoses with SAE J30 R9 hoses. The OEM rubber fuel hoses aren't ethenol resistant, but R9 hoses are and are as used on modern cars. I replaced the breather hose on the fuel tank a few years ago as this was discontinued and my original was rusted badly. I installed a new clip for the fuel lines, the old one had become quite brittle. This was surprisingly difficult to fit as the bolts is made from plastic and I was terrified it would sheer as I tightened it up. I think the bolts cuts a thread in the clips as it is wound in, which is why there is quite a bit of resistance. I used my gearbox jack to position the fuel tank up into position and to fit it. I bought new tank straps and bolts. I had the fuel tank straps powdercoated because the factory finish was far too thin. Had to make sure the new flexi primary fuel line was routed under the plastic ducting on the fuel tank. This needs to be done before the fuel tanknis fitted as its next to impossible to fit this once the fuel tank is installed - I found this out the hard way! Fuel tank in and straps attached. The straps bolts need to be torqued to 49 Nm. I then ensured all the fuel pipe brackets and fixings were tightened. Next was the fuel tank guard, which had also been bought new and then powedercoated. I also had new bolts (there are 6)and the two protective strips. I retained the rubber grommet from my original fuel tank guard to reuse. This rubber grommet stops the plastic wheel arch liner rubbing on the the fuel tank guard. Not sure what the two protective strips do, but Mr T put them there for a reason. Once fitted I installed a new trim piece to hold the rear bumper to the tank guard. All finished.

Brake lines and subframe down Will crack on with underside resto now. Just gotta get some underseal off now

Hey dude, your switches were backwards, the positions should be in the orientation of the black marks as per the translation. Super old thread but might help someone along the way…

Hey, the coolant temp sensor on GE VVTi head is on the side of cylinder head at the front. Also have a k type thermocouple mounted to rear of cylinder head, so hoping that will give me enough scope to see how the CHT is doing. Yeah theres plenty of clutch pack kits and billet replacement parts for this box, so covered for a lot of future power endevours.

We're taking over Caffeine & Machine: The Bowl in May. Everyone is invited and it'd be great to have a big turnout of mk4's at the spot! Details are as follows: Location: Caffeine & Machine: The Bowl (1 Ampthill Rd, Houghton Conquest, Bedford, MK45 3JP) The time slot is 2pm - 5pm, the meet up will be held on the 24th of May 2025, hopefully by then the good weather will be here. As always please follow the rules of Caffeine & Machine and respect the rules they have put inplace (no funny business basically) Tickets can be bought through the Caffeine & Machine website closer to time, tickets cost £10. We hope to see alot of member's there, to see old faces and meet new ones! (Thanks to @raddys for letting us use a photo of his supra)

So next up on the agenda is wiring. Just about to pull the trigger on some very expensive 8STA connectors to cover all the cars requirements and all the wiring to go with it.

To complete the longblock, I dialled in the camshafts then put on the billet valve covers for real And back in she goes for the final time (Also got some new facelift wings to replace the prefacelift ones I had, will paint later on) Next took out the pedalbox and installed and marked everything properly and setup to spec Once pedalbox was back in, I made the last breaklines and started bleeding the brakes. To my suprise everything bled up perfectly first time with no leaks. Buying the right tools certainly helped there!. Next up was the get the gearbox installed properly. Going to send it on the stock converter initially so I can get an idea on powerband before speccing a hi stall later on. Managed to pickup a SFI rated 2JZ flex plate from a customer which was a nice last minute touch. Whilst all that was happening I had sent off a load of brackets and panels for powdercoating in satin black. And heres how it looks with a few of them installed

Haven't updated this in a minute, been chipping away at it slowly. Got another set of TC105N's in 8.5'' to suit the stock front wings slightly better, with some AR1's in 245/40/18. My other TC105N's were 9.5'' and with 265 tyres were prone to touching on the wing on full lock, so hopefully gain a few mm back whilst sticking with the front wing. 9.5 with 265's 8.5 with 245's Might go back to the 9.5's one day, but gave up trying to source a genuine ridox front wing that wasn't going to take 14 years to get delivered. After deciding to remove the stock dash altogether, a panel of some sort was needed in order to mount the dash and provide something dash like to fill the void. Ash started a template that could be built on later on. Whilst I had the subframe out, I started running and routing the new fuel lines (AN10 Feed, AN8 Return + Nitrous AN4 + Battery Ground) Wanted to mount my flex sensor inline on the fuel feed so I didnt get any ethanol% fluctuations on high load when seen when its mounted on the return line. Ran out of room near the engine, so mounted this Nuke Flex sensor Inline adapter under the rear passenger seat. Between crazy busy workshop and travelling abroad for work I decieded to transport the car back to james at retro road sports to make a bit more progress on the car His main tasks were as followed: Fabricate cover plate for transmission tunnel Fabricate cover plate for cabin heater to protect heater core fins Weld up front waterneck & powersteering resevoir Make a plate for ECU's & Electronics to be mounted to + a kickpanel plate to cover it all Mount dash panel properly + integrate a C1212 mount + C1212 Dash Cowling Mount rear PDM Finish off brake lines front + rear Run fire extingisher lines + mount nozzles in enginebay Mount Motec Rear Camera in rear light keyhole. Mount fire extinguisher controller Fabricate rear numberplate mount bar Converter redundant clutch pedal to a driver dead pedal Fabricate fuel brackets & mount for interior. Modify PHR fuel line brackets to accept battery grounds & miscellaneous lines. Once back from my trip abroad, I got the back from James and I pulled everything back out the car as the stage of dry fitting everything was basically done. With the engine back on the stand, I started by fitting a new strainer and tomei baffle kit, with a small mod for the PHR dipstick oil temp sensor. Followed by mounting the upper and lower sumps for real now. With the sumps mounted and the longblock sealed, i finally moved onto installing all the manifolds & auxiliary components properly, marking bolts etc for final fit.

Spent a few hours over the past couple of days tying up some loose ends. First of all i got my windscreen removed and refitted as when we did it the first time after paint, we didn't push it into the recess enough, meaning the seal didn't sit correctly. Bloody nerve racking job and i was sure we were going to break it which would have been gutting considering it was a brand new oem screen 2 years ago.. but fortunately all went to plan. Next on the list was to paint the boost pipe coming off the bottom of the turbo. Eventually I'll have this remade in titanium to match the others, but for the time being I've just colour coded it black to camouflage it a bit thirdly, i blasted one of my radiator brackets then set about wet sanding and polishing it. Still a bit more to go before doing the other one but this is part of my attempt to get rid of some of the purple. I then made a heat shield and riveted it to my bonnet insulation. You've perhaps noticed in some of my previous photos that since fitting this brand new oem bonnet insulation i have rather quickly burnt a hole in it from the heat of the turbo/downpipe which was pretty frustrating. So this hides the hole and prevents further damage. Then last of all i re fitted my strut brace alongside the silicon caps which are enclosed within it to cover the top mounts. Tbh i think it looks ok. The oil filler cap is the next thing to sort out. I've ordered some black AN fittings for the breather lines and some titanium harware. Also the pulleys will be replaced with some polished ones

I know what you mean and if i wasnt planning on putting my strut brace back on then i would buy billet top mount covers. But unfortunately those covers aren't compatible with a strut brace whereas the silicone caps will sit inside. Tbh you'll barely see them with the brace back on.

Wasn't happy so had another good look and found at least these two caps have leaked!

beautiful!

When you fit the subframe it is tempting to grease up the nuts and threads but it is important to resist the temptation as all Toyota torque specs are on dry threads. I applied liberal amounts of grease to the bolt heads after tightening to prevent future corrosion but I doubt you'll want to dirty yours like I did mine. The badly corroded bolts I found when I did my rear end work were the 10mm ones at the rear end on the tank guard and exhaust hanger. So those got big globbings of grease on the renewed bolts. I used to work in the oil industry and there is one additive used as an EP additive in some gear oils, amine phosphate, that blocks rusting like you wouldn't believe. You only need 0.02% in a base oil and coated steel never rusts even bare metal sprayed with hot salt water. I've often looked for somewhere to buy the stuff but I only ever come up with Chinese sources in big quantities. I wish I had grabbed some when it was an on the shelf bottle. It's so good it should be an off the shelf item at Halfords. https://www.unpchemicals.com/ep-aw-additives/amine-neutralized-mixed-phosphate-esters-psail-2280.html

Happy Trump Day guys The missus and I are taking the day off to celebrate his inauguration. I'm just hoping that he'll give Queer Harmer and our incumbent British-hating muppet government a slap or three. Have a good one, Andrew

Coming along, looks amazing the detail and work involved

Sorry, going by the title, I thought this was a Trump post that was more focused on what it means for the US I would agree that things need a shake up here, Trump’s approach to things, however, appears very reckless (at least on the surface).

I genuinely thought you were referring to our limp labour government when you made reference to 'entire economy and working class into the tarmac' ; not sure if you've noticed much recently but Comrade Starmer doesn't give a flying feck about the British working class these days, if ever! I was born and bred in a pit village in County Durham and I can safely say that the red wall in our area is rapidly changing to a Reform colour because the northern folk feel betrayed and let down by Starmer's far-left-leaning policies and his governments morally corrupt MO to running this once fine country. Also, you made reference to POTUS and Ukraine but I have to point out that the poorly thought out actions by this UK Plc over the conflict has shown just how small and insignificant our geo-political reach is now in terms of us influencing other countries and our ability to initiate any form of military intervention(*). If Trump continues to exit Europe as I expect he will do then his actions will leave behind a very politically weak UK because we'll have no 'big buddy' behind us for when things go tit's-up. The question for us all is whether the UK can survive four more years of this morally corrupt government. (*) Just my own personal thoughts as a former army officer with considerable experience in British military interventions.

I think it's a good thing, for too long have Europe been content to sit back on their laurels and not invest in their militaries, focusing on socialism instead. Now they have a nuclear threat on their doorstep and the US is leaving them in the cold. This country has been stagnating under the red and blue halves of a single party dictatorship for the past 80 years, who seem to be wholly short-sighted, unambitious, fearful, and worst of all; adversarial to the interests of their own population. Kier Stalin and the other continental communists will have to make some big changes to stay in power. Otherwise we'll be getting our own Trump, or perhaps something even worse.

That’s how they get you, invest higher amounts of money once they gain more trust and then eventually just rinse you and disappear. There doesn’t seem to be any upside to using it rather than the usual suspects?

$100 says that's a screenshot from the springhill link above? None of the numbers make sense because it's a scam site. Just use trusted platforms like Coinbase and save yourself any grief, especially if you're just wanting to run futures trades on popular coins as they should all be there.

Day32: Is anyone else utterly amazed by the monumental levels of positive change made by the Trump-Vance Administration in his/their first few weeks of office? It's a pleasure and a joy to watch this Trump team dismantle 'the system' piece by piece; this includes the political destruction of the miserable european and British political feckwits who have been content to destroy our once great democracies. Runaway Rodeny(*) is off to the WH next Thursday to get fired by Trump so I'd love to be a fly on those walls. Well done Trumpy and JD. (*) Reference to Harmer after he fled the farmers the other day. P. S. It just goes to show that great things can happen with good strong leadership.

well, i didn't win the S14 that was on pristine comps yesterday so think it's a sign to crack on with this

The lock up of the torque converter operates similar to the gear shift - there is a small clutch that is solenoid operated on /off - the Ecu calculates when it locks …..again a speed signal is used ,along with throttle position and the brake pedal switch (unlocks/locks with brake pressed ) once calculated if in lock or not it operates the solenoid …..it’s again a simple error calc to put up the fault code ie Ecu sends voltage and expects to see a drop in its internal resistor …open or short circuit - what it can’t do is work out if it’s calc is wrong ie a speed signal error or internal capacitor leak - it’s not that smart ! The speed signal is derived from the gearbox sensors (later cars used wheel speeds as well ) and speed is used on other cars like soarer for door locks ,suspension ,shift ,OD and steering - ALL can go wrong if the converter is wrong ! - you can measure the resistance of all the solenoids from the Ecu connector pins -so a quick easy check of wiring - but in the first instance a new converter may fix all issues inc trac

The pink wire soldered is the speed signal wire : speed is used in various areas - it’s used to display the speedo ,and also used by the Ecu for speed limiting ,also used by Ecu for gear shift speeds . Often the speed signal is converted from km to miles - this removes or actually lifts the limiter . A chip is soldered in - behind the speedo or near the Ecu - it has an earth ,a power , and an “in” and “out” wire . These chips very often fail and the speed signal gets corrupted - with various issues . The ECU is used to send commands to the gearbox to shift and go in /out of OD -speed signal is used to calculate when and the ECU supplies a 12v to the gearbox solenoid - the solenoids in the gearbox can fail and do fail . The Ecu supplies 12 v via an internal resistor and the solenoids are earthed internally in the box . If 12v is supplied to say solenoid no 2 - the internal resistance has a voltage drop across it as current flows - the Ecu measures this volts drop …that’s how it decides if there is a fault - the voltage drop is not in limits - it could be too high or too low - it can’t tell ….hence the open or short diagnosis and commonnessnnn fault code . Hence ECU internal fails a possibility - you can swap the Ecu to eliminate , you can swap the speed converter unit ,you can measure the current flow and voltage to the solenoid and listeners to it - a positive click and compare between solenoids . The trac also uses the same speed signal . I would start with the converter ,they are real cheap electronics used in them but

I still think underglow is cool, I'm glad people are bringing it back.

After getting the prop back on i then started to look at how i was going to go about installing the under glow 2 things are for certain. First of all i absolutely do not want to be able to see the actual strips and secondly i refuse to bodge this - like every single underglow installation I've every seen. For some reason people just seem to cable tie it where ever they can or screw it into the floor with zero sympathy for the car. Im going to make proper tracks for it to sit in using angle tray. Keeping it neat, not drilling additional holes into the car and not allowing the strips to be visible. So i bought some 10mm x 20mm aluminium angle tray and made a start on the rear bumper strip I removed the rear bumper lower strip that attaches the bumper to the fuel tank protector and riveted the tray into those holes.

It’s good to see some old names still kicking about and checking in from time to time. It is such a shame that the “forum” days aren’t as popular as they were

I've been a member of this forum from Germany for a long time...we drive the Supra all over Europe in the summer, the Supra is now 31 years old and has 45,000 km, which is about 28,000 miles. Here is a picture on the Silvretta High Alpine Road in Austria from 2024 Many greetings from the Rhine near Koblenz Thomas

I recently bought one of the Koyo ones. Really nice quality but bear in mind they require the brackets from an original condenser to be swapped over to it.

It’s in the calendar

yes, as per other topic i did it and it works fine

Booked my Tickets

I was going to say strut brace as you hardly see the coilovers once it is fitted. The pipework looks great and shame about the vented headlight, but still winning overall mate. Keep up the great work!

Not yet no.

All of my Black Friday goodies arrived - There is more parts I just didn’t photo (ARP Headbolts, GTE Headgasket, Oil Pump, Timing Belt etc etc) 90% of the bits here now so the VVTI head has been sent off with V202-D Cams, KVS02-BT Springs & Retainers & GSC Stem Seals to set up the clearances etc. Soon be time to pull the engine…

Small update - Engine bay now painted.. This was supposed to be a quick engine and gearbox swap and job done, alas here we are.. Also - Santa delivered a few bits too!

After braving the storm this weekend, managed to pick up a few bits. Firstly R154 Gearbox, Clutch, Prop etc. Believe it's got the drift motion hydraulic release bearing kit so will prob leave that for now to match with the AP Racing twin clutch. Also managed to pick up a 4" ETS FMIC and a set of Black Recaros with Harnesses. Also Also got a few other goodies but will leave those for now until i know what i'm doing with the car further.

Haven't updated in a while.. Started off rubbing down a few of the misc bits to paint. Halfway through it really now Inbetween that managed to switch over the Auto Dial to Manual which was awesome Managed to pick up a FFIM with 90mm TB which looks to be of decent quality. Still brand new but unused. Then was a trip to London to pick up a bonnet.. It's in pretty good nick, just needs the washer jet holes cutting out and maybe some Aerocatches fitted The car then went off to @TheTurtleshead for a new lower rad support to be Welded in When the car came back i thought it would be a good idea to paint the engine bay so got onto scotching it all up and treating some of the rusty patches and put it into epoxy Sprayed the OEM 202 Black Then the clear went down nicely Untitled ‑ Made with FlexClip.mp4 Until it dried - and i had a bit of a disaster with it. After speaking with a couple of paint experts, we couldn't really work out what was happening, so i rubbed it back ready to shoot another layer of colour and clear again. And....... the same thing happened. We were finally able to conclude that the solvents in the clear were reacting with the solvents in the epoxy. With that being the case i thought the only way round it would be to completely strip it back and start again with different products. So here is where the car currently stands.. Luckily a local bodyshop has offered to spray it for me using their stuff if i prep it for them which is an offer i couldn't really refuse after spending around 30 hours getting it back to this point there's no way i'm risking it again. Hopefully will be painted by the end of the week then fingers crossed off to JJ for some welding on the sills and manual surround. Also off to pick some bits up for it this weekend so watch this space i guess

Stripdown continues.. not really sure why i'm going to all this effort, but great opportunity to learn some skills and some patience... Started by whipping the wings off.. by whipping i mean taking a few hours laying on the ground trying to figure out what i did to deserve rounded bolts and rust in my eyes. Then removed the rear bumper and crash bar.. lo and behold rear crash bar was ruined so had to cut it off (looking for one if anybody has one!) Then removed the parts behind the rear air inlet - anddddddd another hole After this thought i'd tackle a nice easy job of removing the 20+ year old window tint. Patience starting to dwindle here.. still haven't got it off - tried steam, heat and goo gone but no luck in shifting it. Gave up with that and did my first Modification (loose term) of a window de-wiper Then thought i'd strip more of the engine bay ready for a rubdown And finally starting to remove the rubbish alarm and immobiliser And thats about it at the moment.. next plans remove the bonnet harness fully, remove brake booster etc while i wait for parts to arrive

Aircon is now frosty cold. Just needed a regas. Jurgen sent me a speedo converter in the post but I'll have to get that fitted by a garage as I don't want to mess it up, plus I want paperwork stating the odometer reading when it changed from KM to miles. Jurgen has promised to call me on his return from holidays regarding the issues, and I'll update here as I get news...