Crankshaft Front Oil Seal 2jzgte

Crankshaft Front Oil Seal, is they always put pieces on the 2jzgte engines, because I reused it from my old oil pump, and now there is oil on the oil pan. by replacing anything it, is there some thing I can do before installation so it does not leak back, or should it just be pushed in on the crankshaft?

a little hard to understand but yes you just push it in, i had that replaced on mine when clutch was fitted

no it's not it. it is the one who sits at the oil pump on the crank on the front of the engine, not the back:)

oh sorry mate no never had that done but give it a while one of the lads will know

Just make sure you don't push it all the way in. It needs to be pushed on until the front is just flush with the oil pump body - no further otherwise you'll block the relief passage.

ok. is the original one buys at toyota good enough. what i can read i some off the treads is at it gonna leak after three months. is that korrekt or is the originale fine. and what do you mean with the last you road (no further otherwise you'll block the relief passage.

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My original one's been fine for 130,000 miles and is 16 yrs old !

If the crankshaft is worn where the seal rides it's a matter of luck if even a new seal leaks. They are a source of great aggravation on these engines, and a worn pump won't help I am afraid, best to renew oil pumps when a rebuild is carried out. Stock Toyota seal is fine.

i have push it all the way in,and when I had to pick it out it went to pieces, so I have ordered a new one

I have another question. oil pump is a mark, one for when you have to mount timing belt, and then there is the one on the actual shaft in oil pump, it is very important that the two brands next to each other or?

No, the oil pump can be pushed onto the end of the crank in any position on the crank splines, it doesn't need "timing". I *THINK* that is what you are asking?

maybe here is a pic

Thumbnail no workeee, invalid attachment?

try now

Works now, that mark has no relevance to how it lines up with the crankshaft splines, ignore it.

ok. thanks a lot.

another question: the new crankshaft oil seal. now long should i push it down. tlincens writes this: Just make sure you don't push it all the way in. It needs to be pushed on until the front is just flush with the oil pump body? but where is that? in the pic there is a red line and black line, which one should I use? the red or black?

The one that's furthest forward. (I can't tell from your pic, which is which!)

Imagine if you pushed the seal on with a flat piece of metal that was bigger than the boss on the oil pump, where the flat piece of metal would touch the pump is where it should sit flush to.

maybe here is a pic

That seal is pushed way too far in and will badly obstruct the oil drain aperture, which is why your seal is leaking, coupled with the fact that its a used seal.

Your other pic of the crank where the seal lip sits look a little worn, but if its not sever it can be rectified with VERY careful use of some fine emery or wet n dry.

The problem with the Supra pumps is lack of drain area, if the pump is at all worm oil will escape the rotor faces and need to drain back to the sump. The tiny hole only allows a certain volume of oil to flow per second before pressure rises and the oil seal is subject to pressure, which it's not really designed to counter. It then leaks... A worn bearing surafce where the seal lip sits on the nose of the crank exacerbates things further. As a guide, see the photos I took years ago, below. The three drain holes in the race Skyline engine pump allow a LOT more oil flow from the faces of the rotors than the tiny Supra single hole. The design of the Supra pump precludes opening this hole up much at all, hence pump, seal and crank nose must all be 100% to stop any issues. Oil dilution by over fuelling in badly mapped, or"on the way to the rolling road" modified engines running mad rich can cause pump internal wear in very short order. Internal wear = leakage, which the drain hole is incapable of accommodating.

That seal is pushed way too far in and will badly obstruct the oil drain aperture, which is why your seal is leaking, coupled with the fact that its a used seal.

 

Your other pic of the crank where the seal lip sits look a little worn, but if its not sever it can be rectified with VERY careful use of some fine emery or wet n dry.

what do you mean with the last you wrote? can you take the pic and put a circle around the area you're talking about? it's a little easier for me to understand what you taking about

The problem with the Supra pumps is lack of drain area, if the pump is at all worm oil will escape the rotor faces and need to drain back to the sump. The tiny hole only allows a certain volume of oil to flow per second before pressure rises and the oil seal is subject to pressure, which it's not really designed to counter. It then leaks... A worn bearing surafce where the seal lip sits on the nose of the crank exacerbates things further. As a guide, see the photos I took years ago, below. The three drain holes in the race Skyline engine pump allow a LOT more oil flow from the faces of the rotors than the tiny Supra single hole. The design of the Supra pump precludes opening this hole up much at all, hence pump, seal and crank nose must all be 100% to stop any issues. Oil dilution by over fuelling in badly mapped, or"on the way to the rolling road" modified engines running mad rich can cause pump internal wear in very short order. Internal wear = leakage, which the drain hole is incapable of accommodating.

year i can see what you mean, toyota could learn a little from nissan

so I got my crankshaft seal replaced. so now i kep the oil inside . so that is great. but what is the std oil pressure. when the car is cold, I have around 8.5 bar and hot around 1 to 1.2 bar

is that normal ?

1.2 bar seems a little low, but not enough to worry about if pretty hot, and 8.5 cold start is OK if a little high, what grade of oil are you using?

i am using 10w40 oil. semisyntitec. because I run with an engine which has received a main renovation , so i got that oil recommended for Running the engine the first 2000 km, before i get som kvali oil..

the oil is about 95 degrees at that point.. and 1.5 bar at 90 degress oil temp

My average oil pressure when cold using 10W 40 oil was around 80-120psi cold start (dependant on ambient temps) and 20-28PSI hot idle.