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The car performed brilliantly on the track day. No issues at all during the day aside from a slightly loose water hose. The w58 is still going too I did around 35 laps of Bedford GT circuit, which for those that aren’t familiar with it is a long and high speed track. It’s around 4.5 miles per lap. The brakes were incredible, I never found the limit on them. No fade and no loss of pedal even when abusing them. I put a lot of that down to the race fluid and pads. Supratronix non oem front brake calipers held up just as well as stock. Very impressed for such a low price! I did find some issues: - The ARB’s need to be uprated. - The w58 is not well suited to the TT power delivery, I was constantly dropping off the 2nd turbo in lower speed corners. I’m impressed it didn’t lose any gears though! Kev also came along for some passenger rides, which he seemed to enjoy

Track day at Bedford GT circuit on Monday so I’m getting the car prepared. 1) First job was to get the car on a 4 poster lift and get all the suspension and subframe bolts torqued down. I used a local garage for this for a very reasonable cost. The guy that runs it used to prep rally cars and did a very thorough job. I also had the diff oil changed. 75/145 LSD oil since it’s a plated diff, no additional additive. The old oil came out like new and no filings in the sump plug, not bad since it’s been in there for 15 years 2) The brake pads from daily ones to Porterfield R4 race ones. They need bedding in so I’ll do that either late at night or early morning. 3) The oem drivers seat had an issue where it shifted forward slightly under hard braking. I’ve replaced this with a Recaro one and Recaro seat frame from a forum member. It was inexpensive and is extremely comfortable! I don’t know how I’ve put up with stock seats for so many years. Game changer! 4) The exhaust is also changed over to an oem one. It now has a UK spec 1st and 2nd cat and a genuine UK spec rear section. It’s quiet as hell and I hate it. Good for the strict noise limits at Bedford though. Once again, huge thanks to @evinX for helping getting this thing fitted. It’s a lot longer process than first appears. Only down side is I can now hear there is an exhaust gasket leak on either the manifold or between the manifold and turbo. That would explain the poor idle and turbo whistle. No chance to fix this before the track day so I’ll take my chances. Either way it looks like the exhaust side is coming off…. I’m not entirely sure if it’s going to go back on. All the UK stock stuff. I was going to decat as I have the pipes, but no point while it’s stock boost: Sounds crap: Recaro driver seat, very comfy! I think this is the larger person version so no lower side bolsters. Massive improvement over stock and for not much money: Race pads. These are nearly £500 new, luckily a member was selling a brand new set for a fraction of that.

Congratulations.....You have made it, I am very happy for your success

Final layer of protection is now on. Raptor paint is complete.

On ramps today for inspection - looked at every nook and cranny - basically zero rust - dusty for sure ! All the factory under seal is good . I noted that Toyota dont under seal the whole bottom ,or maybe it’s just Jspec cars ? There is a line just 3 inch inside the sill join where factory under seal stops , I took off the exhaust heat shields as they don’t do anything with my exhaust fitted . Again under these no under seal , boot floor and into wheel arches same . I have zero rust in any of these areas but tomorrow I will mask up and spray a coat of Raptor 2k under seal . I’m not doing the whole car as it kinda looks like you are hiding something . The front under radiator x member was mint not a rust mark - understatement to say I was happy ! While underneath I fabricated a brace for the rear bumper and edged the lip with a door seal rubber - it now joins with the tank cover perfectly has no gap and an amount of give to stop cracking . The side sills also have a gap to the floor of about 2 inches - looks shit ! So I will fabricate a joiner to blend to the floor nicely - so happy no restoration needed underneath - dry storage for the win !

Thats all of the seam sealing work complete. Now justvfor a new layer of primer and on with the Raptor Paint.

@Iky is your man he drove down in his supra to get one of me

Sills were from Toyota ,inner and outer , there were only two inners left according to Toyota ! This led to getting the whole car being checked all over for rust …and a bare metal respray with all the correct undercoating - no rust found but now committed! So all stripped glass out job and correct anti rust primer (non porous coat )

Battery relocation : If relocating the battery to the boot area ,you should also extend the sense cable : The alternator uses a sense (S) wire ,this wire comes from the alternator to the bottom of the fuse block and joins where the main alternator output connects . This is about 1 foot from the battery . As the name implies the sense cable “senses” the voltage close to the battery and it is used to control the voltage regulator in the alternator . The heavy duty cable from alternator to fuse block (near battery ) carries all the charge current and any voltage drop on this cable is sensed and the regulator increases the output , ie if the alternator put out 14volts at the alternator and this dropped to 13.9 at the fuse block (battery) the regulator senses this and ups it’s output back to 14 v . If you move the battery to the boot and add 3 meters of heavy duty cable and add any connections (each can drop volts) , the sense cable cannot sense this ….so you should also extend the sense wire with the new heavy duty cable to the rear as close as possible to the battery . Now any extra voltage drop due to the long heavy duty cable is again sensed and compensated for .

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7201036?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_ePMax_Prio2-_--_-7201036&matchtype=&&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkeWNPPaitgloVr40Tn5O_YTRmJD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwY2f7MLHiQMV2JtQBh2cFTEgEAQYBCABEgL36PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds this is the 12 pin female connector for the column side of the clockspring - some clock springs have 16 pin or 10 pin . So you have to cut off the original and put the pins in here plus the new cables along the column . The other side (steering wheel side ) is the same connector but the orientation sliders are opposite , so cut them off with a blade and add however many wires you need - flappy paddles audio cruise etc - pic is the plug you need for the head unit - cut off the connector and use two of the wires , connect to the two audio wires from steering wheel controls

The stock clockspring is limited , depending on what you want to add or lose . If you can lose the airbag then the 2 wires can be used for audio control - the loom runs down to the console by the hand brake - audio control only needs 2 wires - splice in a 3.5 jack plug and it goes into the head unit . If you want more , flappy paddles etc then you need a later clockspring with 12 pins plus 4 airbag pins - you need to get an out put connector and add wires along the column ( or a column loom from a breaker with a 12 pin connnector . And you need the wheel side connector 12 pin . Supra is a single shot airbag and later Toyotas are a twin shot airbag - you can just use a single shot or fire both

Steering wheel arrived , I have to mod the clock spring to allow all the buttons to work and fit the cruise lever and a bit of wiring to the column loom . But the new wheel will match all the interior panels . Should really add a supra transfer decal in place of the GR ! Still waiting on parts to arrive , new arch liners ,ARBs and all sorts ,so tomorrow some wiring install and fit mirrors

Hmm I got one around 2 years ago but sent it back because the top section was quite short but at least it's not just me then.

While the car is in this position I'm going to refresh all of the brake lines and fuel lines. Hopefully once the car is built I'm going to be running around 650 to 700hp so I need to future proof all of this in advance. So with regards to the fuel lines what size should I look at running. Would standard size lines be sufficient or should I upgrade them to run a -8an feed and a -6return?

You could replace the sensor , the Ecu has an internal fixed resistor and this is paired with the external resistance of a thermistor - sensor , this produces a voltage that equals the temp , very small voltage like 0.1 to 4 volts that equal the temp . It is non linear resistance ,I sure the numbers are in the manual . Quite a wide tolerance is considered serviceable . Fast reactance is considered to be below 0.5 seconds - don’t know what the stock sensor is , but sensors are available in a few ranges of resistance and seldom will be unique . Some are chip based now and tiny . I guess a durable one needed that matches the curve will work fine .

Probably only if the voltage response curve is the same...

I can see it maybe snipping a new ATH I highly doubt it'll run off again, any time soon. This has just happened with BTC's last move. Dominance just tipped over 60% of the entire market cap of crypto so BTC is pretty high and mighty just now. I'm going to start moving out of BTC into ETH and then probably some alts next year.

I'd like to pick one up soon and was wondering if it's possible to fit in the back with the seats down? Maybe someone has an OEM box and would be kind enough to drop the dims below?

Last layer of primer before the Raptor paint goes on.

Lovely car, good luck

The engine bay looking very sad ! Covered in dust ! Huge clean up required and some bling added . Looking at other bays put me to shame . You can just see an extra charge cooler I fitted going into the throttle intake behind the rad . I have not seen this done before , but twin cooling ,fmic then charge cooler . I tested this and it does work . IAT much more stable and allows higher boost .

Ah yes you could do that, I assume you're adding a LSD core as well to the Lexus diff?

Doing a great job on the car. Kudos for doing it all yourself. Enjoying the updates.

Just a little maybe. I'm 5'10" If you're a 6+ footer you may be uncomfortable.

Turns out I got some when I blindly ordered lots of stuff for the front end recently! Yam6 limited is who I used.

Thanks for the pic, I wasn't sure if that oil level light was normal... I've been having issues with the alternator/charging/cluster for so long I don't know what's normal anymore lol

No idea about the box but a windscreen with the shrink wrap/foam edging on it did fit in the back fine with seats down. Plenty of space. I used an old duvet to cushion it.

I 'only' had the x2 Astrazeneca ones, those that were withdrawn here eventually and banned in Denmark quite quickly (just looked this up and they banned it completely a week before the first of my two jabs!) The reason was rare blood clots, one definite known death in Denmark. On the run up to the booster time around Christmas, my wife had it a few months before, then got covid again and was wiped out and in bed (rare for her) for a couple of days, I didn't get it and so anecdotally thought the booster wasn't worth it, and it was all the MRNA only ones by then. I don't know what to think of much these days but I won't be having more booster shots at present, it's an interesting topic now the dust and emotions have settled, I would say that there are a number of people such as the guy above that seemingly have little ulterior motives, just have an interest and find it incredulous that officialdom doesn't. Saying that, walking the dogs, tinkering with the cars, staying in the real world bubble and enjoying the company of friends and family seems more valuable and healthy for day to day.

The rear 1/4 panels were widened by an inch each side - this took a lot of blending and a lot of work ! To match the trial rear and be seem less - not recommended! The engine was swapped out just before going in to the shop - forged engine fresh rebuild with boostlogic manifold and 67dbb turbo - boost logic box fitted with upgraded clutch packs and billet 2nd sprag -fresh built .original do luck front fitted well and ridox sills - then into colour

Then I had a hole in the sill on one side - small but there …this led to the Bodyshop ……brand new inner and outer sills fitted ..

Here you go

Lovely looking BMW

Hey All, Im not sure this is the right section to post this but here goes. I havnt posted on here for a long while as ive up to the eyeballs in work. The time came a few months ago to rebuild my supra that i had stripped to refurbish. One of my biggest bug bears was that i wanted new ball joints in the suspension arms but i didnt want to pay for a new arm especially when i was fully polybushing the car. So after alot of research and development. I finally managed to do it. With not just one arm. But so far 3 of the arms. Upper front Lower front Upper rear All these arms i can now convert to take a replaceable ball joint. Which also means the arm doesnt need to be removed off the car for it to be replaced! There are some vidoes of the balljoints in action on my facebook and instagram page. 'Unrivalled_supras'. 20210411_135258.mp4

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