Cleaning your pride and joy

This follows on from my “cleaning the car” thread a year ago: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=70936

It has been nearly a month since the car had a good spit and polish as I was in the Maldives for a few weeks and the weather has been terrible since I returned.

Equipment:

1* Meguiar's 1908ml NXT car wash

1* Meguiar's 532 ml NXT Tech Wax

1* Meguiar's ultra plush Gold Wash mitt

1* Meguiar's 710 ml NXT Glass cleaner

1* Meguiar's 710ml NXT Speed Detailer

2* Meguiar's Gold applicator pads

1* Meguiar's purple/green applicator pad

1* Meguiar's 207ml Scratch X

1* Meguiar's 800grams of polishing cloth

3* Meguiar's terry cloths

2* Meguiar's microfibre cloths

1* Meguiar's (2* Bars) Clay detailing system (Clay Bar)

1* Meguiar's 473ml Deep Crystal 1 Paint Cleaner (or equiv)

1* Meguiar’s 473ml Deep Crystal 2 Polish care (or equiv)

1* Meguiar’s 473ml Deep Crystal 3 Carnauba Wax (or NXT Tech wax or NXT Spray wax or equiv)

1* Meguiar’s 142g NXT All Metal Polish

1)THE WASH

if you have buckets (hosepipe ban?) go to 1a, if you are using a jetwash, head to 1b

1a) BUCKET METHOD:

Firstly, get 2 buckets.

Fill one with cold water and wet the car (repeat as required) this will always be your clean bucket which you will then fill will your shampoo solution. Once the car is wet enough, continue.

Add your shampoo to one bucket and then fill them both with warm (not hot) water. We'll call one the shampoo bucket and one the dirty bucket...

While your shampoo bucket is filling up, use your hand to create as much foam as possible. Ideally you would use a foamer on your jetwash or hose (for those not in a hosepipe ban area).

Use the mitt to wash your car, the mitt should be placed into the shampoo bucket, the surface of the car cleaned and then placed in the dirty bucket to rinse off any dirt particles before being placed back into the shampoo bucket. Repeat this on each panel until clean.

While cleaning the car, use straight line hand motions. For the roof, bonnet and flat tailgate area use horizontal motions, for the panels, doors and bumpers use a vertical (up and down) motion. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down.

The reason for this is that you can never prevent adding tiny scratches and blemishes to pain while you wash. Washing can be abrasive and we don't want to make the car look bad. Scratches and swirl marks are visible more when circular because instead of the light having to hit it at a certain angle to be visible, being a circle, the light source can be anywhere for it to be visible. This should not be required when it comes to waxing unless you were lazy with the shampooing.

1b) JETWASH METHOD:

Sorry...if you were hoping to escape using buckets then I am afraid you were mistaken. Whilst a jetwash is good for removing loose surface matter, you can’t really clean a car with one.

Firstly, add the shampoo to your bucket. Starting with low pressure and building up (to prevent a spray of shampoo in the face) fire your jetwash into the bucket. This will create a good almost 100% foam lather.

Do the same with another bucket WITHOUT the shampoo.

Wet the car thoroughly with the jetwash and use the lance to remove any bird crap/large loose objects on the paintwork. We will then continue as if we had no jetwash (although you can smile when it comes to rinsing J

Use the mitt to wash your car, the mitt should be placed into the shampoo bucket, the surface of the car cleaned and then placed in the dirty bucket to rinse off any dirt particles before being placed back into the shampoo bucket. Repeat this on each panel until clean.

While cleaning the car, use straight line hand motions. For the roof, bonnet and flat tailgate area use horizontal motions, for the panels, doors and bumpers use a vertical (up and down) motion. Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way down.

The reason for this is that you can never prevent adding tiny scratches and blemishes to pain while you wash. Washing can be abrasive and we don't want to make the car look bad. Scratches and swirl marks are visible more when circular because instead of the light having to hit it at a certain angle to be visible, being a circle, the light source can be anywhere for it to be visible. This should not be required when it comes to waxing unless you were lazy with the shampooing.

1c) RINSE AND REPEAT:

Sadly, I am not the best at washing the car, if I stopped now then tomorrow morning I would notice big patches I missed. I am aware of this and so...... I do it again! Exactly the same as above.

2)Dealing with paint defects/bird crap/swirl marks

2a) Scratch removal

To remove the etching and scratches, apply a blob of ScratchX onto a clean applicator. You want to work in small circles over the area of the damage, using a firm amount of pressure. The abrasives in ScratchX break down to a fine powder very quickly, so you will have to repeat the ScratchX stage 4 or 5 times if not more. This product promises NEVER to add more scratches when it removes and in my experience that is correct so get your elbow going and really give it some hassle.

2b)Look ma, I got clay

You can argue this if you like; I tend to clay before I clean. My argument is that I remove the surface contaminants and then clean the paint beneath them. Others say to do it the other way around, (if you are removing birdlime or scratches then please use the paint cleaner FIRST) find what works for you. Paint attracts pollution, tree sap and other contaminants which can adhere to the paint work and 'soak'. Clay coupled with a lubricant (speed detail spray) (don’t bother with the details spray. It’s expensive and as it is only a lubricant then I use my shampoo bucket. It works wonders and is cheap as chips.....)removes these imperfections and smoothes your paint for a mirror finish and that wet look you see in shows.

Mould the clay to form a flat surface, using detail spray (see above) to lubricate, wipe the clay over the panel, you should feel the difference using the back of your hand. If it still feels uneven then keep going. Make sure you keep the clay lubricated. Wipe dry with a terry/microfibre cloth. Do not allow the clay or solution to dry naturally on the car.

2c) Clean the paint

To continue to remove any paint contaminants apply a blob of the Deep Crystal 1 paint cleaner to an applicator pad and firmly work it into your paint where damage has occurred. Deep Crystal 1 is a chemical paint cleaner, and the chemicals in it will gently and safely remove any further contaminant. I will also lessen the extent of any scratches. After two or three applications of the Deep Crystal 1 to the damage, remove any excess while it is still wet using a microfibre or terry towel.

(Also see the claying section)

3)Polish

Apply a small amount onto one of the applicator pads and work into the paint using small circular motions. You should find that this (and the waxing) is where your preparation pays off ten-fold. This will be so easy to apply AND remove that it is as simple as washing the car.

Wipe dry with a terry cloth or microfibre. This (coupled with the clay) will create that “wet look” on flat colour cars. Mine is silver which is easy to get looking OK but much harder to get looking amazing (more on this later).

4)Wax

Wax:

Wax the car using an applicator pad to apply and a terry cloth to remove (no need for microfibre yet).

Before removing the wax though read the next bit:

Trim:

Apply your trim detailing products while wax is still on the panel surrounded by the trim. The reason for this is that you have just washed, cleaned and now waxed the car, do you want overspray, drips etc on your paint? No, so do it now and that way, if you do overrun then it comes off with the wax. I tend to do my windows at this point as well. It’s a personal choice though.

End Wax:

Now remove the wax using a terry cloth.

2-3 coats of wax are a good base, if you have never waxed your car then you should add a layer of wax every 12-24 hours to form a good base. This will also help to smooth any imperfections and make waxing a 30min job instead of a 3 hour job.

5)Shoes (wheels and tyres)

Wheels and tyres:

As you would any other wheel cleaner, spray on the hot rims product (safe for chrome and polished rims), work it in (I use a sponge and not my mitt) and then hose off. If you are in the hosepipe ban areas then use your dirty bucket but rinse it first or use a third bucket if you have one. DO NOT contaminate your clean/shampoo bucket. You should not use the shampoo bucket for any other purpose.

I have the standard facelift alloys and they do get pock-marked and dirty pretty regularly so every now and again I use the Meguiars all metal polish on them. Its anti-corrosive agents protect against degradation of the metalwork (those with blinged engines take note J )

Using the Meguiars tyre spray, simply spray it on and leave it. Job Done.

It lasts for weeks as well, not days.

-------------------------------END

The pic - sorry the light is low in front of the house now and my house in Berks has no drive. I'll try to take a pic at the other house later.

NB: these instructions are based on the meguiars range. I have found it to be the best and longest-lasting. By all means use other products if you think they suit you more. I have about 3-4 ranges which I have used to find the right one. The only thing I would STRESS is to avoid mixing manufacturers. It may seem silly but there are all sorts of chemicals in some car care products. When mixed, they could give of unpleasant fumes or skin irritants.

My car is silver......yeah yeah common I know! Silver metallic finishes are well known for looking good when dirty so you can get away with cleaning them less often if you want to. The problem is that it will never look as good as a flat colour (like my black supra). However I am sure you will agree that it looks pretty good for a silver car. Unfortunately the camera battery died so I am just charging it and hopefully I can get a few more shots before the light fades too much.

If you have a flat (black, red, blue, and green) supra, this method will make your car look AMAZING. And all within a few hours. (I followed this EXACT method today and completed it, treated my leather seats, cleaned the cockpit and fitted a stubby aerial in 4 hours).

Happy to answer any/all questions related to this but I should point out. I detail my cars a lot, I haven’t gone down to that level here as I don’t think it’s called for. What this doesn’t mean is that I am an expert. I have researched the ranges (poorboys, turtle, sonax etc etc) and the 2 reasons I rate the Meguiars highest is that it is as good as any other (poorboys I would rate 2nd) but I can pop into halfrauds if I run out of anything.

Lewis

good info there,iv got most of that stuff,still havnt got round to cleaning it yet

How the hell do you do all that in 4 hours

I think I must be either a) too lazy or b) waaay too slow

Damn good information by the way, I'd heard of the 2 bucket method but it always helps with a good explanation.

Your car look v nice as well

How the hell do you do all that in 4 hours

 

I think I must be either a) too lazy or b) waaay too slow

 

Damn good information by the way, I'd heard of the 2 bucket method but it always helps with a good explanation.

 

Your car look v nice as well

All of the above.

Great thread Lewis. Learn't loads, thanks. Even low light your silver looks about ten times better than mine.

Thanks Andy,

Jive, it never used to take me that, more like double but after you have done it a few times you REALLY speed up.

Give it a go - your car will look amazing.

Unfortunately it started raining yesterday so I couldn't get any more pics, I'll try and do some more when it has stopped.

Great thread Lewis!!

My issue is with swirl marks.... I go to meets and the car looks mint. Once it goes dark and under street lighting my paintwork looks lie Torville & Dean have had a go on there...

Was going to get the car mopped but this is going to cost me. Is the scratchx that good??

I got some Turtlewax colour magic but I have not really out any weight on when polishing!

H.

Paul, as I understand it the Turtle Wax colour magic is just a colour polish, I don't think it has any cutting compund in it. I await correction though

Mike

Great thread Lewis!!

 

My issue is with swirl marks.... I go to meets and the car looks mint. Once it goes dark and under street lighting my paintwork looks lie Torville & Dean have had a go on there...

 

Was going to get the car mopped but this is going to cost me. Is the scratchx that good??

 

I got some Turtlewax colour magic but I have not really out any weight on when polishing!

 

H.

ScratchX is very good mate, also use a paint cleaner (prior to the scratchX for swirl marks). You will need a lot of elbow grease but it is very effective.

Steer clear of colour magic mate - it's got a bad reputation. Let me know how you get on.

I'm knackered just reading that good work fella will give it a bash when the Sup gets out of hibernation in March/April time.

Mines very lucky if it gets a wax after its wash, let alone a full body massage:blink: i wouldn't give Jennifer Lopez that sort of treatment let alone a car.

Excellent advice Except not practical for a runabout supra that needs washing at least twice a week!! including after work, in the dark and...erm...sometimes in the rain

Hate the winter, even with Pete's super efficient drying cloth I can never get it totally dry enough to put on wax I've found Armourall car wax gel goes on wet when you chamoi'd off most of the water, and is a good inbetweenie, cheap but effective

I've also found Auto Glym bug and tar remover effective

Lx

...even with Pete's super efficient drying cloth I can never get it totally dry enough to put on wax

You're just not trying hard enough - put your back into it!

Sorry... thought thread was about something else

Excellent advice Except not practical for a runabout supra that needs washing at least twice a week!! including after work, in the dark and...erm...sometimes in the rain

Once it's properly prepared and has a few coats of wax on you can remove most of these steps though, the above isn't something you'd need to do on a weekly basis.

A bit of snow foam, power wash, 2 bucket and a dry and all is well.

Hate the winter, even with Pete's super efficient drying cloth I can never get it totally dry enough to put on wax

I found those towels OK but have since discovered some better ones:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/microfibre-cloths/miracle-dryer-ultra-plush-25-x-36-/prod_362.html

A quick spray of quick detailer and a wipe over with one of those and all is well.

Of course you then need to prime the surface ready for wax with some cleanser or suitable alcohol etc

If your car has a lot of swirl marks - then use the meguiars 3 stage polish but in a linear motion not circular as the circular motion will not cover them all.

I alternate polishing methods each time i do it to prevent swirl marks and or lines.

And the meguiars step 3 carnuba wax (more a glaze than wax tbh) is the mutts nuts for that extra shine.

lol at this thread.

I pay a load of Polish slaves to come to my home and polish my car for £14 whilst I sit there drinking stella, reading Top Gear Magazine.

Saying that I will do it all myself if the weather is nice ;0

Is that your car in your avatar Smudger, it looks fab, any bigger pics?

lol at this thread.

I pay a load of Polish slaves to come to my home and polish my car for £14 whilst I sit there drinking stella, reading Top Gear Magazine.

 

Saying that I will do it all myself if the weather is nice ;0

Well done to you, can't beat that lovely swirl effect these cheap wash places achieve.

Well done to you, can't beat that lovely swirl effect these cheap wash places achieve.

PMSL using the bucket of water for cleaning the wheels and bodywork

PMSL using the bucket of water for cleaning the wheels and bodywork

Oops I dropped the sponge again... not to worry, I only get £2.00 an hour and it's not my car...

To be honest 90% of the punters probably don't care or even notice the added paint defects, it scares me when I see I nice car being done though

the business is getting so devalued by these muppets who come in make a quick buck and mess it up for everyone else .

nearly every phone enquiry im getting atm questions my prices , and then compares to the latest local swirl o matic with half a dozen spotty kids attacking anything with wheels on .

i just tell them to go there if they dont think that much of their vehicle.

trouble is theres money available to the owners of these places to set up , as it employes a few kids off the dole , and more often or not , its just a tax fiddle from the other business they own

http://www.kernow-kruz.co.uk/forum/gallery/Mr%20Johns7049144.jpg

http://www.kernow-kruz.co.uk/forum/gallery/Mr%20Johns3273191.jpg

http://www.kernow-kruz.co.uk/forum/gallery/Mr%20Johns2918479.jpg

http://www.kernow-kruz.co.uk/forum/gallery/Mr%20Johns2085281.jpg

Done mine in 2 hours today!

Sorry about the pic size!

has anyone done this with a white supra yet if so whats the finnish like that you get ?

am just on stage 2 polish and looking really good will get some pics up soon

thanks lee