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So the block has been prepared for the build by the team at SRD

New to the forum but I finally purchased my MK4 after all the years. Found my car on GMT. Formally had a 2020 Supra and owned it for a year. It just didn’t do it for me. Ended up selling it to someone who would appreciate it more and I’m happy the new owner is finishing what I started. After selling, I was on the verge of getting an R35 GTR. I think I would have been happy but not sure if I’d be fully fulfilled. And then my buddy sent me this old photo from 2009 of me sitting in a Supra from a Supra dyno meet in San Diego. And that brought back all the desire I had as a youngin. Started shopping for the MK4 and found this one. I was locked in immediately. Couldn’t be happier to know I got it, but now the wait for it to arrive at my door begins.

The viscous clutch fan system is the rolls Royce of fan cooling - water cooling the engine is done to regulate the head temp to a constant temp - no matter what load is applied - regulators - 1 the thermostat 2 the water pump - faster the engine the more flow 3 the fan - viscous fan alters with ambient temp regulating for hot or cold days - it also regulates for engine speed faster the engine the faster the fan - a superb regulator ! aluminium (heads ) do not like varying temps it creates stresses and constant temps give constant clearances . elect fans do not regulate for ambient air temp or engine speeds only for water temp variations - they also cycle on off which has a hysteresis and causes temp cycling - the complete opposite of the requirement . It is the budget option and will never get close to a viscous system which will outflow any electrical fans !!! that’s the tech answer - the only reason elec fans exist is that transverse engines have to have them and they are cheaper to manufacture and design . : cheap front engine transverse cars not for one of the best engines ever made !

Hey Guys, Thought it was time I had a little update to keep the build thread alive. Not had much use of the car towards the end of 2024 like most of you as the weather sucks and I’m not a fan of salty roads. We needed a better dog car after our pooch needed a leg amputated so I picked up quite an unusual estate that many may not have seen before. It’s a 2015 Honda Civic SR Tourer. 1.6 i-DTEC and 6-speed manual gearbox. Returns impressive MPG and is well spec’d with heater leather seats, infotainment system, button controlled active suspension etc. Been a great daily and I like the pearl white when it’s nice and clean as well. The purchase does mean I’ll have to hold off on my Dart engine build for now but I have a few plans I’m hoping to do in 2025 depending on what my budget allows. Currently thinking the following in order of priority: - wheel refurb and colour change on the lips. So I had that awful choice to make, go down a deep and nasty pothole or hit the white van man head on. Not really much choice and wham! Down it went with a sickening thump. Practically cried the whole way home from my folks as new it was bad. Looks like a flat spot on passenger front rim and tracking was out with a steering wheel judder which has improved a little following an alignment, but I’m pretty sure it needs repairing to fix the issue fully. Issue is the current rim colour is fairly unique to Works so if ai can get it fixed it will need painting. Plan is to switch the lighter bronze colour and match the darker copper colour I have on my half cage and pipework in the engine bay. I actually think it will tie in and work well so fingers crossed. - Next we have a visit to a detailing specialist for a full detail from top to bottom with a full underside treatment process. Had a friend get his done by them recently and the results were superb. Been on my to-do list for a while now and is money well spent to get the car looking great for shows etc. - Seats could use a re-trim in proper leather versus the pleather they have at the moment. When I had the seats out for the dash swap a gust of wind caught the drivers seat and it toppled over on the driveway. I wasn’t expecting any serious damage but to my surprise it put a tear in the back of the seat. I do have my eye on some different seats I absolutely love but budget will determine if I swap or just retrim the existing seats. TBD. I bought a fairly generic and cheap rear F1 style fog light for the Z-tune diffuser. Trouble is it’s really dim and pathetic to the point of being pointless really. I’ve spoken to a buddy called Pedro who I’ve known for a while and he has kindly offered to make me a bespoke replacement with some super bright LED’s which will be an exact fit for the gap in the diffuser. Think this will look a million times better so is a must for me. - Got a few more interior trim parts I’d like skinned in real carbon. Got a great guy who has done really good work for me in the past so I’ll be sending off those to get skinned and refitted as well. - Depending on budget I may look at changing out the U.K. brake setup for K-Sport’s again but on a smaller disc this time as the 356mm wouldn’t clear the wheels sadly. Given my power goals have changed and we are now thinking 1,500 is a fair target I would like some better stoppers to suit. There is a 330mm option which we think will work so might get a full set of those as well. Will have a service and check over with SRD as well obviously but that’s probably it for this year. Engine build as you can imagine isn’t going to be cheap and I will need to change up the turbo as well so need a windfall or a lottery win. More likely will need to save up and get it done when I can afford it. Watch this space and hopefully updates will start around March. All the best, Pete

Couldn't wait till the weekend to do the bonnet prop.. Got it polished up and then burnt the bends to get that nice gold/purple/blue colour. I must say, im pretty bloody happy with it. For such an insignificant component i think it now looks mega. Photos dont really do it much justice tbh.

A few pics from this year....

Hi I have been working away on my mr2 project and had planned to use the Aristo engine I had purchased. However a 3.4 bottem end came up for sale and purchased this instead. my plans changed to go and install this in my Is300( hence front sump fitted) but new house purchase so cash is a must so this and the is300 are up for sale. probably cost more than its worth in the rebuild let alone buying the engine originally. also have the following removed from the aristo. alternator power steering pump inlet manifold fuel rails/injectors Harness New rear sump few other bits and bobs No idea on costs? but ill put a price as £12,000. happy to take input on this. currently on a pallet.

Happy Trump Day guys The missus and I are taking the day off to celebrate his inauguration. I'm just hoping that he'll give Queer Harmer and our incumbent British-hating muppet government a slap or three. Have a good one, Andrew

Replacement Number Plate Lights/Bracket Decided I wanted to install a rear view camera and some LED number plate lights to freshen up the rear of the car a little. However, I didn't want to butcher the existing wiring harness and light mounting bracket. So I designed/printed a new one. The number plate lights are VAG units, I made a harness to convert those to Toyota plugs so it is literally plug and play. Those being smaller allowed me some real estate to install the camera. All fits up lovely to the factory holes. Due to the size of the 3D printer I own I had to print two seperate parts and pin them together. That said it seems to have worked pretty well and looks good. Will test/re-design accordingly when the cars on the road. Little things ...

I have also bought a used drivers side head light which this evening i have had in the oven to separate and then make into a 'headlight intake' I did try doing it without separating it initially but there's no way it would have come out to an acceptable standard as all the debris from cutting the back of the housing falls into the headlight. Tomorrow i need to find somewhere that sells 120mm OD pipe!

Boot Pop During the summer I also set about fitting a solenoid powered boot release activated by the alarm. Biggest issue was finding somewhere to mount the solenoid and how to 'pull' the lever. Used a similar setup to factory - effectively a bit of brake cable looped through the solenoid - worked a treat. Solenoid was bolted to the rear boot panel - all tested and a worked a treat. May fit a boot 'pop' to raise the boot slightly in the future. Excuse some of the temporary fittings in the pic, it is all crimped/soldered in place now ... After this I set about sorting the rear lights which had one failed fog light PCB fitted and a bunch of wires twisted together. Cut all of this out and replaced with a dioide which was soldered in. Also fitted a diode from the switch on the dash (which was illuminated) to stop the back current from the brake light illuminating the switch when the brake was applied.

Some bits arrived r35 coil packs ,and more bits on order - fuel cooler ,using a water /fuel heat exchanger and the chargecooler water circuit to cool , manual clutch pedal assy , and brake pedal , Haltech linear position sensor and a clutch emulator - to manual shift the zf . Started the paint compound correction this will take about 30 hours flatting and polishing panel by panel and then some fusso soft 99 hydrophobic coat and a final fusso mirror shine coat - it’s a lot of effort involved ! Going for a top show quality finish and it takes time and effort !!

looking good mate, can't beat titanium really stands out and suits engine bay

I approve of all the above mods I yo-yo with liking full stock body and lip,skirts and wing look. Keep up the good work.

Its been a minute so just figured I'd give this thread a bump. No progress as such, got a few plans in mind though. Still need to drop the gearbox and send it to Paul Cheshire.. just time and lots of money though especially as i want the billet centre casing. Billet rear diff casing is definitely a must so that will likely happen soon. Titanium bonnet prop recently purchased from Pete im looking forward to getting this polished and re burnt over the weekend. Head light intake, you know where people drill a huge hole through the head light.. i fancy giving that a go, but not on my brand new headlights lol.. need to find a good used one. Possibly a set of Blitz side skirts, carbon TRD bonnet and go back to the TRD wing, although im not 100% sure on that yet. Also.. underglow.. maybe.. dont shoot me. I've done the clean oem look for a couple of years now, i now have the itch for a bit of rice

Nice color

We drive the coolest cars you can buy for that kind of money, they're paid for, parked in a garage and getting more expensive by the day.

I wish you and your families all the best for the new year, good luck and lots of health

that engine bay looks fantastic, it's a shame it came with so much hassle but at least it's done right this time! well done

Thanks Pete. For someone like me who really gets a kick out of working on my own car, you can sometimes find yourself out of your comfort zone which is why having people like the SRD boys to pull a bit of knowledge from here and there is really important. I try not to message unless I really need to as they're not a charity helpline for wannabe tuners.

Fast forward to present time, we're back at it.... So, the 600whp satisfied longer than the 500whp (which I think was two weeks before I was back down to SRD.... ), but it's time to push for a bit more. After speaking with Mike and Lee, it was pretty evident to get more power I'll need a bigger turbo so I went with a Precision 6870. As I'm still on a stock engine I thought I'd throw an inlet in too and DBW. As the inlet was being added, it made sense to switch to a 5" ETS so all the pipework is made only the once (it'll go forged eventually and turned up some more). The biggest hurdle in doing the inlet this Christmas is carrying out the unknown while everyone is shut. I tried to factor all the parts I'd need before hand prior to starting, but like everything new, there's always a bunch of stuff you're not aware you'll need. We're not a million miles off now. ETS is on, pipework is 90% done. Just waiting on a friend to weld the ally Link boss onto the inlet for the IAT sensor. DBW peddle is modified to fit the MKIV. Five Guys and Supra bud James has almost finished relocating the battery. Injector loom is lengthened. If all goes well, the inlet should be bolted on tomorrow. The only thing holding the car up will be ordering a second expansion loom for the Link/DBW. I'd like to thank Lee, Mike and Ash for being on the end of the phone for help in making sense of some of the unknowns. Once the inlet is done, I'll start swapping the turbo....

I had originally planned to go with Harry SupraLED's front projectors and halo's so I could work around deleting the front indicators, but after installing it all, the headlights didn't fit very well around the wing. Harry was cool and offered to help as it was probably something silly I had done. As the deadline for a car show was approaching, I ended up calling Lee and sourcing some new facelift front lights and parked the UK glass lights for a bit. I'll more than likely end up sending the UK lights off to Harry to see if he can sort my error. To complete the back end, I opted for some Whifbitz carbon number plate garnishes. I've always liked them and they also make for a discreet place to hide a reversing camera. I also added the addition of a Whifbitz carbon TRD spoiler... A very tappable booty, indeed.... Some more additions while the car was being put back together. Sound deadening... While getting the rear diffuser to fit, it was also a good time to swap out the backbox to a ti..... With everything tacked in place, I sent it off to a friend to weld. Fast forwarding a bit.... MOT time:

Thought I'd give the thread some long overdue love. TBH, it's been a bit neglected purely through being so busy on the car in my spare time lol. So, after having the fuel system installed, I felt it really woke the car up and gave the single turbo experience I was expecting. The torque was there and the engine felt a lot more responsive. With the engine satisfying (to a degree) the craving for that kick in the arse when coming on boost, it was time to turn some attention to the body and focus on styling. I really liked the TwinZ kit and with blue being my favourite colour, I found the perfect variation while prepping a car at work for sale and knew the Supra had to painted in it. So, the strip down began.... I decided for a cleaner look, I'd delete the aerial and rear wiper. The panels are quite thin on the Supra so patience was key not to distort the panels with too much heat. I used an air blower to rapid cool the areas after each weld which helped. Overall, I was really impressed and relieved at how little rust this car has. I mean, the main reason I bought it all those years ago was due to how mint it was, but the chassis literally only had a small amount of rust at the very end of the seal which has only gone through a couple of skins of metal. It wasn't really necessary, but it was ground back and a small plate was welded in. I used POR-15 for all these areas to act as a rust preventer which was sanded and then primered over. Next step was to get out the careless door dings people inflict in car parks with the help of my pal. I thought I was pretty careful about where I park, but it goes to show, you can't be too careful! While the car was being attended to, the bodykit was prepped and primed. And, then finally, it was time to start getting some colour down... Lee @SRD hooked me up with new quarter windows, rubbers all round and, while the car was being worked on, I decided to swap out the HSD Monopro's for HKS Hipermax S. The poor old OEM diff oil cooler had seen better days and had been leaking slightly so, with them being discontinued, I found the closest size oil cooler and made it fit. The OEM bracket wasn't in the best shape either, but with a bit of fettling, it's doing it's job. I decided to epoxy the cooler to the original housing as it was the logical choice. The OEM window rubber bolts were pretty seized so things got real lol.... While the car was being painted and put back together it was time to decide on a colour for the wheels. With the new Toyota badges and facelift front lights, I wanted something that would lean towards tying in with the grey Toyota subtly used for these. Between a few of us at work, we decided Porsche Platinum would work.

Update inbound...

Well after some more test fitting last weekend decided to cut dizzy plate so could get manifold, turbo and Wastegate all fitted so can then look at downpipe and intercooler pipe options, plus new screamer aswell. I have also now got new trigger kit from Golebys Parts recommended by Mike from SRD, to fit once have everything else done and can take car to set up and re-mapped and finally remove dizzy, keeping dizzy at moment so can start and run car to check no leaks or issues once have everything in place as also still waiting for Koyo rad that ordered end of November. Here are the pictures from today now to source downpipe if anyone has any recommendations that be great help

new batch arrived.... 6 left in stock if needed

Nice! Keep the updates flowing please Brad. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out obviously as I’ll hopefully be following suit as and when I can afford it. In the best hands though as I’m sure Ash and the team will build you an amazing engine.

They just don’t focus light in projector lens set ups or light assemblies not designed for led . The LS 600 has LED headlights and they are great - but they are motorised in an array and each headlight cost £5000 . in fog lights they cause more vision problems than they improve !

Paint …… when factory paints cars they use an automatic spray system - this uses electrostatic charged clearcoat - it is very thin and saves material cost . All clearcoats have an element of unevenness and during drying have orange peel . Manufactures grade this ,cheap cars =more orange peel . High end cars wet sand . repainting cars always have a thicker clearcoat applied -due spray gun pressure . Once dry clearcoat can also have dust ,hairs , and pin holes . so it’s wet sanded and inspected by eye , every square inch of it . the first sand show any high spots or the worse areas of peel or pinholes , moving light source to check all angles . You work your way down the grades of pads in 4 stages - 2000 down to 8000 grit - the early stages you see the clearcoat coming off as a creamy white colour . You can also feel the finish with your fingers and you use fresh towels from a sealed bag - so spotless clean - any dust will cause a swirl . Then another 4 stages of cutting and polishing using different grade compounds - any pinholes need touching in with clear and repeat the process . best left to someone who has years doing this !! Only once all completed can you apply the wax coat ,first the hydroscopic coat -only one coat ,then apply the finish wax coats - these you can layer up - hence the large number of hours needed A pic of the rear side panels , the rear is about 2 inches wider than stock - but you can barely tell - you would have to put it side by side with a stock car to see it which is exactly as I wanted it - a wide body that doesn’t look wide body - does that make sense ? At least another week of paint polishing left - over 80 hours total !!!!!! there is no such thing as a quick respray ,dark cars show everything!!!!!

I'm nitpicking a bit, but personally don't think you can beat the OEM viscous/shroud design for efficiency and reliability.

I'm less "still here", more "hoping to be back". My F82 M4 is fantastic as a road/daily car but it leaves me cold Vs the Supra which is always an event. I do still love the M4 for what it is, but beware giving up any good, fast, clean Supra for an F8x M car - you may live to regret that decision. Surely the Supra is worth more, too?

Once you leave a car off the road , you tend to make it into a mountain of a job rather than a small hill - the longer you leave it the worse it seems . BUT the reality is that is is not as bad as you imagine ! In my case I have made it way more complex : over the years things have moved on ….”small” turbos now make big horsepower and boost at crazy turbo speeds . 8 speed gearboxes !!! Active AI speed controlled suspension! we all know the base engine is a fantastic design - 3x factory power ratings increase is possible and done often - part of what I’m trying out is to get some data : what happens if you add a second intercooler (chargecooler ) , at what point does the head hit temp issues , what is the effect of fuel cooling . Water meth injection to the intake ports what effect and what limits . Can you improve head water flow and how does this affect head stress /temp . can you increase power without oil temp increases , how far can you push pump fuel octane … there is always a mechanical limit engine bottom end and such - hence the engine was rebuilt with rods /bolts/bearing /pistons and so on and is all new to allow me to push it a bit and not run into wear items like piston rings worn or such so I have taken 3 months off work to put it all together and see what happens …….. once you start it’s far easier than the mountain you thought you had to climb …step by step . Starter ,alternator ,blowers ,windows wipers steering ,and most everything else still worked as if it was parked yesterday ! In your head they could all be knackered but NO ,probably all better than if you had driven it for 10 years ,not one stuck relay -the only thing so far was one brake light bulb holder corroded !

Thanks @Peter P appreciate it. Lots to do but I'm just happy to be making some progress right now ! Heres to driving her around when the weather gets a bit better ...

Yesterday i began stripping a few bits off the car. I like my engine bay but i dont love it and I cant quite put my finger on what it is that i dont like. Certainly some of the red accents (which weren't intentional) i will be changing, so I've bought some black silicone end caps to cover the top mounts, the oil filler cap will be either painted black or polished, the red battery wires will be wrapped in black tape and my whifbitz anti roll bar will also be painted black.. so that should get rid of all the red! I've also got rid of the gold heat reflective tape off the strut tower and im in the process of removing the lower boost pipe that comes off the bottom of the turbo because thats also going to go black. I have removed the intake pipe and strut brace and will also remove the intake manifold boost pipe and will be send them off to have re made in titanium. Some of the purple accents im going to replace with polished parts instead, like the pulleys and radiator brackets. Hopefully this will tone the colours down a little bit and tie everything in better.

Rear Bumper Fitting After many months I also wanted to get the new rear bumper fitted. The first one I bought was too difficult to repair (the holes cut for the parking sensors were effectively 'welded' but they were on the lower part of the bumper which has a weird contour which I just couldn't get right (annoying as I spent a lot of time trying but I just had to admit defeat) I bit the bullet and bought a better quality rear bumper which I stripped and primed for now until it can see a proper paint job. I also had to fit a new fuel tank protector, no pics of this but it was epoxied and raptored to protect it and installed with nice new stainless fittings. Also all new hardware to mount the bumper to the car. Awaiting a cover for Australia to cover up the hole for the JDM plate too. Nice to see some progress finally.

Preseving What's Left ... I realised it has been some time since I updated this. Work and other family stuff took over so whilst I have been working on things it's been a lot slower than I'd have liked. One of the big issues was finding someone to fix the damage to the rear quarter which I'm happy to say is lined up for later this year. In the meantime I went about stripping and epoxying the area just to preserve what was left.

It’s coming to me from Australia. Was hoping to find the previous owner. But here’s a mod list. It has I think 117k miles. 1995 Toyota Supra Rz, V160 gearbox, 2jz-gte, Key Features: - BO3B Diff - Run by a haltech elite 2500 - Precision 62/62 Gen 2 turbo (14 pound),Less than 1000kms on it - Turbo smart 50mm wastegate - 6 boost manifold - 800cc Sard injectors - Custom 3 1/2 inch exhaust from turbo back, with a Varex muffler with butterfly valve - Mishimoto radiator and dual electrical fans. - HDI front mount intercooler - Greddy boost controller. (Currently not in use) - Series 2 leather front seats - All dash pieces in tact and some extremely rare. - Rare veilside speedo. - LED converted cluster and AC controls. - Clarion touch screen double DIN head unit. Clarion 6inch speakers up front and pioneer 6inch rear speakers. Advan RS-D wheels braided brake lines - Genuine Ridox front bar - Ridox style side skirts

She's stunning, hopefully you don't have to wait too long for her to arrive

Yeah I'd need it posting please. Pm me your bank details and I'll pm my address

Back to update build thread and show the forum some love again.

Still around. Still have my Supra, albeit it barely gets used (I think I’ve managed 500 miles in the last 4 years). I’ll likely be looking to move on in the new year, with a Porsche GT4 or an F80 M3 most likely.

Some other uninteresting things to note... the original 30 year old Laserline bit the bullet so I went with a new replacement Laserline as 30 years is a pretty good testament to the brand. As the dash was starting to show signs of it's age, I thought I'd give it a makeover by wrapping it in some leftover material I had. This along with SRD/JP Works TRD dials and a Renown wheel, the car has a nice, clean and updated look and feel.

Yes, I bought it and it came with the Gasket, its been good since i fitted it shortly after the post above

A bit more done - pulled out the spark plugs and put some marvel mystery oil down the holes - left it for 2 days and some in the top end . Hand cranked the engine and it was smooth as silk . Then spun engine on the starter - again perfect . Compression check - mint . Back flushed the heater core and it was super clean , put some rad cleaner and hot water in and flushed it - again clean as a whistle . So looked at the fuel system - removed fuel pump hangar and drained the tank - fuel was a yellow colour (around 4 liters) but the tank was like new inside ,no debris or rust - perfect new plugs ordered and fitting a bigger new pump - I removed the air con rad - knackered - so now have room for the chargecooler rad - they are different from normal hot water rads as they deal with much lower temps . and the header tank can go in the boot now . The tank has a large filler to allow ice to be used . I am fitting a gauge to look at pre and post chargecooler temps in the A pillar (more wiring) , the pre cooler temp will also be the post fmic temp . Just to see what happens with cooler running .

Hola hermano just watched the cbs youtube video car is looking amazing man congrats

I have also stripped the original fuel tank straps and re painted them. replacements are pretty expensive for a couple of strips of metal. Miner only had surface rust so scrubbed up pretty well. I then received a mesage from the powdercoaters telling me my parts are ready so i have been to collect those. So now these are back i can start poly bushing everything. thats as far as ive got at the min but progress is progress.

No idea. XRP is being pumped a lot by media hype to be fair. Plus Ripple boss just hooked up with Trump. Expect some more growth on it before its stable.

Final layer of protection is now on. Raptor paint is complete.